When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Maybe, or it's just an inferior product that when installed by a person who has better than average mechanical skills following the instruction provided explicitly still occassionally fails. That's a crap product. To each their own, best of luck with your time-BOMB.
Apparently you use the OEM brand and not the helicoil brand so which one was it? If you indeed followed the instructions you wouldn't of had the problem. Did you at least bother to look up videos on the repair? What type of sealant did you use? Was the sert seated all the way in? I just find it hard to believe that it failed.
Apparently you use the OEM brand and not the helicoil brand so which one was it? If you indeed followed the instructions you wouldn't of had the problem. Did you at least bother to look up videos on the repair? What type of sealant did you use? Was the sert seated all the way in? I just find it hard to believe that it failed.
Did the one you install look like this
Or like this
the Save a Thread (misnamed, of course) is what I used, re-branded as OEM Products, but it is the Save a Thread as pictured on the second one. It was installed as per directions, and yes, i happened to watch a number of videos first, unfortunately at that time I didn't find all the failure videos though. There's plenty of those too.
Man that sucks, the one I installed has been working great, I think the truck hit 20K or more since the repaired thread. Yeah I don't know about the OEM brand but the one on the picture is the one I used. Did you by any chance see the top part of the insert down on the threaded hole? If you left it a bit upwards (the teeth that bite into the head) and smacked it with the tool that came with the kit you most likely ruined the insert and that's why it didn't bite the head, as for sealant I used the 620 Loctite (the green one). A really good instructional video I saw was on You tube by REAL FIXES REAL FAST the guy used the same kit I used on the repairs.
My issue now is that it is creeping INTO the head, migrating "down". I have machined a spark plug socket to fit the hex and turned down the OD so I can fit the socket into the tiny space afforded by the plug turning "in" to fit the socket. It appears it will work (I have to turn it down a bit farther tomorrow to get more bite on the plug hex) and hopefully i won't find any contact with the piston once I get it out.
This worked excellent right up until it didn't, when i started getting a misfire. It was stupid of me to discount this cylinder, or not consider the migration of the insert, but that appears to be the cause of my miss. We'll see. thanks for the support!
I used a Time-Sert repair on the #3 in or 6.8L and it has been running fine.
Time-Sert carries an insert to repair failed Helicoils
The standard repair for a blown/stripped/failed Helicoil is the 5553 kit with a 51459 insert unless a substantial amount of head material was also ripped out during an ejection, for example. There's no specialized tool or procedure beyond that to recover from and repair a typical ejection of the other insert.
If too much head material was lost, then the last chance repair would be the triple-oversized insert which requires its own tool set with a 51459 insert nested inside it.
The standard repair for a blown/stripped/failed Helicoil is the 5553 kit with a 51459 insert unless a substantial amount of head material was also ripped out during an ejection, for example. There's no specialized tool or procedure beyond that to recover from and repair a typical ejection of the other insert.
If too much head material was lost, then the last chance repair would be the triple-oversized insert which requires its own tool set with a 51459 insert nested inside it.
Hopefully there isn't too much additional damage, cannot tell yet, will know more tomorrow evening.
My issue now is that it is creeping INTO the head, migrating "down". I have machined a spark plug socket to fit the hex and turned down the OD so I can fit the socket into the tiny space afforded by the plug turning "in" to fit the socket. It appears it will work (I have to turn it down a bit farther tomorrow to get more bite on the plug hex) and hopefully i won't find any contact with the piston once I get it out....
Make sure the valves are closed and the piston is down if going past the end of the spark plug hole or they can be damaged.
projectSHO89 is correct. My current issue is the complete removal of the old plug and insert. the insert is creeping (turning) into, versus out of the head. The available room around the hex on the plug is minimal, a few thousandths off each "point" of the hex on the plug, no room for a socket to fit over the hex. I am turning down a socket to fit, incrementally, so it retains as much strength as possible and can still access the hole. I cannot measure it due to the depth and narrow confines so I am sneaking up on it versus going too far and needing to make a number of different special tools to effect the desired outcome.
Spark plug is now out, the improvised socket worked very well. Now to find a suitable sized easy out to pull the insert back up and out of the head. I'll find one that cannot drop into the combustion chamber even if the insert is out (yeah, gravity sucks and if I dropped it in I'd just run the truck off a cliff) then further inspect before going with the TimeSert for the head repair. No "impact" damage on the plug noted, fingers crossed that rings true after and I am not dealing with a "holey" piston from the insert spinning down into the chamber a bit (~0.25") .
Spark plug is now out, .... then further inspect before going with the TimeSert for the head repair. No "impact" damage on the plug noted, fingers crossed that rings true after and I am not dealing with a "holey" piston from the insert spinning down into the chamber a bit (~0.25") .
I think a valve would have been "impacted" before getting to the piston.
A compression test should tell if all is good.
Yes, a compression test would be a great benefit, but until the plug came out that wouldn't have been possible. Now that the insert is in the "way" it follows suit to remove that as regardless of what the compression result it it has to come out. I'll do a compression test before proceeding with any other remediation, but the "bad" stuff has to be gone either way to do so.
04-07-2017, 02:42 PM
