Hi all!
I purchased my 2016 F250 6.7, CC, SB, 4x4, last July and absolutely love it. When we bought it there was no way we were ever going to consider getting an RV. Well, fast forward to now and we are currently looking at toy haulers. I have fried my brain trying to understand my trucks limit. I’m hoping someone can help me understand the numbers…

My truck has a GVWR 0f 10K, a front GAWR of 5200 and a rear GAWR of 6100.

The tow guide says that my truck with a 3.55 rear end has a GCWR of 23,500 and max loaded trailer weight of 15,100 (5th wheel).

So my first point of confusion is that my GCWR is 23,500 but if you add the GVWR of the truck and max trailer weight, it comes out to 25,100. Am I looking at his incorrectly?

This leads to my second point of confusion; is the max trailer GVWR that I can tow 15,100 or 13,500?

So for example, I was looking at a XLR Boost, 36DSX13; if I combine the UVW and CCC it adds up to 14,333 which is below the max weight in the Ford towing guide…would this trailer work with my truck?

And lastly, is there a towing package upgrade that I can get from Ford that would increase the trucks towing max?

I apologize for all these questions. I’ve read through threads on this topic and I'm just as confused as ever. At this point, I need a sanity check to see if I’m on the right track.

Thanks, Al

 

You should also pay attention to the axle weights you listed. When going 5er/toy hauler you need to watch the king pin weight on the rear axle. You have 6,100 to start with but you should have the rear axle weighed by itself to get the empty weight on the rear and then add the listed king pin to see how close you are empty, but that will change loaded. Toy haulers are often very heavy without a load in the garage.

 

what I would do in this case is determine the current weight of you, family, tools and fuel. They you know what you have left over each axle.


As long as you have room over the axles and the tires are not over capacity at 80 psi then it is worthy of consideration.


Remember your power train and truck are identical to a F350. You are just missing the badge and perhaps the overload spring in the rear.


So you may have to add air bags.


for the toy hauler the more you add to the garage the less pin wt you will have as well.


So go off of what they (xlr) is indicating for a loaded tongue wt.

 

Thanks for the replies, this helps. Weighing the truck is going to help answer what my limits are.

Al

 

Al, remember your 250 is 100% identical to a SRW 350 but for the single rear overload spring. If you have the camper package, you have that too. If not, air bags provide the same function. The 250 is just de-rated on paper to fill a different market segment. So, while legally your ratings are that of a 250, physically you can pull anything a SRW 350 can. I would only concern myself with physical ratings but others are a lot more worried than me. So, you're real physical GVWR is 11.5k and your real rear GAWR is 7k. That said, you have MORE than enough truck for a XLR Boost. With the same truck, albeit a 2012 wearing 350 badging, I've towed my XLR 395AMP well over 10k miles in the last two years, all while staying under all my ratings except GCWR. My 2017 SRW is under on GCWR too though. The Boost you mentioned is 6k lighter to start with and 500#'s less on the pin. You'll be more than fine with your truck...

PS: If you're looking for the best price on an XLR and willing to travel, shop Jeff Couch's RV Nation in Hamilton OH. We drove some decent miles to buy there but saved over 9k off our closest dealer here in MA. They have a build and price on their website that you can configure the RV you want and get their selling price. It generally comes out to about 35-37% off MSRP. If you call them, as for Brannon and tell him Rodney sent you. He's outstanding to deal with.

https://www.couchsrvnation.com

 

Rodney, appreciate your thought's. I do kick myself for not getting an F350 especially since the cost difference is nominal but it is what it is. I'm going to hit the scales to see where I'm at and go from there. I will definitely look to add airbags. I notice you have a shortbed. Are you using a slider hitch? I've looked at the Demco autoslider and Pullrite autoslider. They both look nice but heavy! I do like the aluminum Anderson hitch for it simplicity and its light weight.

Al

 

Al, I have never run a slider on any of my short beds. Yes, you can have cab to RV contact if your not paying attention. You can also have truck to tree contact if you're not paying attention. My solution is to just pay attention...LOL. The auto sliders are nice but heavy and expensive as you pointed out. The Anderson certainly is a fan favorite these days. I've always run a Reese Elite which is the same as the Ford hitch. For my 2017 I got a Curt Q25 due to it's lower height to match the 2017's increased height. I think there is no bad option really when it comes to the hitch. As long as it drops into the Ford (Reese) OE prep, I'm fine with it...

 

(10,000# - the payload rating on your yellow door sticker) is the weight of your truck full of fuel and no people / cargo. With airbags and higher tire pressure, I think it would be reasonable from a physics perspective to add 1,500# to your payload (equaling the F350). Not so much from a legal perspective though.

It seems the legal weight is nearly never checked on RVs, but the laws of physics are enforced regularly

 

The more I read and learn here, the more comfortable I'm becoming with the capabilities of my truck. I still need to weigh my truck to see where I'm at and I think airbags should help augment my stock suspension.: I do have a question about at airbags though; when riding around unloaded, do you still need to maintain air pressure in the bags?

 

usually 5-10psi in the bags. The MFGR will specify.

 

Copy, thanks!

Al

 

The weak link is the tires. This is why if you want to carry more weight they make duallies.
I also have a 6.7 F250 with Firestone airbags and a wireless controller, a 15,000 lb. Reese Weight Distribution Hitch.
I pull a 30WRS Work and Play Toy Hauler, 12,000 lbs loaded with my Electra Glide etc.
F250's are rated at 14,000 lbs. pulling a trailer, 15,000 lbs for 5th wheels.
I just got rid of my stock tires after just 30,000 miles, both rear tires had separated.
I upgraded to Michelin Defenders, went from a 3000 lb load rated tire to a 3400 lb rated tire.
My F250 calls for 60 psi in the front and 70 in the rear tires, when I'm pulling / carrying a heavy load I air up to the max 80 psi in the rear and at least 70 in the front.

 

My truck came with Toyo Open Country, I'll have to check what the load rating is.

Thanks, Al

 

Rodney, you better watch out for the internet camper cops!!!!!!! I got in trouble with them on another site by telling someone that a 250 could pull anything a 350 SRW could pull!!!
But, you are 100% correct, other than the spring pack and *maybe* the spacer block they are the same! And now, back to our regulkarly scheduled program!!

 

Guess I will join the club, where do I pick up my fine