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I'm not familiar with a 352, especially one from 86. But I've seen intake manifolds that have a different shape then the carburetors that mount to them, and they need the EGR plate to line up. My 77 460 is that way. If you pulled the EGR, there could be some stuff left open:
* The back of the heads
* The plenum
* The vacuum from EGR to carb
Anyway, check all the vacuum sources: the nipples on the carb and the trees on the manifold. You only need a few:
1) PCV from the valve cover to the carb
2) Auto trans
3) Brake booster
Cap off everything else for testing. Check any caps and hoses that are already in place for cracks or breaks
Once everything is buttoned-up, try again
I made sure everything was good when I pulled the egr diaphragm and plate off. The only vacuum coming from egr was built in plate so it shouldn't be an issue. Only thing I was concerned about was what appeared to be an exuast vent hole from the manifold that the egr plate took care, I just sealed the hole. Carb fits just fine without egr plate.
I will definitely plug up all none essential holes and give it a try tommorow. I really appreciate the advice.
the only other problem I can think of is the dizzy. But it isn't acting up really. The rotor turns just fine now and has no slack sine I've changed the chain and gears.
Just for grins I'd want to verify the distributor is lined up correctly. You did say you replaced timing chain and gears?
At TDC compression stroke #1 cylinder (front passenger side) the distributor rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug wire terminal.
After I changed the Chain and gears I reset the dizzy so the #1 plug on the dizzy cap was facing towards the fan and radiator. Seemed a little easier to deal with it in that position.
After I changed the Chain and gears I reset the dizzy so the #1 plug on the dizzy cap was facing towards the fan and radiator. Seemed a little easier to deal with it in that position.
Whoa-that's way off! The rotor, when on #1, should be at roughly 2 o'clock when viewing from the front. The vacuum canister might be pointing forward.
You're ignition timing might appear "correct", but it's on the wrong cylinder
I guess I read your post different than Tedster did. Of course it shouldn't matter where #1 is, as long as they're in the correct order. I don't know what you're firing order is, as we still don't know which engine you actually have. Just remember, the rotor goes counter-clockwise.
Last edited by PapaBearYuma; 04-15-2017 at 11:17 PM.
Reason: A different understanding...
Whoa-that's way off! The rotor, when on #1, should be at roughly 2 o'clock when viewing from the front. The vacuum canister might be pointing forward.
You're ignition timing might appear "correct", but it's on the wrong cylinder
I guess I read your post different than Tedster did. Of course it shouldn't matter where #1 is, as long as they're in the correct order. I don't know what you're firing order is, as we still don't know which engine you actually have. Just remember, the rotor goes counter-clockwise.
The order is engraved right on my intake manifold, and believe me I've rechecked it a million times haha. And yes it's going counter clockwise.
The firing order is FE if my memory serves me right. Orientation of the dizzy DOES matter for the vacuum can placement/orientation.
so your saying #1 needs to be at 2 o'clock to relieve proper vacuum? I thought the only vacuum going through dizzy was through the diaphragm. Excuse my lack of knowledge. Bought this pickup as my first project vehicle, so I still have quite a bit of learning left
The body or housing of the distributor vacuum can itself has to have enough clearance (when setting the timing advance) back and forth without hitting something.
so your saying #1 needs to be at 2 o'clock to relieve proper vacuum? I thought the only vacuum going through dizzy was through the diaphragm. Excuse my lack of knowledge. Bought this pickup as my first project vehicle, so I still have quite a bit of learning left
Sort of. The orientation needs to be correct in order to set the timing in order to achieve the correct vacuum. It all works together. A tooth or two off one way or the other on the dizzy isn't too big of a deal. Actually, I'd rather be two teeth off counter clockwise so I have more room to advance the timing. The vacuum can COULD either be on the intake or on/at the hose from the water pump to the intake.
Last month I was driving back from the dump and the engine started misfiring and dieing out. Seemed fine as long as I was going about 45mph. Got it back home and it wouldn't start. It cranks but will not start. I've replaced the timing chain and gears (100% correctly), dizzy cap, spark cables, spark plugs,rotor and I'm still getting no start. It acts like it really wants to bUT it just won't go. Rotor in dizzy is turning just fine and points are getting plenty of spark(gap is good as well). Ignition coil is getting 12v both sides. I pulled the carb out and took a look at it, Dosent appear to have an clogs and seems like it's functioning just fine. I reinstalled it and put fresh gas in while also disconnecting fuel pump and placing it in gas can and I'm still having no luck.
Any troubleshooting advice is greatly appreciated. Starting to pull my hair out and I really need my pickup to run lol
turns out it was a faulty condensor of all things XD
04-15-2017, 11:46 AM
