1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1952 F1 build - "Dallas"

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  #61  
Old 10-07-2017, 07:43 PM
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Installed the clutch pedal lever with new bronze bearings, seal, and spring. It operates nicely but I am a little worried about the fitment of the lever on the pivot. It seats well but then pulls away about an 1/8th when the clutch is depressed.

 
  #62  
Old 10-07-2017, 11:38 PM
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It should not be doing that. How much can you move the shaft inside the bellhousing (with the clutch fork on it) in and out? Usually when there is excess movement outside, it is because the clutch fork fingers have gotten spread out. See this old thread:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16371087
 
  #63  
Old 10-08-2017, 04:38 PM
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Thanks Ross, I took a photo through the inspection cover and the fork looked like it was about 2 1/8 wide at the top but the fingers definitely have play against the hub. Looks like I am taking the trans back out for fork replacement?

 
  #64  
Old 10-08-2017, 06:18 PM
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I have been following your post and things are looking pretty good. I have a question for you if I may. Do you know if a F1 and a F3 has the same chassis? I'm building a M3 which is the same as a F3 and I want to do a IFS and was wondering if they were the same. would you measure your chassis at the point where the front axial is located for me. Right now i'm working on the front fenders, this truck was on a farm in Canada and they were pretty rusted out.
Thanks looks great
Don
 
  #65  
Old 10-08-2017, 06:52 PM
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Don, you should bump your old thread if you want more info on the M2.

Jonathan, I would say that's end of life on the fork. I would worry that with some frame twisting (around a corner or whatever) the equalizer could pop out of the frame pivot. Easier now.... Getting the rivet out of the fork is no fun, either.
 
  #66  
Old 10-08-2017, 07:00 PM
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Any tips on the fork rivet? My initial thoughts since I am replacing the fork, was to replace the bushings, and so while at it install a new shaft. So I think one option would be to just cut it?

JB
 
  #67  
Old 10-08-2017, 07:21 PM
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Grind both ends of the rivet, get a long punch and reach with it thru the inspection port to knock the rivet out. Mine was TIGHT.

The bushings are very thin-walled, would be hard to drive in and almost certainly would need to be reamed or honed to size after replacing. Whether you need new bushings or shaft depends entirely on whether the PO(s) ever greased them. It isn't a precision fit, but you obviously don't want outright slop. Mine was cherry, considering how much use it gets.

edit -- I'm surprised your fork fingers are 2-1/8" apart, yet you have that much clearance. I wonder if you have the wrong release hub, maybe one for a car?
 
  #68  
Old 10-09-2017, 06:21 PM
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I don't know Ross, I think the trans came from a truck but not totally sure. It's got all new parts inside correct for a truck and appears correct for a truck, but who knows if the release hub was just slapped on it or not. Keep in mind that measurement was eyeballing from outside the inspection cover from 6" away, which I am sure introduces room for error.

I ordered all NOS parts today to fix it, shaft, fork, hub, bushings, and pin.

Was thinking on the way home maybe if I froze the bushings and heated the case with a shop lamp they would press in easier?

JB
 
  #69  
Old 10-09-2017, 06:31 PM
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OK, I got to thinking later that a Car release hub would be a real sloppy fit on the front bearing retainer. Cars used a 1-1/16" input shaft vs. the 1-3/8" on trucks.

Yes, heating/cooling will help a lot. Gotta work quickly, and line up the grease hole.
 
  #70  
Old 10-16-2017, 06:38 PM
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Clutch release shaft and fork are here, plan on tackling that this coming weekend.

Tonight I repiped the oil line and added the tee at the canister for the sender. This solved my clearance issues on the shifter and I can shift and hit all gears.


 
  #71  
Old 10-16-2017, 09:00 PM
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Looks great!
 
  #72  
Old 10-16-2017, 09:19 PM
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You have a restrictor in the line somewhere, right?
 
  #73  
Old 10-17-2017, 06:28 AM
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Yes, the tee has a restrictor on the inlet side of the fitting.
 
  #74  
Old 10-22-2017, 08:08 PM
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Took the trans off this afternoon and removed the old clutch fork and shaft. Installed new bushings after freezing them using a piece of all thread/nut/washer combo. Reamed them ever so slightly for good shaft rotation and popped in a new fork that fit perfectly on the hub. Now the equalizer shaft sits nicely on the bushings and up against the rubber washer. Thank you Ross for the diagnosis.

JB
 
  #75  
Old 10-23-2017, 06:11 AM
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Here are a few pics showing the orientation....I couldn't get them to post last night.

JB


 


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