Towing... Need more power.....
First, I have a 99 expedition with 5.4, towing package, 17" factory tires & 3.73 gears. It has 77,000 on it, and just got a tune-up & radiator flush & had a trans oil & filter change at around 60k. My trailer loaded is approx 5000 lbs, and blocks more wind over the top of the exp. On flat ground or down-hill, it rolls at 73-76 mph in O.D. fairly OK. It likes to run 78-82 "power-wise", but I don't feel comfortable there. Problem is, any kind of wind or incline, and it's 3rd gear at 3100 rpm. It sounds like I am running it really hard there, so I back it down to 65-70 mph @ like 2700 rpm. Then, if the hill is bad, when it drops below 66 mph, it drops into 2nd gear at 4000+ rpm! If it had more low-end power, I could leave it in O.D. most of the trip & work it less & get better mileage. I want to run 72/74 mph without revving it to death.
I am familiar with upgrades, and think I am aware of all the ones available for the 5.4 exp. I am looking for more power for towing with simple bolt-ons. I think my best option is to put smaller 16" tires on it (instead of putting 4.1 gears in it) to get the rpm's up in OD. BUT, it seems the 99 exp 5.4 setups can't change the tire/gear info with the "chips" or programmers. So, I am looking at the simple things like:
K&N filter setup,
Programmer (chip),
and ?
Thought if it has to rev 2700+++, then electric fans would take a lot of work off the motor, along with underdrive pulleys. It feels like it makes more power just before it is totally warm, so I am thinking of adding a 180* thermostat too. I'm sure the cat-back systems would help as well, just didn't want to get too noisy or "drone" when cruising.
ANY ideas, thoughts, or input would be greatly appreciated!
Now....the next thing you might try is going to a Magnaflow catback system and a WMS (ceramic coated) cold air intake. I have done both of these and it did make a differance. But please...get that Expy out of overdrive when you pull ( who told you to do that anyway?)
I would not change your thermostat either. This will mess up the emission reading and cause more problems.
In case you want to know................My trailer is a 1998 NASH 20' fully loaded travel trailer. My loaded weight with food, full tanks, firewood, beer, two dogs, extra water, tv set and whatever else my wife brings is around 5100LBS. I never see overdrive untill I unhook. My tach reads anywhere from 2500 to 3700 rpms when I pull the trailer.
good luck
mlaugh
Last edited by mlaugh4; Sep 2, 2003 at 12:38 AM.
Ron
99 Expedition XLT
As for the thermostat causing emissions issues, it can't make it much worse than full throttle most of the trip causing it to run real hot. I didn't plan on a big change there, just a little to help.
Anyone go to electric fans or underdrive pulleys ????
THANKS for the input!
I pull 5160 lbs of 8 wide in the mountains up to 11K ft. My trips usually last two to four weeks and range from 2500 to 7000 miles. I've made all the bolt on changes you can think of and reverted most of them back to stock because they simply didn't make a difference that is acceptable, usually because of fuel cost increase or much louder noise when at full throttle for long periods pulling up mountain passes.
If you want to spend the money, changing the effective rear end final drive ratio is really the most effective way to go whether through tire or gear changes.
The simplest, cheapest and most time effective thing you can do with the stock vehicle is to just let the engine develop it's power by getting used to the increased rpm. Keep the revs up and you can go all day long with out problems. And the slightly increased noise is not near the brain-splitting noise that headers or most flowthrough muffleres will cause under uphill, open throttle conditions for long periods.
Start stressing the overdrive and you will see the tranny heat up and the OD light start flashing, the shifting get erratic and violent.
I learned after a lot of experimentation over the years to just disengage OD when I hookup, period, then all my problems stopped.
Your Triton engine loves revs. You can literaly go for hours on end with it at 4200 rpm. I do it all the time and it shows absolutely no wear, heat or increased oil consumption on my 112K engine. I'd go higher rpm, but it always shifts down when it reaches that point on my '97. (Occasional high revs also creates enough heat to clean your spark plugs, valves, cat converters and mufflers of carbon buildup.)
summary: Save your money and use what you have. Forget about worrying about gas mileage, in the long run it not as as expensive as all the add on goodies plus labor.
Hope this helps.
I also make sure when Im pulling the windows are down, and the AC is off unless im in town. Every little bit helps.
Ron
99 Expedition XLT



