Charging issues
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OK. Let me see if I have this right.
1. Have the regulator plug disconnected from the regulator.
2. Jumper A and F.
3. Start the vehicle.
4. Connect the probes to prospective battery terminals.
Does that cover it?
It's raining buckets outside today so I can't do it today. Hopefully tomorrow.
Thanks!!
1. Have the regulator plug disconnected from the regulator.
2. Jumper A and F.
3. Start the vehicle.
4. Connect the probes to prospective battery terminals.
Does that cover it?
It's raining buckets outside today so I can't do it today. Hopefully tomorrow.
Thanks!!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, that's it, although you won't want to run it very long since the voltage may go fairly high w/o a regulator and you don't want to damage anything. So, I would disconnect the regulator, connect the voltmeter, start it, and then jumper A to F briefly while watching the voltmeter.
But, it might be easier to install the new regulator and, hopefully, the problem will go away. However, if you are wanting to return the regulator then you shouldn't plug it in or they probably won't take it back.
But, it might be easier to install the new regulator and, hopefully, the problem will go away. However, if you are wanting to return the regulator then you shouldn't plug it in or they probably won't take it back.
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Understood!
Thanks a bunch, Gary!!
Thanks a bunch, Gary!!
Yes, that's it, although you won't want to run it very long since the voltage may go fairly high w/o a regulator and you don't want to damage anything. So, I would disconnect the regulator, connect the voltmeter, start it, and then jumper A to F briefly while watching the voltmeter.
But, it might be easier to install the new regulator and, hopefully, the problem will go away. However, if you are wanting to return the regulator then you shouldn't plug it in or they probably won't take it back.
But, it might be easier to install the new regulator and, hopefully, the problem will go away. However, if you are wanting to return the regulator then you shouldn't plug it in or they probably won't take it back.
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Received the new regulator yesterday. I put it is. Voltmeter readings are as follows:
Readings as follows:
650 = 14.58
1000 = 14.61
1500 = 14.60
2000 = 14.60
2500 = 13.32 and continuous dropping of volts (not sure if this is good or bad)
Have not yet performed the tests Gary recommends. Will do so when it's sunny out (pretty cold outside today) for the sake of learning as well to ensure things are as they should be.
Thanks to Vinny and Gary for all of the help!
Readings as follows:
650 = 14.58
1000 = 14.61
1500 = 14.60
2000 = 14.60
2500 = 13.32 and continuous dropping of volts (not sure if this is good or bad)
Have not yet performed the tests Gary recommends. Will do so when it's sunny out (pretty cold outside today) for the sake of learning as well to ensure things are as they should be.
Thanks to Vinny and Gary for all of the help!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Well, it is not good that the voltage is dropping, although something may have changed that I'm not thinking about. If it were me I'd monitor the voltage and not do those tests if the voltage comes back to 14+ volts any time you are much above idle. But, if the voltage comes down below that, and especially if it is headed back to 12.8 then I'd run those tests as something is wrong.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
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I always like to stress the importance of fully charging the battery before electrical troubleshooting. In the real world, though, I'm as guilty as the next guy. Typically the only time anybody ever checks the alternator output is when the charging system is misbehaving, the battery is already low, and you're stranded or nearly so. Basically, you can do some ballpark troubleshooting with a low battery, but for the most accurate results, charge the battery first.
Also, if not comfortable doing the detailed electrical tests on the alternator and regulator, you can take them to any good parts store and have them bench tested. This will rule out everything but external faults such as wiring and bad grounds.
FWIW, I've always consider the alternator and regulator as one unit that just happens to be separated by about two feet. I'm probably wasting my money, but if one component has failed, I change them as a set.
Lead Driver
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Clarification please. Was 13.32v as low as the reading dropped? Or did it keep dropping, and if so, how low?
Have you run a ground jumper to the base of the voltage regulator? A bad ground here is a common problem and can cause all sorts of charging issues.
Have you run a ground jumper to the base of the voltage regulator? A bad ground here is a common problem and can cause all sorts of charging issues.
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Thanks for your replies!
The voltage keeps dropping rapidly when at 2,000 rpms.
Yes, there is a good ground from the base of the regulator to the negative battery terminal.
The voltage keeps dropping rapidly when at 2,000 rpms.
Yes, there is a good ground from the base of the regulator to the negative battery terminal.
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I agree, Gary. I’ll monitor it for a time and see what develops. Thanks!!
Well, it is not good that the voltage is dropping, although something may have changed that I'm not thinking about. If it were me I'd monitor the voltage and not do those tests if the voltage comes back to 14+ volts any time you are much above idle. But, if the voltage comes down below that, and especially if it is headed back to 12.8 then I'd run those tests as something is wrong.
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