1952 F1 build - "Dallas"
#61
#62
It should not be doing that. How much can you move the shaft inside the bellhousing (with the clutch fork on it) in and out? Usually when there is excess movement outside, it is because the clutch fork fingers have gotten spread out. See this old thread:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16371087
#63
#64
I have been following your post and things are looking pretty good. I have a question for you if I may. Do you know if a F1 and a F3 has the same chassis? I'm building a M3 which is the same as a F3 and I want to do a IFS and was wondering if they were the same. would you measure your chassis at the point where the front axial is located for me. Right now i'm working on the front fenders, this truck was on a farm in Canada and they were pretty rusted out.
Thanks looks great
Don
Thanks looks great
Don
#65
Don, you should bump your old thread if you want more info on the M2.
Jonathan, I would say that's end of life on the fork. I would worry that with some frame twisting (around a corner or whatever) the equalizer could pop out of the frame pivot. Easier now.... Getting the rivet out of the fork is no fun, either.
Jonathan, I would say that's end of life on the fork. I would worry that with some frame twisting (around a corner or whatever) the equalizer could pop out of the frame pivot. Easier now.... Getting the rivet out of the fork is no fun, either.
#66
#67
Grind both ends of the rivet, get a long punch and reach with it thru the inspection port to knock the rivet out. Mine was TIGHT.
The bushings are very thin-walled, would be hard to drive in and almost certainly would need to be reamed or honed to size after replacing. Whether you need new bushings or shaft depends entirely on whether the PO(s) ever greased them. It isn't a precision fit, but you obviously don't want outright slop. Mine was cherry, considering how much use it gets.
edit -- I'm surprised your fork fingers are 2-1/8" apart, yet you have that much clearance. I wonder if you have the wrong release hub, maybe one for a car?
The bushings are very thin-walled, would be hard to drive in and almost certainly would need to be reamed or honed to size after replacing. Whether you need new bushings or shaft depends entirely on whether the PO(s) ever greased them. It isn't a precision fit, but you obviously don't want outright slop. Mine was cherry, considering how much use it gets.
edit -- I'm surprised your fork fingers are 2-1/8" apart, yet you have that much clearance. I wonder if you have the wrong release hub, maybe one for a car?
#68
I don't know Ross, I think the trans came from a truck but not totally sure. It's got all new parts inside correct for a truck and appears correct for a truck, but who knows if the release hub was just slapped on it or not. Keep in mind that measurement was eyeballing from outside the inspection cover from 6" away, which I am sure introduces room for error.
I ordered all NOS parts today to fix it, shaft, fork, hub, bushings, and pin.
Was thinking on the way home maybe if I froze the bushings and heated the case with a shop lamp they would press in easier?
JB
I ordered all NOS parts today to fix it, shaft, fork, hub, bushings, and pin.
Was thinking on the way home maybe if I froze the bushings and heated the case with a shop lamp they would press in easier?
JB
#69
#70
#72
#74
Took the trans off this afternoon and removed the old clutch fork and shaft. Installed new bushings after freezing them using a piece of all thread/nut/washer combo. Reamed them ever so slightly for good shaft rotation and popped in a new fork that fit perfectly on the hub. Now the equalizer shaft sits nicely on the bushings and up against the rubber washer. Thank you Ross for the diagnosis.
JB
JB