DIY for cheaper soundproofing & or this guide can be used to gain access to rear speakers.

-On a 2003 F-250XLT Crew Cab

Tools needed.
Rachet with torques bits
10mm socket
Frost King Ducting Insulation About 18$ a roll at Homedepot
Roller (Highly Recommended)
Scissors or razor blade.
Windex & Rags

I did this for sound deadening but it also helps to insulate the cab better.
I used Front King as a cheaper alternative to something like Dynamat. I've done this in all 4 doors & was amazed at how actually well it works at deadening sound, so I'm slowly doing the rest of the truck.



Step 1
Remove the 3 anchors from the rear cab wall.
Believe its a torques T45


Step 2
Remove the backseat tool tray. 3 10mm long bolts.


Step 3
Remove the seat belt bolt torques bolt. (Lift up plastic cover to gain access.)
Believe its a T47 or T50?

Step 4
Remove the plastic seat belt insert as seen below.


Step 5
Remove door kick plate by gently prying up on it.

Step 6
Remove rubber door seal from around door.

Step 7
Remove the door speaker panel covering. I found the easiest way to do it was gently & firmly pulling right below the speaker vent from the bottom first to the top.
Picture for referencing where the clips are below.


NOTE TOP RIGHT IS A PUSH INSERT CLIP.


Step 8
Remove 4 push insert clips holding back panel onto cab.


Step 9
Thoroughly clean any dust or dirt so the adhesive has a clean surface to stick to. I used Windex as it has ammonia in it so it dries faster.
DO NOT RECOMMEND MINERAL SPIRITS, takes a lot longer for that stronger smell to dissipate.


Step 10
Lay out insulation.
I started from the top down. Also make a mental note of where the 3 anchor locations are so you can poke holes for the torques bolts to go through.
This stuff is pretty forgiving and easy to work with.
Just firmly press or roll down the adhesive to firmly stick it on.
I got pretty good with cutting it with scissors for all the smaller locations.

DO NOT COVER CAB VENTS, red arrows in picture.


Three bolt hole locations for anchors below.


Step 11
Reverse steps for re-assembly.
NOTE-You can use spray adhesive or some type of glue if you want to hold the door seal in better if you choose to.
I didn't as it stays in place on my truck pretty well, & I plan on removing this again to do rear speaker replacements.

Bonus Pictures of door insulation!

 

was it worth it ?

 

Did you do any mass damping?

 

I honestly haven even driven the truck yet. But if my previous doors are any indication, than yes its going to be worth it. I'd like to state that I was really amazed at the difference with just my doors.

Also to each his own. Was it worth it to me? Absolutely, it was dirt cheap compared to Dynamat, which I have purchased in the past.

I'm honestly not even sure what you mean? Like more of it on the floor & roof? No not yet.

 

any way to get pics to show up....?

 

It says "This person moved or deleted this image." I don't blame them. Photobucket sucks terrible.