System air conditioned
I repl;aced every part of my AC system last year.
My new Ford compressor makes the same noise but not so loud.
Something is not right.
You could have a bad compressor or oil problems.
You could have a restriction in the system causing high pressure.
A compressor pulley bearing can make simular noise, but you tried the new one and said it makes the same noise.
I do not think it is the compressor pulley bearing.
Belt tension pulley can make simular noise. When AC compressor is on it puts more tension on the belt tensioner.
I do not think it is the belt tensioner.
Wrong air gap can cause noise. You should check the air gap.
I do not think it is the air gap but you should check it.
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I think you may have oil problems.
There are 3 different compressor oils.
Mineral oil used with r12 systems.
IF you use mineral oil and R134a the oil will not blend with the R134a and will not lubricate the compressor.
Polyolester oil (POE oil) used when converting from R12 to R134 because it mixes with the mineral oil left in the system. It also mixes with the R134.
Polyalkylene Glycol oil (PAG oil) is used in NEW R134a systems. It does not mix with Mineral oil.
If you use PAG oil when converting from R12 to R134a the mineral oil will separate and not lubricate the compressor.
What type of compressor oil did you use?
Did you drain all of the oil out of the compressor and measure it?
Did you vacuum the system before you added refrigerant?
I am not a professional air conditioning person. I just read my service manual and ask many questions when I replaced my system.
You may want to post your question and video here. This forum has some professional AC people there.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum61/
Air gap for 1988 e150 with E6DH or FS6 compressor.
0.021 to 0.036 Try to use the lowest gap as the clutch will wear over time.
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How to remove the compressor clutch hub to adjust the air gap.
There is a nut holding the clutch hub onto the compressor shaft. You will need to remove the nut.
You may need to hold the clutch hub to keep it from turning while you remove the retaining nut.
I used this tool but you may be able to use a different tool. Just do not damage the clutch hub.
Once the nut is removed you will need a tool to remove the clutch hub from the compressor shaft. Do not pry the clutch hub off because it may damage it.
I used a tool like this one.
Ford used a couple of different clutches. They may look like this.
Once you have the clutch hub off you will find some spacer/ washers and a key way.
Remove one of the spacer/washers and reinstall the clutch hub onto the compressor shaft.
Tighten the clutch hub back up with the retaining nut and check the air gap again.
The washer/spacers vary in thickness. You may have to adjust the air gap more then once by using different spacer/washers.
Once you have the correct air gap tighten the retaining nut to 12 to 20NM or 10 to 14 ft lbs.
i have another question.... i read a thread and so i don't understand if The part if i attach photo is different for circuit whith R12 and R134.
Thank's
R12
Company = MOTORCRAFT part #YH513 {#E35H19E561AA, E35Y19E561A}
Company = FOUR SEASONS part # 35960
Turns off at 25.5 PSI
Turns on at 43.5 PSI
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R134a
I do not know ford part number
Company = FOUR SEASONS part #36676
Company = Murry Part #36676
Turns off at 26 PSI
Turns on at 42 PSI
R12
Company = MOTORCRAFT part #YH513 {#E35H19E561AA, E35Y19E561A}
Company = FOUR SEASONS part # 35960
Turns off at 25.5 PSI
Turns on at 43.5 PSI
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-
R134a
I do not know ford part number
Company = FOUR SEASONS part #36676
Company = Murry Part #36676
Turns off at 26 PSI
Turns on at 42 PSI







