Yes, it is a strange feeling holding the wrench with one hand and inserting the feeler gauge between the valve and the rocker while everything is jumping. This method is so much easier if you have the later one piece adjuster. I used to have a special tool for working with the two piece adjuster but it disappeared.

The adjustment method that Dennis suggested is pretty darn accurate when you consider the threads are constant. I believe that method is described in depth on Mummert's or some other expert Y block site.

 

And you need the feeler gauges with the angle on them so you don't burn your hand on the exhaust manifold.

 

They are handy to have when needed. I wouldn't take it back, fwiw. The 1/4 turn method was first described afaik, by Walt Nuckels, an old timer. It's archived on the web. It's easy, quick, and often more accurate than using a feeler gauge.

Whatever method used, the important thing is to make sure the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe. If you make four 90° marks on the damper, it's easiest (for me) to do both valves at TDC compression, starting with the #1 cylinder and continue on in firing order. Set the first 2 valves, rotate damper 1/4 turn, set two more, 1/4 turn, etc, 15486372

Hopping around to exhaust valve on 6 and then a half turn and intake on 3 etc, 3/4 turn and then do 1 intake and 7 ex. just gives me a headache. Try it using the feeler gauge method and see what you think, see how it runs. Valve lash makes a big difference on how it runs. The 1/4 turn method has the advantage of allowing or taking up for wear or clearance in the valve train parts.

Tighten the adjuster so there is no clearance, but the pushrod will still spin with your fingers, then back off exactly 1/4 turn. Plenty close enough to .019", and they will all be consistent. You should notice smooooth idle and good low end torque.

 

I agree with Ray that it's not particularly useful for setting crank position for valve adjustment. But your solenoid has 3 terminals, you can see the small one down below the big ones in your picture (lower arrow) and the wire going to it (upper arrow)

 

Your right , Ross! It was hiding behind the wires. Thanks.

Ted, the shop manual says the intake lash is .016 and the exhaust is .018 hot for a 54 239.

Thanks, guys!

 

I've seen some YT videos of folks adjusting the valve lash with engine running. Looks pretty crazed to me. I think the trick is to get idled down slow, but it still looks like a PITA ta me.

One thing too is getting a good "feel" for a feeler gauge. Use .016" set on the micrometer and see how much drag .016" is on the feeler gauge blade of the same size to get an idea.

Another trick, is to set a couple valves cold, and then measure again the clearance when hot. The difference, is the offset in thousandths required in the future for setting valves when cold, to account for expansion. Setting valve lash hot, or running, just isn't necessary or desirable imo.

Remember, .016", .018" and .019" are VERY fine measurements, the whole point of using the 1/4 turn technique with solid lifters is due to the fact that the rocker arm faces (by now) are likely well worn, consequently a flat feeler gauge will result in a very inaccurate setting.

Using your calibrated elbow as a guide, set the intake and exhaust valves to something less than 1/4 turn (.019") as necessary for your application, and you'll be very, very close. Too loose just bangs the hell out of the entire valve train, too tight will burn valves.

 

After 54 they opened the spec to .019 on the Y's, WHY? Only a guess on my part but they may have experienced problems with burnt valves? The wider the gap the longer the valve is in contact with the seat and more time to transfer the heat, just my theory..

 

Abe, the 1/4 turn from snug seems to be an accepted way to adjust the valves on these things. If I ever get another Y block or have chance to work on another, I do believe I will use that procedure. It certainly sounds like it is a proven method and,,,,,,,,,,very simple. Tedster makes a good point about component wear.
I really don't think a thousandth here or there will make much difference in your truck, the way you use it.
Edit: If you have a valve loose, you'll hear it and can make adjustments. If you have a tight valve, you will not hear it, the valve will burn. A vacuum gauge will indicate a tight valve that is leaking if you catch it in time. This is why I usually run a vacuum gauge on my older vehicles.

 

Very very interesting, guys. I think there is too much valve noise, so I may use less than 1\4 turn.

Thanks Ray, Jim, and Ted.

 

I experimented a little with different valve lash settings, if the valvetrain is silent they are almost certainly lashed too tight. The manifold vacuum at idle will drop off considerable, check prior to adjustment and verify after is a good check. Just about anything we do to these engines as part of maintenance or tuneup whether ignition timing or carburetor adjustment or valve lash etc., will tend to increase overall manifold vacuum, not lower it.

When they are set correctly a Y block has been described as sounding like a "quiet typewriter", I suppose that's about right. They aren't a rattlefest but, if they aren't making noise....

 

Did they incorporate valve rotators then? They need sloppier lash to work properly. They did the same on flatheads, without rotators lash was intake .010 to .012" / exhaust .014 to .017", with rotators lash is set to intake .013 to .015", exhaust .017 to .019".

PS there is almost no difference in valve noise non-rotator vs rotators. Abe, if your valves were noisy it was likely that they were way out of spec, or there is wear in the rockers.

 

I am sure there is wear in the rockers. Even if the rockers were replaced in 79 when the engine was rebuilt that still makes them 38 years old and who knows how many miles on them. I think I read that they are self rotating in the Yblocks.

So better to make some noise than no noise at all.

 

Just got back to this thread. Yeah, I was also thinking you were trying to install a 'remote from inside the house' starter. What you were wanting to attach is what we call a thumper switch. :-) Most of the time I just put the truck in 2nd or 3rd gear (make sure the ignition is OFF and it's parked on a level surface) and nudge it back or forth with my knee, etc. to turn the engine.

 

Ted, When I could hear, I always thought the valves on a Y block sounded so sweet, the allure of that engine.

Think about it Ross, the valves in the flatheads are down deep in the engine, surrounded by lots of iron where the valve clearance in the Y block is covered by a thin sheet of "tin".

 

Abe,
I don't know what you did with your remote starter button, (that is what they have been called by myself and every mechanic I have know for 40 years) but it will work on your truck without issues. No leads go to ground. One goes to the any constant power source and the other goes to the small terminal on your solenoid. When pushed it powers the solenoid bypassing the need to use the key. Make sure your in neutral (if manual trans) and the key off so the truck wont start when trying to bump it over.