Aerostar shopping

So I was just asking about what to look for when shopping 90's Aerostars with 100-200K miles. Tranny is a known issue. I did find out before that forum vanished that the later ones are less prone to destruct. I also asked how to determine if the AC compressor is dead or if its something else. Someone did reply but I didn't memorize it so if someone else could run me through simple tests (that I will be allowed to run on someone else's van) to narrow down AC issues that would be great.
What kind of mileage can I expect with AWD 4.0?
I drove one last week that the cruise seemed finicky on. At first it didn't work, and then it did. It never turned off on its own but a couple times after I braked it didn't want to reset. I eventually got it to work again and I don't know if it was just me, if the button was fiddly, or if there is a larger problem. Googling shows that some people have had intermittant cruise issues. Is this something to be wary of? Since I drive cross country on my camping trips and get leg pain if I have to pedal it the whole way I definitely need reliable cruise.
How do the AWD versions do on poor (not awful) backroads of Forest Service/BLM lands? My primary use would be camping, and I don't mean in campgrounds. I used to drive my Previa AWD down some pretty nasty roads. I don't expect the Aerostar to be quite as good especially if I get the extended bed, but since thats my main use I would hope it is pretty decent. I think the clearance is a bit less on the Aerostar too.
Thanks for any tips and things to watch out for!
complete A/C system with 2 compressors, and I mean Complete!
power steering pump and rack, (rack is leaking again)
front calipers, disks, bearings
2 ICMs
3 freeze plugs
multiple tune ups(have fun with the rear plugs)
Throttle position sensor
fuel tank
clock spring,,,(that might be your cruise problem)
bumper covers
new windshield
radiator
water pump
alternator
and more,, with more to come.
But the aerostar lovers like me won't give up.
complete A/C system with 2 compressors, and I mean Complete!
power steering pump and rack, (rack is leaking again)
front calipers, disks, bearings
2 ICMs
3 freeze plugs
multiple tune ups(have fun with the rear plugs)
Throttle position sensor
fuel tank
clock spring,,,(that might be your cruise problem)
bumper covers
new windshield
radiator
water pump
alternator
and more,, with more to come.
But the aerostar lovers like me won't give up.
But I don't have a mechanical brain, I need help getting through more involved things like that.
There are the usual maintenance and wear items, but the v6 engine is prone to oil leaks. I've had to replace the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets twice, the front and rear main seals, and the intake manifold gaskets; basically all except the head gaskets.
The AWD feature does not really make the Aerostar an off road vehicle; it was meant to provide better traction on rain or snow covered roads. It only has 1 additional inch of ground clearance over the 2wd models, and its tires are still the tiny 14" types mounted on a 6" wide wheel. But you should have no trouble on most Forestry Service roads.
The other major problem are its tiny brakes that were designed for the original shorties with the 4 cylinder engine. That they kept the same brakes with the extended body, 4 liter v6, and awd, a vehicle that weighs more than 500 pounds more, is criminal.
I've updated mine with 15x7" wheels from a mid-90's Explorer, and some heavy duty brakes from the aftermarket.
The vans with the 4 liter v6 had slightly stronger transmissions than those with smaller engines. Still, these transmissions seem to be weaker than most, though I've never had a problem. But it's best to add an aftermarket cooler to replace one of the stock coolers.
You can see all the gory details of the above here:
https://goo.gl/photos/oUeQfbKaw9ntrg986
There are the usual maintenance and wear items, but the v6 engine is prone to oil leaks. I've had to replace the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets twice, the front and rear main seals, and the intake manifold gaskets; basically all except the head gaskets.
The AWD feature does not really make the Aerostar an off road vehicle; it was meant to provide better traction on rain or snow covered roads. It only has 1 additional inch of ground clearance over the 2wd models, and its tires are still the tiny 14" types mounted on a 6" wide wheel. But you should have no trouble on most Forestry Service roads.
The other major problem are its tiny brakes that were designed for the original shorties with the 4 cylinder engine. That they kept the same brakes with the extended body, 4 liter v6, and awd, a vehicle that weighs more than 500 pounds more, is criminal.
I've updated mine with 15x7" wheels from a mid-90's Explorer, and some heavy duty brakes from the aftermarket.
The vans with the 4 liter v6 had slightly stronger transmissions than those with smaller engines. Still, these transmissions seem to be weaker than most, though I've never had a problem. But it's best to add an aftermarket cooler to replace one of the stock coolers.
You can see all the gory details of the above here:
https://goo.gl/photos/oUeQfbKaw9ntrg986
Oh wow I didnt relize they were all 14" rims. That sucks, but oh well. The Previas I've had are also under-braked, so I may feel right at home lol.
19-20 mpg highway I can live with. I've been reading much worse numbers for them.
What exactly kind of brakes did you install, and was it a simple swap of calipers and pads or did you have to change rotor types or modify anything else?
The 4wd Aerostar is such a low volume car that it's hard to find really good high performance brakes for it. The spindle forms part of the caliper, so it's not possible to install a bigger rotor without major modifications to install a caliper that can accommodate. So my brake upgrades were always new rotors and pads.
A friend referred me to a source at brakeperformance.com, which makes these slotted and dimpled rotors for just about any car you can think of, and they make them for both 2wd and awd Aerostars. As far as I know, they're the only ones who make a dimpled, vs cross-drilled, rotor. The dimpling provides some of the cooling benefits of cross-drilling, without weakening the rotor that cross-drilling does. They also warranty them against warping and cracking for "life", whatever that means. I've had them on my Aerostar and Mustang for just over a year, and they work much better than stock brakes in both cases.
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One 1994; Bought at 52K miles. Now at 188k miles (start having trouble when drive at 40-55 miles speed but at deep accelerate it seems OK)
2 1996: bought at 98K miles. One lasted at 228k miles before the tranny gave away (The Torque converter broke)
The other had a tranny rebuilt at 210K miles, Engine start has the "Tap-Tap" noise, it was !50K miles when purchase.
1997 (130K miles) which will be sold (engine & Tranny still good but the oil-pan damaged by the the previous owner)
All carry full loads of fabric (all the way up to the top of the windows) have traveled up and down WA-CA or CA-TX with out trouble.
All were add trans cooler with filter. Wheels are change to 15"
All are 4.0 AWD, using Synthetic (mobil1 and Amsoil) for all fluids.
Hope it helps,
Mario
the 3.0 liter compressor in my own experience was unreliable, replaced it a number of times, always failed, but the one in my 1997 has been reliable since I bought the van in 2012. I don't know if it is because of the location or if it is a different compressor, but no "black death" with it as it happened with my 1992.
Find a low mileage 1996 or 1997, they are the most reliable mechanically, again, that has been my experience, I have owned Aerostar minivans since June 1986.
If the a/c compressor does not click on/off when system is on, it could be out of gas, or it could be the infamous "black death", in which the entire system is clogged.
If I was you, I would not consider the 4wd, there are no parts for it, and when something breaks, you are on your own.
For interior space, the Aerostar seems more spacious, but not by much. For handling, the stock Previa handled much better than stock Aerostar. However, after upgrading the suspension of the Aerostar, including poly bushings, rear overload springs, heavy duty shocks, and adding a heavy rear anti sway bar, it now handles far, far better than stock. But...still not as responsive handling as the Previa.
Can't tell you whether or not the tranny of the Aerostar is as robust as was the Previa's, but I still have the original with only 112K on it, and it's still okay. I flushed it when I got it and watch that it doesn't overheat. Mine does have an extra tranny cooler on it. When cold, it takes about 3 seconds to engage from Park to Drive, so there may be an issue developing, but I have heard this may continue for tens of thousands of miles and never get any worse. Guess I'll find out on that. The Previa had the highly annoying tranny issue of taking 3 miles for the overdrive lockup to initially engage when outdoor temps are 50F or less. Aerostar much better in that regard. Previa used to pull 1500 lb. trailer fully loaded with no issues. The supercharged engine had tons of torque for pulling. Aerostar not nearly as torquey when pulling the same loaded trailer. Previa's tranny was problem free, as was every other part of the drivetrain, and I drove the bejeebers out of it. After 250K, I did, however, have to replace the accessory driveshaft couplings. This is a common issue for all Previas.
Okay, back to the Aerostar. As you can read in another post, I finally switched the Aerostar from 14" wheels to 15" with 215/70-15 tires. Very big improvement in cargo hauling capacity, plus it restored the speedometer accuracy mostly. With 215/70-14 tires, 60mph speed was actually 57mph. With the 215/70-15 setup, 60mph is actually closer to 61mph.
As for mileage.....the Previa did better by a couple mpg. Last week, I returned from a 2000 mile trip in the Aerostar across the Great Plains and up into the Rocky Mountains. Average mileage for the whole trip was 18.4 mpg. This included about 1500 miles at a steady 70 mph, and the other 500 climbing mountains in lower gears. Otherwise, all around day-to-day mileage seems to hang around 15-17 mpg. I don't complain about the mileage as the Aerostar isn't my daily driver. I use it for hauling bulky cargo, pulling a loaded trailer, or filling it up with 6 passengers on family outings when the sedan is too small. Maybe I can find a way to squeeze another mile or two better gas mileage out of it, but I need to research how to achieve that before simply trying one thing or another to make it happen.
Both Aerostar and Previa are difficult to find in decent shape, due to age. Both ceased production in 1997...twenty years ago! At that age, if you find a well cared for example of either, keep in mind that due to age alone, you will likely be replacing some component parts most anytime. As for major mechanicals, if it has been well maintained, there are many reports on this forum, if you continue good maintenance routine, of Aerostars lasting well in excess of 200K miles problem free. Like with any other vehicle, following a good maintenance routine pays off. If one only does maintenance when problems begin to appear....expect more and more of them closer in between. I doubt an Aerostar would be an exception to this either....
Mileage is 18-20 average, mine is a 4.0 AWD extended. I run KYB shocks and Hellman Sway bar, polyurethane suspension components up front. Currently less then 53K, show room condition.
Last edited by 96Aerostar; Jun 11, 2017 at 05:42 PM. Reason: omission
AWD is night-and-day better scooting around a traffic roundabout. The '89 and '93 would push (understeer) badly, but with AWD while I get a lot of body lean -- which I do not mind -- it will pretty much go where I want it in a tight low-speed corner.
1997 got the best drivedrain -- including five forward gears on the 4.0l versions ONLY -- but the cheapest interior of all years. '97 also lost the rear amber turn signals and got completely different wiring back there, making it trailer-compatible without a converter, but I do miss the amber turns.
1997 got all-electric cruise control; all other years have a vacuum unit.
1996-97 got OBDII, though a very quirky early version. Use ForScan (free app for PC and iPhone (and maybe Android)) to correctly read STFT and LTFT; no other app or box seems to know how to read fuel trims on early Fords, until '98. If you like OBDII vs flash codes, you want a '96 or '97.
'96-97 have 134a refrigerant

AWD transfer cases have proven reliable. Mine was run out of oil for thousands of miles and still worked fine; the chain started slipping in reverse (clunk, clunk) and that's when I found it had only a tablespoon of lube. Bought a brand-new transfer case from eBay for $400 shipped, changed it out in an afternoon.
I don't find the ride quite as soft/compliant on the AWD as my old 2WD versions, but it's still quite good.
Something to look out for: coolant. Vintage Fords, esp. the Aero, must have the coolant changed out every couple of years. I've fought lots of cooling system issues on my used Aeros due to no coolant changes. Lots of heater cores and radiators and casting plugs.
Mileage:
1989 3.0l shorty XLT with 4.10 Trak-Loc rear: 21
1993 3.0l ext. XLT with 3.73 open diff: 19-20
1997 4.0l ext XLT with 3.73: 17-18 (towing 4k lbs + = 13-14)
Note that the AWD is full-time AWD. It distributes more or less evenly the torque. If front or rear slippage is detected, an electrically-locked clutch in the transfer case is engaged for a few seconds and then released. It's designed to get you out of a slippery spot, but it's not an off-road warrior.
The early AWD (1990-91?) use cross-joints on the front half-shafts; the later ones have true CV joints. I don't know as there's a lot of pros/cons for this application of one over the other.
I like Michelins and they don't make a 14" tire with 93 rating anymore, so I went with '94 Explorer 15" wheels last year, and it's great upgrade.
HTH












