3g conversion what to do with the A wire
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3g conversion what to do with the A wire
Got the 3g conversion kit but i dont kno wether to tie the A wire from regulator into the old A wire (which is bigger) or loop it to alternator post? If i tie it into the old A wire will HOT up the 2 charging wires im not using?
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From: Angier, NC
What was it a picture of?
What are you working on year & motor may help.
Also have you searched in the links above for how this it done?
Let me see if I can find it in my saved links.
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
Here's a diagram. The "A" is the feedback sense wire for the internal regulator of the newer alternator. You can loop it around and have it work ok. Or you can run it over and tie it to the large terminal on the starter solenoid that goes to the battery +. That is where the original "A" wire on your truck went, the external regulator system you had works the same way.
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I did search and people do it both ways. In my harness i cant tell if i hook up the yellow a wire back up to the old A wire in the existing harness if it will back feed the old charging wires im not using. Im installing a cable that came with kit.
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Oh and its and 86 f350 460. It has an ammeter too so fors anyone kno an easu way to bypass the ammeter?
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From: Virginia
You had better be using the original red/lightgreen wire that went on your original regulator.
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From: Angier, NC
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Im going to loop it around to be safe. The wiring in my truck is not as straight forward as the diagrams ive found. The green/red wire is there and i am going to hook it up as its supposed to be, but my truck has an ameter and i really dont want to burn it down. Is there a way to bypass the ameter or an easy key-on 12v source i can use (in the meantime) to run the truck. I plan on getting the ameter changed to volt meter at some piont.
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From: Northeast, OK
I would try to help but I don't know what truck you have. Please put it in your sig so I don't have to look around for it. You can bypass the ammeter by jumpering the shunt shown here (Charge & Power Distribution - Gasoline Engines - ???Gary's Garagemahal) with a 10 gauge wire from Splice 203 to Splice 202.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I would try to help but I don't know what truck you have. Please put it in your sig so I don't have to look around for it. You can bypass the ammeter by jumpering the shunt shown here (Charge & Power Distribution - Gasoline Engines - ???Gary's Garagemahal) with a 10 gauge wire from Splice 203 to Splice 202.
Yes it helps if in a sig down below.
Dave ----
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Almost all of that wiring goes away.
Unplug connector 610.
Take the heavy yellow from the cab side of C610 and connect it to the hot post of the fender relay. (In place of fuse link 'J')
Take the lt gn/red exciter wire from C610 and splice it to the new 3G regulator pigtail.
With C610 unplugged and the 2G gone the ammeter is completely isolated.
There's no reason to jumper fusible link 'J' to 'L' & 'M' just to provide power to the cab.
Unplug connector 610.
Take the heavy yellow from the cab side of C610 and connect it to the hot post of the fender relay. (In place of fuse link 'J')
Take the lt gn/red exciter wire from C610 and splice it to the new 3G regulator pigtail.
With C610 unplugged and the 2G gone the ammeter is completely isolated.
There's no reason to jumper fusible link 'J' to 'L' & 'M' just to provide power to the cab.
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From: Northeast, OK
