Rear spring hangars
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
I bought a ranger that was missing the shackles and brackets completely. The only part of the bracket left was the part held on by the rivets. Lucky the springs didn't go through the bed after driving it like that for about a month.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
If you plan on having the truck another 20 years, sandblast the OEM paint off. Then drill a drink hole in the bottom of the rear hanger and coat them with some POR15 or the like
Front hangers use 1/2" bolts, rears use 7/16"
Front hangers use 1/2" bolts, rears use 7/16"
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 96
Likes: 3
Yup, might as well remove and replace. Picked my rears up from Bronco Grave Yard. They have non-OEM for a whole lot less cash...
1980-1997 Ford Bronco and F-Series OEM Rear Spring Hanger-Broncograveyard.com
1980-1997 Ford Bronco and F-Series OEM Rear Spring Hanger-Broncograveyard.com
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 856
Likes: 3
From: Livonia, MI
thechief66 - I agree with most everyone else here that those hangars are perfectly fine. The reason you haven't sold any in 15 years as a Ford parts guy is because they are still fine. I can tell you that all Ford trucks of this era look like that underneath - unless they have been sand blasted and repainted - and they are just fine.
Having said that, it is your truck, you're the one driving it, and if you feel they are unsafe, then that's the end of it - they are unsafe. Even if it's just for piece of mind, it's worth it to you to replace them. They are relatively easy to remove and replace, and as in most repairs, getting the old stuff off is the hardest part. a couple of the rivets are herd to get at, but with the right tools, shouldn't take you too long. BTW, the new ones come with a bolt kit, so you shouldn't have to buy bolts for it. good luck!
Having said that, it is your truck, you're the one driving it, and if you feel they are unsafe, then that's the end of it - they are unsafe. Even if it's just for piece of mind, it's worth it to you to replace them. They are relatively easy to remove and replace, and as in most repairs, getting the old stuff off is the hardest part. a couple of the rivets are herd to get at, but with the right tools, shouldn't take you too long. BTW, the new ones come with a bolt kit, so you shouldn't have to buy bolts for it. good luck!
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 979
Likes: 40
From: Colorado Springs CO
I have the FSM, but thanks for posting that anyway.
This truck has been my DD since 2001, and I also tow a travel trailer that weighs about 9000 lbs loaded, so just ignoring this is not an option.
To those of you that have actually done this job-is it best to remove the leaf spring entirely? I'm thinking that taking the extra few minutes to undo the u bolts and getting the spring out of the way would be time well spent...
This truck has been my DD since 2001, and I also tow a travel trailer that weighs about 9000 lbs loaded, so just ignoring this is not an option.
To those of you that have actually done this job-is it best to remove the leaf spring entirely? I'm thinking that taking the extra few minutes to undo the u bolts and getting the spring out of the way would be time well spent...
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
I have the FSM, but thanks for posting that anyway.
This truck has been my DD since 2001, and I also tow a travel trailer that weighs about 9000 lbs loaded, so just ignoring this is not an option.
To those of you that have actually done this job-is it best to remove the leaf spring entirely? I'm thinking that taking the extra few minutes to undo the u bolts and getting the spring out of the way would be time well spent...
This truck has been my DD since 2001, and I also tow a travel trailer that weighs about 9000 lbs loaded, so just ignoring this is not an option.
To those of you that have actually done this job-is it best to remove the leaf spring entirely? I'm thinking that taking the extra few minutes to undo the u bolts and getting the spring out of the way would be time well spent...
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
If you have access to a good air chisel, you won't have to grind the heads off(work hard at getting into those little areas). Cut them with the chisel(wear lots of hearing protection) and it will go quicker then grinding.
I still use the air chisel I bought from JC Whitney 30 sum years back. It just won't quit.
I still use the air chisel I bought from JC Whitney 30 sum years back. It just won't quit.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
I have the FSM, but thanks for posting that anyway.
This truck has been my DD since 2001, and I also tow a travel trailer that weighs about 9000 lbs loaded, so just ignoring this is not an option.
To those of you that have actually done this job-is it best to remove the leaf spring entirely? I'm thinking that taking the extra few minutes to undo the u bolts and getting the spring out of the way would be time well spent...
This truck has been my DD since 2001, and I also tow a travel trailer that weighs about 9000 lbs loaded, so just ignoring this is not an option.
To those of you that have actually done this job-is it best to remove the leaf spring entirely? I'm thinking that taking the extra few minutes to undo the u bolts and getting the spring out of the way would be time well spent...
The HARDEST part about the whole job will be removing the bolt from the spring eye. they LOVE to seize in there. Maybe in CO it is not much of an issue but Out here, I typically just cut the spring hangers off the frame and throw the springs and hangers right in the scrap pile. God know that the 20 year old leaf sings are worn out just like the hangers are rusted
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 219
Likes: 1
The HARDEST part about the whole job will be removing the bolt from the spring eye. they LOVE to seize in there. Maybe in CO it is not much of an issue but Out here, I typically just cut the spring hangers off the frame and throw the springs and hangers right in the scrap pile. God know that the 20 year old leaf sings are worn out just like the hangers are rusted
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,542
Likes: 22
From: Murphysboro, IL
When I replaced the rear hanger on my F 250 I took the bed off as I was also replacing a fuel tank and fuel lines. With the bed off it was about a 10 minute job, I lifted the rear end by the hitch with a front end loader till the tires were just off the ground, cut the rivet heads off with a grinder, popped the stubs of the rivets out through the frame, removed the bolt through the spring, replaced all the associated parts, put one bolt in place, used a drift pin on two others and the fourth one slipped right into place.
It literally took my longer to get tools out or put tools away than it did to changed the hanger.
It literally took my longer to get tools out or put tools away than it did to changed the hanger.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 97,551
Likes: 2,004
From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Both of my 92 F150 reg cab rear spring hangers were completely rusted through. I replaced them with hangers from the local Ford dealer as I didn`t to wait for having ones shipped here.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: South Jordan, Utah
[QUOTE=Diesel_Brad;17122184]If you plan on having the truck another 20 years, sandblast the OEM paint off. Then drill a drink hole in the bottom of the rear hanger and coat them with some POR15 or the like
Glad you said this Brad. Exactly what I have in mind for everything I can reach.
Glad you said this Brad. Exactly what I have in mind for everything I can reach.