And for the record I had a aftermarket oil filter and cap but went back to oem after all these problems started and did a oil change and checked the lpop and was getting normal oil and fill time threw the housing

 

If you unplugged it and still no hot start, that just confirms what we already suspect, that being a HPO leak.

An air test is next........could even be the oil rail nipple cups, or top injector seals.
Air test will point you to the culprit.

 

Ok sounds good anybody got an idea of where I can get the fitting for the air pressure test ?

Not sure when I will be able to get it into our autocraft center (a mechanic shop with all the tools that you do all the work yourself ) but I will keep you updated with the progress and what the colprit is

 

Here is what you need, it's the brass fitting of the two.
You can just thread the male end of the shop air hose into it.

 

Does anybody know if it would be better to do the air test threw the ipr or icp fitting or does it really matter

 

It does not matter.

It seems to be easiest and cheapest through the ICP port especially since you have the port on the passenger side instead of behind the turbo. There are various ways to do the air test and different places to connect shop air. Most important thing is actuating the IPR closed if you are not going through the IPR port with one of those expensive air test tools.

The option Mike showed you worked for me. I went through the ICP port behind the turbo, which was not too hard. Not too easy either.

My IPR pigtail had some splices in the wiring so I cut the wires and spliced in a couple pieces about 3' long to reach the battery terminals. Hooked up air and could hear air passing into the crankcase. Applied voltage to IPR and air stopped because IPR had closed, which is want you want. That way it pressurizes the HPO system. When I was done I just spliced my wires back together removing the previous splices.

I keep copying info from Rusty Axlerod because he has some great info. He posted this the other day in another thread...

"4 ways to close IPR

IMO the air test is not worth doing unless you hard pipe the air supply (ie the rubber tipped air tubing applied to the ICP hole is not reliable).

If you can't close the IPR valve for whatever reason, then it definitely is not worth doing.

4 ways to close the IPR:
1. Software like IDS to comand it closed (maybe AutoEnginuity will do it)
2. Buy an IPR connector and wire it up to apply switched power to close it: Red wire switched power Pin A: apply B+; Yellow/red switched ground Pin B: Apply B-
3. You can close it by having the key in the RUN position, and jumping pin #2 of C1381c (the middle of the three PCM connectors between the driver side battery and the inner driver side fender well which requires the battery cover removed to access) which will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is the ground side wire to the IPR.
4. Tool to close the IPR: Automotive Tool Web-site - DenLors Tools; OTC 6764 Ford Diesel 6.0L IPR Controller / Tester

OTC 6764 Ford Diesel 6.0L IPR Controller / Tester | Multimeters, Amp Clamps, Test Leads

Don't hold the IPR valve closed for more than 2 minutes. I have been told it is OK to do it longer, but I don't want to put someone elses IPR valve at risk."

 

so I just got my new hpop in ...
when I did the air pressure test my oil resivuar kinda girdled and bubbled but barley I was getting a little air out of the oil filler but I don't know if it was that the icp adapter wasn't fitting perfect or not but since everything I found said if any air at all comes out of the oil filter resivuar it the hpop.. sound right ? Rather way I have a new hpop I putting in after work ..

But here is my delema every single oring seal was flawless not anything abnormal but the only one I can't get to is the bottom jtub oring because I can get it out I pulled prayed and at one point had another guy with me and we bolth where yanking on it .. how do I get that out or is it safe to assume the oring is fine since it stuck... The little rubber loose ring is cracked but it doesn't look like a seal or oring it just by that connection

 

so I just got my new hpop in ...
when I did the air pressure test my oil resivuar kinda girdled and bubbled but barley I was getting a little air out of the oil filler but I don't know if it was that the icp adapter wasn't fitting perfect or not but since everything I found said if any air at all comes out of the oil filter resivuar it the hpop.. sound right ? Rather way I have a new hpop I putting in after work ..

But here is my delema every single oring seal was flawless not anything abnormal but the only one I can't get to is the bottom jtub oring because I can get it out I pulled prayed and at one point had another guy with me and we bolth where yanking on it .. how do I get that out or is it safe to assume the oring is fine since it stuck... The little rubber loose ring is cracked but it doesn't look like a seal or oring it just by that connection

 

I am skeptical that you can determine a leak point on an o-ring by visual insection.

We are talking thousands of psi, thin oil, and very small gaps can cause issues.

 

The only reason I came to that conclusion is because there was no discoloration at all on them they looked brand new ... But on your comment I will replace them out of good measure cause I wouldn't stop beating myself if it turned out to be a oring and I just installed a whole new hpop ... But what do you think about that jtub ? I don't want to snap it off in that housing

 

So I just put in the new hpop and put everything back together and was only running 8or 9 vlts on start so my batteries died but it started fine and when it was hot it struggled but started I not sure if that was cause the batteries but only tomorrow will tell I guess

 

You don't want to start a new thread on this, just stay on this one or you have guys jumping back and forth between threads, much harder to help you.

Take your new info and post it here, but for starters don't keep cranking on low batteries, you won't even get enough RPM for proper testing purposes.

 

Sorry about that I just haven't bin getting replays I have dropped $1500 worth of parts in it and at out autoshop just to rent it is 50 a day it has bin there for a week so it just all adding up and I live in a camper I have to move prior to may 1

But back to the post I having my batteries charged my negative connection was stupid loose so I tightened that and am going to put the batteries back in today and hope and pray my IPR is now at about 26 and is slowly lowering as it warms up my icp code hasn't showed back up since I re set it cause it was saved and the icp was at 1004 on initial fire and is at about 992 witch I think is still low

Is the air out of the filler cap and driver side air box on the valve cover normal ? And the j-tube not coming out ? Does that mean anything ?

 

The j tube takes a disconnect tool, as do oil rails on the early builds, not your truck though. Not the end of the world you didn't replace it, although it's advisable any time you replace the HPOP. I have never heard of a j tube failure if that helps.

It's probably taking some time to work the air out of the HPO side of things. Whatever you do, don't keep cranking it with low batteries. If you ever find the need to crank it, disconnect the FICM relay, at least that way it's not gonna cause harm to that.
Any time these engines are opened up on the HPO side, it's best to just crank it, key off, with the starter wire on the passenger side firewall. That way you are not cranking it with the system drawing other things. It won't start since the key is off, and it's a good way to prime things.....did you this method?

Knowledge is power, tons of info in the tech folders as well.

It's not unheard of to hear a little air from under the covers......the injectors take oil to fire after, and with air on them long enough, the oil gets pushed out.
That said, you might still have something leaking on the oil rail, top injector seals or the stand pipes/dummy plugs.
Once you get the air worked out after a few good driving sessions you will have a better idea where the readings settle at.

 

I did crank it that was only 2 times to make sure I was getting oil in the filter housing yah when i fired it up it was choking up but then settle down then repeated for a while I did notice a little smoke coming from the back of the engine but my exaust was hooked up to a ventilator system our shop has so I though it was coming back threw a or my rings on my turbo weren't a tight enough and that does make me feel better about the j-tube ... If this doesn't work I will be going after the standpipes and dummy plugs because the injectors and rings where replaced about a month ago