front hub replacement
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Heh... you should see my parts list with all the $$$$'s on it. These aren't cheap vehicles to drive.
I would try a junkyard. If you're near a self-service yard that would be ideal because they just pop right out.
I would try a junkyard. If you're near a self-service yard that would be ideal because they just pop right out.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 17
On the DIY seal tool, I hadn't thought of experience levels - good catch. While I had never worked on that aspect my of rig at the time, I had done them on other vehicles so it was just a different size tool for the same job. Basically I'd done it on other vehicles but not the X so there was experience on my end
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 2,079
Likes: 63
From: Florida and Tennessee
I just did the whole front suspension including the .... hub bearings, new stub shaft u-joints (shafts were good), all new seals, new ball joints, new caster camber adjusters, new steering linkage from the pitman arm to the tie-rod ends, dual Bilstein shocks, dual Fox steering stabilizers. 150K on the clock all original... now new. XRF suspension parts and Timkin unit bearings. Serviced my auto hub assemblies.
Gettin' aligned as we speak.
I made my seal driver from 3" PVC and a block of wood. My '02 are coarse thread. It's all real fresh in my mind so if you have questions... fire away.
Gettin' aligned as we speak.
I made my seal driver from 3" PVC and a block of wood. My '02 are coarse thread. It's all real fresh in my mind so if you have questions... fire away.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 17
While not PVC and wood, this is the one I made for about $15
Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 - Superdutypsd.com
Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 - Superdutypsd.com
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 719
Likes: 4
From: WisCONsin
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 719
Likes: 4
From: WisCONsin
I could NOT Find this part anywhere; they were not made.
Dorman was just coming out with their HUB replacement that is complete and you can find for about $150 ea.
I kept the OEM hubs and put a post out on this forum. Ended up buying a set from a guy that were in need of service. $60 to WI from TX and I had the plastic part I needed.
Pull them all apart and clean/lube/ reassemle and you will have OEM quality hubs!
Dorman was just coming out with their HUB replacement that is complete and you can find for about $150 ea.
I kept the OEM hubs and put a post out on this forum. Ended up buying a set from a guy that were in need of service. $60 to WI from TX and I had the plastic part I needed.
Pull them all apart and clean/lube/ reassemle and you will have OEM quality hubs!
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
OK, all taken apart. New ball joint is. New u-joint on axle shaft. Axle seal installed, with tool. Axle installed with tool. About to install front hub but have a question. I am doing the passenger side. The axle, without the hub has considerable vertical/horizontal play when the u-joint is moved up/down. Is this normal? With it lock up better once the hub and lock are installed. I hate to put it all together only to still have the movement. The driver's side, which I have not touched yet, does not have any play. Thanks for the help
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
All back together and now the groove for the snap ring is not out far enough for the ring to lock it. I installed the seal and the axle using the OTC tool so the depth should be correct. Ideas?
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Yep, I have checked that .. washers good. Thrust with radial grooves facing inward, round metal, hexagon plastic, round metal, then the clip .. but the slot is in too far .. looks to be about the thickness of a washer?