Hi there, brand new to the site. Just picked up this 1947 ford 3/4 ton long box (wish it was a shorty) for $800 bucks delivered with a cool gas tank & some old tongue & groove wood for the bed. Its complete besides the tailgate (anybody got one for sale in the MN area?). Does not run and hasn't for 3 years (so he says)

Anyways, My plan is to get it running and driving "as is" for as cheap as possible. Im a college student with no cash. The patinas fuxin sweet. I want to stay under $1500 ish for the build.

I have a few basic knowledge questions to start:

First the motor: it has a straight 6 and 6 volt. best place to start getting it running? and what should i know when converting to a 12 volt?

wheels: i heard these are split rims are no good. but i can't find replacements that fit the bolt pattern and the big *** hub. I just want steelies with (maybe) white walls. Whats the best route? lug conversion? anybody know wheels that would fit? its a 5 lug by 7 bolt pattern & needs a good sized hole in the middle.

Lowering: whats the best route? flip the shackles?

lastly: Like i said i just want to get it running and driving for $1500 or under. let me know of any details i should know about the truck/build or references i should know about.

Thanks in advanced! its communities like this that keep rodding alive & information flowing...post pictures of your fav 47 fords if you don't mind

 

First of all, welcome to this site. There's quite a few of the 1 ton trucks here. Second, what you have is what Ford called a Tonner. Its a 1 ton truck, there were no 3/4 ton trucks from '43-'47. The tailgate, it's going to be hard to find in good shape, quite a few guys here need them, but they are out there.
For the 12 volt conversion you'll need resistors (aka Runtz) for the gauges, a 12 volt battery, bulbs, coil, starter solenoid, regulator, and either a 12V generator or alternator. Search the site, you'll find lots of great info on doing it. Now for lowering your truck, it's not as easy as flipping shackles. You'll need to determine how low you want it. You can remove a few leaves from the springs, of course that will reduce your payload limits, you can get a dropped I beam for the front as they are the same axle as the half ton. I don't think anybody makes lowering springs for the 1 tons, they would have to be custom, which would eat away at the $1500 budget quick.
Wheels, sorry to say, your out of luck I believe, it's an odd pattern. But Stu will be along soon, I'm sure, and he is a god when it comes to these wheels and I'm sure he can impart some wisdom.
Good luck on your truck, looks like the start of a great mild rod you're building!

 

Cool beans. If you just want to get it running on a budget, you could save a little money (and I think you'll need to) keeping the 6 volt system at least for now. It works fine. It will if you restore the electrical system anyway. Here's a discussion on the HAMB after someone asked if anyone still uses 6 volt system.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...ystem.1056046/

Learn how and why to make 6 volts work, and you'll be way ahead of the game. Need good solid grounds and 1/0 cables, and a Big *** 6 volt battery &c. Generators are stone knives and bearskin tech, but easily rebuilt for little money. Just one man's opinion. It's your truck.

Tires, Brakes, lines, hoses, etc, bearings, steering linkage, king pins, and suspension "should" be the focus, start from the ground up. Whoa is just as important as go. There will be PLENTY to keep you busy there and soak up $$$.

Reprints of the Ford Shop Manual either paper or on CD are available for not too much money. Nod your head yes, you want a copy. MoToRs Repair manuals are also really good. Say 1950 edition. Trust Me. These are your go to pubs for these beasts. You'll have to learn this stuff yourself because nobody will hardly be able to help you, their eyes will glaze over at the parts store, the computers only go back to 1985, if that.

 

Good project truck! Nice to see you have a pretty complete one to start with sans the tailgate. I ditto the comments by 46fordtruck. Are you keeping the 6 cylinder? If so, the 6 volt system works pretty well if you take the time to go through and check/clean/service everything - starter, generator, regulator, wiring etc. I have the G series 6 cylinder in my '46 tonner and have no problems with the 6 Volt system. Your '47 might have the H series 6 cylinder. Easy way to tell is to see if distributor is on the side or front of the engine. Side = late '47 H, front = early '47 & earlier years G series. The biggest problem that most have is replacing the battery cables with newer ones that are too small. NAPA has battery cables for farm tractors that work great and are as large as or larger than the originals. They are copper, too and not that expensive. As for the wheels, they are an odd bolt pattern as mentioned above. They are actually great wheels if you don't mind the original look. Many that want to change the wheels do so by changing the axles to get a more common bolt pattern. Brake parts for the rear axle are almost non existent and drums are no longer available if yours are in bad shape. Did you get any hub caps with the truck? Those can be hard to find. And tires are sometimes a challenge, too. These trucks usually have 6.50, 7.00 or 7.50 x 17" tires and there are very few options for new replacement tires. And the few available are pretty pricey. Most of us on here watch for good used ones. If you decide you don't want the wheels or change the axles, be sure to let us know as there are usually several of us watching for them. To give you a target, to get my grandpa's '46 tonner going after sitting for over 45 years, I spent close to $6500. Parts for the G series engine are rare and expensive. Not much better for the H. Cost included a total overhaul of the engine and going through all of the brakes, suspension, steering, electrical including complete wire harness, radiator and mechanicals. I did most of the labor myself including assembling the engine after machine work was completed and all of the labor on the rest of the systems. Cost did not include any body work or paint. The truck has its original patina and only a new seat cover and floor mat in the inside. The bed was a flatbed with grain box. I replaced the bed planks and found a good used grain box off another '47 truck. I probably would not have spent the $$ that I did on this '46, but my grandpa bought it new just after WWII. And I got it running for my dad's 90th birthday. Riding in it with my dad and my son and grandson = Priceless!

 

'47 is still the G series 6. The H was introduced very late in '47. There is the possibility that there were some '47 trucks got the H, but most feel it's doubtful. Of course, the H is an easy bolt in.

 

Thanks 46fordtruck! I knew the change was right in there somewhere. For some reason, I have seen a couple of 47's with the H. Looked at one just last week. Maybe someone replaced the original G's with H's.

 

Welcome to FTE and congrats on an interesting truck. I know the half tons bring more money but I like the larger pickups better.

First, post pictures of the engine so we know if it is a G series (distributor in front driven directly off the cam) or an H series (typical post distributor on the side of the motor). Originally your truck came from the factory with a G motor but this many years later it is better not to assume.

Next, what is the condition of the drive train? Big issues can cost big if you are in a hurry. Is the engine locked up? Are any components missing?

If the engine looks like it will run, check fluids in the engine AND transmission before trying to start it. As soon as it looks like the engine is a runner, stop. Do the brakes, wheel bearings, steering, and any electrical necessary for safe operation. Then do the gas tank and engine tune up. We can help with details as you work through things.

A few thoughts: lowering kits, white walls, etc can eat a lot of money. I suggest getting it driving with decent used black walls at the stock height and enjoy it for a year or two. That way you get a feel for the truck before any big changes.

$1,500 is not much budget. I hope that the clutch, brake drums & linings, wheel bearings, radiator, gas tank, etc are in good shape. You are going to be doing all the work yourself.

 

Thanks for the replies

no components missing that i know of, full drivetrain, slides through the gears, break pedal does go to the floor so not sure what that tells me yet. engines hard to turn but is free. Ill post a few engine pics tonight- its dark out but may be enough to get some info from. i suppose ill stay with the 6 volt for now.

 

 

You have the G Series 6 cylinder. Good to hear the engine turns. Take some time to clean dirt from around the spark plugs and spray liberally with a penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or AeroKroil. Let them soak quite a while before trying to remove them. We can help you as you go through the process to get it running.

 

When was the last time they made batteries like that? That's an OLD battery ain't it? Wonder when it ran last.

 

The ignition coil has been relocated from it's original position and an electric fuel pump was used in place of the original mechanical one. I see the tell tale add-on block heater to help engines start in those wicked cold temps in the north.

 

Looks pretty complete except the air cleaner. I hope you got the air cleaner. The six has a different air horn diameter than the more common V8 carbs and air cleaners. Keeping the air cleaner on helps keep moisture out of the motor, reducing the chance the motor will lock up. Most of the old stuck motors I have seen were either missing the air cleaner or the whole carburetor.

 

That appears to be an 8 volt battery, too! Someone attempted to bump up the starting boost from the original 6 volt.

 

You have a great truck there. I am one of the guys mentioned that prefers the heavy pickups with 8' beds. I hope you are a resourceful guy if it's gonna be safe going down the road for 1500.00 . Tires, brakes, lighting, insurance, etc, before whitewalls or lowering. I typically add a couple of leaves to my tonners because the springs are old and saggy and I want them to sit 'way up firm and high'. Just don't take it all apart. Fix one thing at a time and learn as you go! Welcome to the madness and good luck!