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System air conditioned

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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 02:40 PM
  #1  
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System air conditioned

Hello I write from Italy.
I have same problem with A/C with my econoline 150 4.9L year 1993.
I don't know the quantity of refrigerant and after i installed a new compressor but the pulley noise equally.
Some person can help me.
Thank's
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 02:47 PM
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My 96 E350 takes about 3.5lbs. The tensioner is often the source of a lot of the squealing...
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 03:11 PM
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Hi... the tensioner pulley is new.... the noise start to A/C pulley..
The problem is the magnetic pulley,because if i turn offerte A/C The noise finish
Your A/C system is with rear A/C ?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 03:32 PM
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No, it doesn't have rear air.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 04:09 PM
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I bet the compressor is bad
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 09:39 PM
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did you add compressor oil to the system when you changed the compressor?

Did you adjust the clutch air gap to the pulley?

If the air gap is too wide the clutch slip on the pulley when AC is on.

If the air gap is too close the clutch will drag against the pulley when AC is off.

Air gap for 1988 e150 with E6DH or FS6 compressor.
0.021 to 0.036
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 11:25 PM
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Hello, I have not added oil to the compressor system...
How i can adjust the clutch air gap to the pulley?
But is possible that the clutch air gap to the pulley in new compressor i must to adjust?
Thank's
Ivan
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 12:51 AM
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Correct amount of oil is very important. Type of compressor oil is very important.
Not enough oil or the wrong oil will cause the compressor to fail.

First look on this page and tell us which compressor you have.
1993 FORD E-150 4.9L L6 A/C Compressor | RockAuto

Does the compressor make noise with the engine running and the AC turned off or only when the AC is on?
Do you have front and rear AC?
What type of refrigerant are you using?
What type of refrigerant was in the old system?
What was wrong with the old compressor?

Did you flush out the old system before installing the new compressor?
Did you install a new dryer?
Did you install a new orifice tube?

Did your new compressor come with instructions?

I changed my compressor last year.
The instructions said to pour the oil out of the ""OLD"" compressor and measure how much oil was inside it.

The instructions said to pour the oil out of the ""NEW"" compressor and measure how much oil was inside it from the factory.

You want to put the same amount of oil in the new compressor that was in the old compressor.

this is the instructions that came with my new compressor. My van is a 1988 E150 but your van may have the same compressor.
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 01:26 AM
  #9  
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The model now install isFOUR SEASONS 58110
I have front and rear ac
After are R12 and now R134
The orifice i have only cleanI have not change a dryer because i don't find The same hose with dryer for my van
I have flush The hose
The Old compressor I change because i buy The van and The Old parts i prefere change,now i installed the Old compressor and i see that clutch noise... but the compressor running ok.
Today i verify and put oil if is necessary,if The noise go way The problem is oil... if don't go way i don't know where is the problem....
Thank'you for help ...🔝🔝
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 01:31 AM
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Sorry
but the oil capacity is 4 pounds.... 4 pounds are 1.8 liter... so much oil i have put inside?
thank's
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Superbrig
Sorry
but the oil capacity is 4 pounds.... 4 pounds are 1.8 liter... so much oil i have put inside?
thank's
NO

Lets start over..

I understand the ac was working and you just wanted to change the old parts to new parts. This is good. If the old compressor was bad then you would have trash in the system.

If you change from R12 to R134 you need a different oil.
R12 uses mineral oil.
If R134 conversion you need POE oil. POE oil. POE oil is compatible with the remaining mineral oil.

If every part was new and there was no old mineral oil in the system you would use PAG oil with the R134
PAG oil is not compatible with mineral oil

Did the new compressor have instructions or a label telling you what type of oil was in the new compressor?

It is very important to know what type of oil was in the new compressor.
My new compressor had mineral oil in it from the factory.

You should always change the dryer/accumulator. If it is the original factory ford part then it may be designed for R12 and you will need to replace it with one for R134.
If you replace the accumulator, you need to pour out the oil that is in side of the old accumulator and measure it. Then add the same amount of new oil into the new accumulator plus 2 ounces, or 60 ML more.

If the AC system had refrigerant in it when you took it apart then you will already have oil in the other parts. You will only need to measure the oil in the old compressor and make sure you have the same amount in the new compressor.

The compressor oil is measured in ounces or ML.
You should only need 3 to 5 ounces. 85 to 142ML.

For front and rear AC you need to add 4 and 1/2 pounds of refrigerant. That is 2.04117 kilograms.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 03:09 AM
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I am trying to find a video to show you how to adjust the air gap but I have not found a video showing your type of compressor.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 03:34 AM
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Ok...
I put oil but the noise are present ugually.
I want change a pulley from new compressor to Old compressor but i see that is necessary a extractor... you say where i buy a extractor?
The refrigerant entry very slow...for put 2 kg offerte refrigerant is very difficult..
now I do some verify...
is possible to attach a video in my tread?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 03:41 AM
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First before you remove anything you need to check and see what the air gap is.
For your compressor the gap should be 0.021 to 0.036 US. Sorry I do not know how to convert that to metric. You adjust the air gap by adding or removing shims/ washers under the clutch plate.
Start this video at 10:06 and it will show you how to check the air gap. You will see the washer i mentioned


If you need to adjust the air gap maybe this will help.
Your compressor clutch should look something like this one. It may be a little different.


There is a nut in the center that holds the clutch on. You will need to remove the nut.

Once the nut is off you need to remove the front clutch hub. You may need a puller to remove it. Here in the US you can rent one at the parts stores.

Once you have the clutch plate off you will have a key way and some flat washers.
The flat washers are actually the shims / spacers you use to adjust the air gap. When you take the front clutch plate off, the shims / spacers may be down inside the clutch plate shaft hole. The new compressor should have came with a set of shims. If it did not then you may find them at a parts store. There is also a key that you do not want to loose.
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You do not need to take the pulley off, only the front clutch plate. Once off it should look close to this.
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To close the air gap remove a spacer. To widen the air gap add a spacer. If you have a spacer kit they should be several different thickness spacers to choose from.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2017 | 03:46 AM
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The tool you will need looks like this
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Here in the USA you can rent them from a the car parts stores.

But before you do anything check the air gap so see if it is within specifications
 
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