Problem with 1994 E150 van?
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New User
Joined: Mar 2017
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Problem with 1994 E150 van?
My 94 van with 5.0, when the temp outside is over 70 deg and after I've been driving a while, the van wants stall and quit running. The engine temp is normal but it's when it's warm outside, I'll come to a stop or in a drive through it want's to die. Please any help would be great!!
Thanks,
Thanks,
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
First thing I would do is either buy a code reader (OBD1 for your era) or take it somewhere to read any codes that the computer might be giving.
Is the Check engine light on?
It could be anything from the idle air control valve to a bad Computer.
Theres many things that could cause that situation
Is the Check engine light on?
It could be anything from the idle air control valve to a bad Computer.
Theres many things that could cause that situation
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Check to see that the fan clutch is engaged. I went through this in Las Vegas a few years ago. Engine temps showed normal but with the fan not spinning there was not enough air going through the engine box, this caused a vapor lock in the fuel lines. I changed the clutch to a low RPM engaged unit instead of the thermal unit it came with and washed the radiator fins out at a local car wash. Problem solved.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Doesn't matter codes can still be set. Get yourself an Equus 3145 code reader from Amazon or a local auto parts house, they only cost $25 or so. Most auto shops have neither the equipment or skills to diagnose these trucks anymore so you're better off doing it yourself.. with help from this forum of course. 
Without even having the codes there are a couple electronic things that could be causing your problem, the engine coolant temp sensor(ECT) or intake air temp sensor(IAT) could be out of spec and giving the computer bad information, or the ignition module could be failing. Note. When pulling codes make sure the engine is at operating temp or you will get false temp sensor codes. If there are real problems with any of these sensors codes will be set.
Without even having the codes there are a couple electronic things that could be causing your problem, the engine coolant temp sensor(ECT) or intake air temp sensor(IAT) could be out of spec and giving the computer bad information, or the ignition module could be failing. Note. When pulling codes make sure the engine is at operating temp or you will get false temp sensor codes. If there are real problems with any of these sensors codes will be set.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
First, here's a Link to troubling shooting problems with sensors.
Second, been there, done that.......it's the TPS sensor that causes stalling at stops, or slowing down for turns.
Kind of a pain to replace, as it's mounted on the bottom of the throttle body, which has to be removed from the upper plenum for replacement.
Second, been there, done that.......it's the TPS sensor that causes stalling at stops, or slowing down for turns.
Kind of a pain to replace, as it's mounted on the bottom of the throttle body, which has to be removed from the upper plenum for replacement.
New User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18
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From: Oxford USA
Not sure if this is the same, but what you describe sounds almost exactly like the problem I was having in my 93 Ford Bronco. Everything was good except on really hot days when the A/C was on and I was idling at a red light or stop sign. The motor would sputter and want to die. At higher RPMs, everything was fine.
I eventually figured out that my problem was a bad connection to the battery. All the extra pull on the electrical system when the A/C was running without the battery charging properly put a strain on everything. I removed and replaced the old battery cable connections, cleaned everything up and the problem is gone now.
My alternator gauge pegs much higher now too, so it obviously was not getting a full charge to the battery. The way I figured it out was my gauges would all start dropping and acting funny when it happened and if at night, the lights would flicker occasionally too, so I figured it had to be electrical. Hope it's that simple for you, but definitely something to check.
I eventually figured out that my problem was a bad connection to the battery. All the extra pull on the electrical system when the A/C was running without the battery charging properly put a strain on everything. I removed and replaced the old battery cable connections, cleaned everything up and the problem is gone now.
My alternator gauge pegs much higher now too, so it obviously was not getting a full charge to the battery. The way I figured it out was my gauges would all start dropping and acting funny when it happened and if at night, the lights would flicker occasionally too, so I figured it had to be electrical. Hope it's that simple for you, but definitely something to check.
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