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Bump steer with 2" leveling kit

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Old Apr 3, 2017 | 12:45 PM
  #1  
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Bump steer with 2" leveling kit

I know this has been addressed on here before, but I haven't been able to find anything that works to correct my bump steer. I have a Ready Lift style leveling kit installed with the exception of the shock extenders. (It's not Ready lift brand that I know of. It's just one I had laying around the shop from a 2013 f-350). I put it on my '17 F-250 platinum. I even installed the spc 23228 caster bushings and track bar re locator bracket. If anyone has any more ideas please help me out before I do something drastic like going back to completely stock suspension.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2017 | 02:54 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Wirelineman79
I know this has been addressed on here before, but I haven't been able to find anything that works to correct my bump steer. I have a Ready Lift style leveling kit installed with the exception of the shock extenders. (It's not Ready lift brand that I know of. It's just one I had laying around the shop from a 2013 f-350). I put it on my '17 F-250 platinum. I even installed the spc 23228 caster bushings and track bar re locator bracket. If anyone has any more ideas please help me out before I do something drastic like going back to completely stock suspension.
The issue is likely not enough positive caster. I just went through the exact same thing in my 2016 F350 SRW. With 2.5" leveling coils and SPC 2.3 degree bushings I was at 1.8/1.9 positive caster. Added Carli Radius arms and gained another 1 degree of caster. Still didnt drive very well. Steering felt very light and truck seemed to wander side to side in the lane. Bump steer was bad as well. Have Carli adjustable track bar as well.

Added an Icon dual stabilizer. Helped the bumpsteer but still was very light steering and wandered. Finally realized I still need more caster for it to drive right, but I already had the max bushings. Decided to go with the lowered radius arm mount brackets that PMF sells. They are not drop brackets as they require you to remove the entire bracket from the frame and install theirs. It lowers the rear of the radius arms 2.5" and of course repositions the front tires in the wheel well. Never did get it realigned, but it drives perfect now.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2017 | 03:23 PM
  #3  
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kylant
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Originally Posted by Wirelineman79
I know this has been addressed on here before, but I haven't been able to find anything that works to correct my bump steer. I have a Ready Lift style leveling kit installed with the exception of the shock extenders. (It's not Ready lift brand that I know of. It's just one I had laying around the shop from a 2013 f-350). I put it on my '17 F-250 platinum. I even installed the spc 23228 caster bushings and track bar re locator bracket. If anyone has any more ideas please help me out before I do something drastic like going back to completely stock suspension.

I talked to Carli, Dan said it is the nature of these trucks, they will have some bump steer. Adjustable track bar and better stabilizers will make it better, but not take it away.

I bet the carli caster bushings we have put the caster near 4*
 
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Old Apr 3, 2017 | 03:24 PM
  #4  
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kylant
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Originally Posted by skanj0
The issue is likely not enough positive caster. I just went through the exact same thing in my 2016 F350 SRW. With 2.5" leveling coils and SPC 2.3 degree bushings I was at 1.8/1.9 positive caster. Added Carli Radius arms and gained another 1 degree of caster. Still didnt drive very well. Steering felt very light and truck seemed to wander side to side in the lane. Bump steer was bad as well. Have Carli adjustable track bar as well.

Added an Icon dual stabilizer. Helped the bumpsteer but still was very light steering and wandered. Finally realized I still need more caster for it to drive right, but I already had the max bushings. Decided to go with the lowered radius arm mount brackets that PMF sells. They are not drop brackets as they require you to remove the entire bracket from the frame and install theirs. It lowers the rear of the radius arms 2.5" and of course repositions the front tires in the wheel well. Never did get it realigned, but it drives perfect now.
the ’16 and earlier trucks are different than the ‘17s.
the ’17 factory radius arms have more caster built into them.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2017 | 02:27 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Wirelineman79
I know this has been addressed on here before, but I haven't been able to find anything that works to correct my bump steer. I have a Ready Lift style leveling kit installed with the exception of the shock extenders. (It's not Ready lift brand that I know of. It's just one I had laying around the shop from a 2013 f-350). I put it on my '17 F-250 platinum. I even installed the spc 23228 caster bushings and track bar re locator bracket. If anyone has any more ideas please help me out before I do something drastic like going back to completely stock suspension.
My 2016 has a 2", two friends had the ready lift 2.5" and putting a duel steering stablizer kit fixed all 3 with the bad wheel feed back and made the steering a lot better. ( not so soft ) open comp makes a really nice kit at an affordable $$
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 05:58 PM
  #6  
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jwc410
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I have a 2" leveling kit with an adjustable track bar and I am noticing the same feeling I have 3.6 and 3.9 degrees of caster. So I just ordered a dual stabilizer, I really hope this corrects the problem, because if not it will be going back to stock. I am also asking for some guidance.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 05:59 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by jwc410
I have a 2" leveling kit with an adjustable track bar and I am noticing the same feeling I have 3.6 and 3.9 degrees of caster. So I just ordered a dual stabilizer, I really hope this corrects the problem, because if not it will be going back to stock. I am also asking for some guidance.
Let me know how the stabilizer works for you. I'm thinking about trying one myself.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 06:55 PM
  #8  
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From: North of Salt Lake City
Originally Posted by jwc410
I have a 2" leveling kit with an adjustable track bar and I am noticing the same feeling I have 3.6 and 3.9 degrees of caster. So I just ordered a dual stabilizer, I really hope this corrects the problem, because if not it will be going back to stock. I am also asking for some guidance.
This is good information (or bad in your case) that removes lack of caster as a contributor to the wobble. Yes, the stabilizer will dampen it just fine but if the bump steer is caused by something else (track bar bushing, ball joints, etc) it will return when the stabilizers wear out. It could be that not a single one of the components is out of spec but if each of them are just barely in spec, the entire system can be out of spec. It's called stacked tolerances where the sum of the total is greater than what the designers intended.

If you want to trouble shoot a little on your own, crawl under the front of the truck while it's running and have someone you trust turn the steering wheel left and right. Put your hand over the trac bar ends and feel for excessive motion. A tiny bit is ok but an eighth of an inch is too much and is a place to look more closely.

And while you're looking for stabilizers, make sure you select from among the mono-tube designs only. It will work in the horizontal orientation where the other designs wear out quickly.

I dealt with this on my 2011 for several years until I replaced the trac bar and a ball joint which finally solved the problem enough. Just a thought.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 07:21 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by EpicCowlick
This is good information (or bad in your case) that removes lack of caster as a contributor to the wobble. Yes, the stabilizer will dampen it just fine but if the bump steer is caused by something else (track bar bushing, ball joints, etc) it will return when the stabilizers wear out. It could be that not a single one of the components is out of spec but if each of them are just barely in spec, the entire system can be out of spec. It's called stacked tolerances where the sum of the total is greater than what the designers intended.

If you want to trouble shoot a little on your own, crawl under the front of the truck while it's running and have someone you trust turn the steering wheel left and right. Put your hand over the trac bar ends and feel for excessive motion. A tiny bit is ok but an eighth of an inch is too much and is a place to look more closely.

And while you're looking for stabilizers, make sure you select from among the mono-tube designs only. It will work in the horizontal orientation where the other designs wear out quickly.

I dealt with this on my 2011 for several years until I replaced the trac bar and a ball joint which finally solved the problem enough. Just a thought.
Good info. Thanks man.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 07:30 PM
  #10  
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jwc410
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From: West Newton, PA
Originally Posted by EpicCowlick
This is good information (or bad in your case) that removes lack of caster as a contributor to the wobble. Yes, the stabilizer will dampen it just fine but if the bump steer is caused by something else (track bar bushing, ball joints, etc) it will return when the stabilizers wear out. It could be that not a single one of the components is out of spec but if each of them are just barely in spec, the entire system can be out of spec. It's called stacked tolerances where the sum of the total is greater than what the designers intended.

If you want to trouble shoot a little on your own, crawl under the front of the truck while it's running and have someone you trust turn the steering wheel left and right. Put your hand over the trac bar ends and feel for excessive motion. A tiny bit is ok but an eighth of an inch is too much and is a place to look more closely.

And while you're looking for stabilizers, make sure you select from among the mono-tube designs only. It will work in the horizontal orientation where the other designs wear out quickly.

I dealt with this on my 2011 for several years until I replaced the trac bar and a ball joint which finally solved the problem enough. Just a thought.
I agree Epic, but considering there is only 1000 miles on the truck, I can rule out things being worn, and I probably only have 200 miles on it since the leveling kit. I also have heim joints at each end of the track bar. The truck turns fine, the steering just feels "light" going straight and then I get a little steering wheel "shake" on rougher roads or interstates, it seems to be more noticeable at higher speeds. I will check out the truck as you suggested just to double check things.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 10:19 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jwc410
I agree Epic, but considering there is only 1000 miles on the truck, I can rule out things being worn, and I probably only have 200 miles on it since the leveling kit. I also have heim joints at each end of the track bar. The truck turns fine, the steering just feels "light" going straight and then I get a little steering wheel "shake" on rougher roads or interstates, it seems to be more noticeable at higher speeds. I will check out the truck as you suggested just to double check things.
The thing to keep in mind is that just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. I'm pretty convinced that I had a part on my brand new 2011 that was either bad on delivery or almost bad. When I leveled it and put larger tires on it, the very small margin for error on the bad part was exceeded and manifested as bump steer or wobble until i figured it out. I'm not saying this is your case but offering a possibility to consider. There is no need for bumpsteer to happen so it must be something else.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2017 | 03:28 AM
  #12  
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Whew,

I'm glad I like my stock truck!
 
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 11:55 AM
  #13  
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jwc410
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From: West Newton, PA
Originally Posted by EpicCowlick
The thing to keep in mind is that just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. I'm pretty convinced that I had a part on my brand new 2011 that was either bad on delivery or almost bad. When I leveled it and put larger tires on it, the very small margin for error on the bad part was exceeded and manifested as bump steer or wobble until i figured it out. I'm not saying this is your case but offering a possibility to consider. There is no need for bumpsteer to happen so it must be something else.
Thanks Epic,

i think I figured out my issue. The one lock for the axle side hiem joint was loose and was allowing the track bar to rotate a little. I tightened the lock nut and the track bar is ridge, took the truck for a ride and it seems good now. I am still planning on installing the dual stabilizer thou.

thanks

joe
 
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Old Apr 12, 2017 | 02:30 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by jwc410
Thanks Epic,

i think I figured out my issue. The one lock for the axle side hiem joint was loose and was allowing the track bar to rotate a little. I tightened the lock nut and the track bar is ridge, took the truck for a ride and it seems good now. I am still planning on installing the dual stabilizer thou.

thanks

joe
That's great news Joe. It can literally be ANY part or joint in the system and sounds like you found it. The thing that makes it so hard is that it only takes a small amount of movement to cause the wobble. It's hard to find and exponentially harder if there is more than one source. Great job.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2017 | 07:52 AM
  #15  
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jwc410
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From: West Newton, PA
Originally Posted by Wirelineman79
Let me know how the stabilizer works for you. I'm thinking about trying one myself.
I finally received my dual steering stabilizer. It makes the steering feel tighter and more controlled when hitting small road bumps. My major issue as stated above with resolved with the track bar.
 
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