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no I haven't. When I connected it all together, with a pin in the fork, I was able to press on the clutch for a brief moment before it popped out of the socket.
The whole clutch box appeared to move? Maybe that's the issue?
OK, well it looks like that is the correct part, even if it is worn, with the spring and shims it should not have that much of a gap. The arm from there to the clutch is the same part for the F1 thru F6, so that should not be the problem, so perhaps it's time to step back and look at the overall picture.
1. Are the holes in the frame for this bracket elongated at all?
2. Is there another set of holes there, could the bracket have been moved?
3. Is the transmission crossmember correct and properly mounted?
4. Are the motor mounts correct (original) and properly located? (Engine/transmission offset?)
5. Is the frame bent anywhere?
Yep it appears that the engine and gearbox are slightly off center, 1/4" or more. I see two engine mountson the right and left front, then a crossmemeber support that appears to be where the gearbox is mounted, maybe 8 bolts.
Does anyone have any suggests to moving it all over to the left (driver side) a little distance? Any more mounts U missed?
ok, I've removed the transmission. And I'm not sure what adjustments to make. The previous owner said the fork needed adjustment.
I can slide the fork down, taking up the slop, and given more of it on the side of the equalizer shaft? The parts look correct.
Then do I need to adjust the other clutch components?
I have the manual. Thoughts on the pics.
I should probably pull the fly wheel housing to check the pressure plate in addition.
The issues I have are:
1.) clutch stabilizer bar fall off the ball socket during clutch use.
2.) I move the ball socket out 1/2 inch and the clutch peddle pushed all the way in did not engage the clutch.
There is no adjustment on the fork, not sure why you would want to "move it down"? Do not adjust the 3 pressure plate fingers.
Look at the fork's fingers where they connect to the release bearing hub. Is there side-to-side play? Are the fingers clipped into the hub? From the marks on the fork shaft, it appears the shaft can move sideways at least an inch?
There is no adjustment on the fork, not sure why you would want to "move it down"? Do not adjust the 3 pressure plate fingers.
Look at the fork's fingers where they connect to the release bearing hub. Is there side-to-side play? Are the fingers clipped into the hub? From the marks on the fork shaft, it appears the shaft can move sideways at least an inch?
I should have been clearer. It appears to get the clutch release shaft to meet up with the ball socket I need to loose the fork on it and slide it further down. If not the shaft will fall off (see video and posts). I believe it is one piece with the ford secured it via a couple bolts/screws.
That should solve my sloppy clutch equalizer bar.
Shouldn't the fork be centered around the hub/release bearing? There is play since the release shaft moves back and forth.
I hope I'm explaining this correctly. Any pics that would help?
I'm confused by your saying "move it DOWN". The fork is pinned to the shaft running across the front of the trans. Your problem is too much left-to-right movement of the shaft, how would moving it down help? (if it were even possible).
There should be very little left-to-right movement possible with the fork engaged with the release hub.
Turn the shaft so the release hub moves all the way forward (or just pull the hub forward), and take a picture of the fit between the fork's fingers and the hub.
I guess I was hoping that the fork was able to be disconnected and moved on the clutch release shaft.
I guess not? But I need the release shaft to move over another (close to) 1/2". Or something to make it go over
So I've created a copy videos, I hope this helps. This is new to me. Thanx for your help.
OK, you've found the problem. ("clutch1.avi") The fork's fingers are spread out. You shouldn't have more than 1/8 - 1/4" of in-out movement. Disconnect the spring from the release hub, and pull the release bearing and hub off the trans. Take a picture of your fork fingers.
The worst of it is getting the old one out. On your trans, not so hard. You take the 6 nuts off that connect the bellhousing to the trans, and pull the bellhousing off the trans. Working thru the hole at the bottom of the back face of the BH, grind off the end of the pin that holds the fork to the shaft. It is peened over, you need to grind it flush to the fork surface. Then take a 1/8" punch (a good one) and drive the pin out. It will help to have a second pair of hands to keep the fork from rotating and hold the BH in position. Once the pin is out, draw the shaft out. "Assembly is the reverse".
03-14-2016, 07:31 PM
