Test IAC
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thank you, i also just hooked it directly to the battery and nothing. again thank you. be warned i probably will be back because i think i have more than one issue. have a great day and thanks again y'all.
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I'mmmmmm baaaaaaack......lol. Ok i replaced the tabp and it made some difference but i apparently have other issues as i suspected. I started the truck after tabp installation and didnt realise i had the map unplugged,truck idled a little rough but not horrible and had good acceleration in neautral,when i plugged the map in the idle started surging up and down again. Whether map is plugged in or unplugged the truck runs rich.
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From: Virginia
I would study up and re-hook up the scan tool connection. You really don't need the connector or the scan tool, just get the wires sorted out to the proper color and make sure you put wire nuts or something on them so they don't short out.
I will see if I can figure out the wiring colors for you.
I will see if I can figure out the wiring colors for you.
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From: Virginia
The big connector is on page 62 in this link.
Electronic Engine Control - ???Gary's Garagemahal
Here's how to run the test/scan.
EEC IV Self Test hookup
Looks like you need to hook your testlight or meter to the tan/red wire. Like I said the other end will go to the battery +.
Your single wire connector (white/red) will be jumped to the black/white wire to start the scan codes.
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Ok the wires laying there that i thought originally went to test plug are in reality wires added in by a previous owner possibly for some add on or trailer brake controller thats long gone. All i have on drivers side inner fender/firewall is fuel pump relay and the small plug for scanning. I also found that the green plastic vacuum line to egr was broken, repaired it but no difference.
Last edited by Outlawsquirrel; Apr 22, 2017 at 11:28 AM. Reason: incomplete
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Ok feelin real stupid now, found the scan plug on the passenger side fenderwell buries in all the wires from solenoid, been lookin on drivers side where most older fords are located, feel free to slap me. I will now try to test.
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From: Virginia
Good. You really need to get familiar with this so you can let the computer talk to you. Sometimes it tells you right away something it doesn't like and that ends up being the problem, and other times you have to read between the lines to find the real problem. Or sometimes it doesn't think there is a problem at all, but it should be one of the first things to check when you are troubleshooting
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I'm back, been under the weather and the weather has sucked besides. I borrowed an autoxray ez-scan 6000 and hooked it up, KO/EO has no codes just 11 system pass........KO/ER shows code 41 (no exhaust gas oxygen switching detected-always indicating lean) and a code 13 (cannot control rpm low during selftest or idle speed control inoperative) Ant thoughts or what is my next step?
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From: Virginia
Either you have a vacuum leak, or your oxygen sensor is bad. Have you ever replaced it? Code 13 indicates the computer is having trouble controlling the idle speed, which verifies your IAC is having a problem.
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I have checked for vacuum leaks but will sure check again, when you start the truck after i replaced the tabp it idles on initial startup but then starts the up and down idle and eventually dies, i assumed the code 13 appeared because i had to use the accelerator to keep it running while doing the test but i have never changed the oxygen sensor. And the raw fuel smell is very strong the last couple times i started it.
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Rechecked for vacuum leaks using throttle body spray, rescanned it and KO/EO-code 11........memory code-system pass........KO/ER gives the same codes 13 and 41. Should i change O2 sensor or is there a way to test it?
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Any suggestions?