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Should be about 60+. Mine is at 58 at an idle with no blue spring update, but a new fuel pump and filters. But I found out after I checked it that you need to check it at wide open throttle. I'm not a fan of doing any WOT tests and was told you can simulate WOT by using a 0.047" orifice plumbed in with the gauge like this:
(I'm not an artist )
I'm just being cautious tho, I have blown head gaskets and baby the truck anytime I must drive it.
The amps were only for my process of documenting different alternator configurations, so you only need to do that if it's something you want to check. The voltage threasholds can be checked with a voltmeter, and if you want to do that from the cab the easiest way is to run the leads to where ever, pass batt, drivers batt, alternator, and lay the voltmeter on the open hood so you can watch it while cranking from the drivers seat. It's an easy method rather then trying to run from the seat to the front of the truck at the speed of light.
When you say nose down would say backing it into the driveway be sufficient if I had a moderately steep driveway? Not sure how much of an angle you'd need for this test, but it does make sense.
Yes, ICP sensor is back behind the turbo! Didn't know that was a indication of dummy plugs being present or not, but now I know - thanks!
Yes does have a factory oil filter and cap. Just changed the filters just around 1,000 miles ago when I switched to 5w40. No receipts of the work was given. It's probably one of those typical "sketchy" deals y'all are use to hearing, but basically the guy was a home diesel mechanic. The Excursion was actually an older couple's who used it to tow their two Harley's. They were going to trade it in, as they stopped riding, but the HPOP went out right before they got a chance to. The guy who I bought it from was the one who replaced the HPOP and who had cared for this specific Excursion under the previous owner's care - he did all their maintenance work to it. So while he didn't own it for long, he knew all what had been done with it.
Anyway to perform a type of leakdown test on the oil system? Sorry if that's a dumb question!
Moderately steep is good yes. The seal for the pump shaft on these early build pumps faces the firewall side, so parking nose down keeps less oil from draining past the seal by keeping it elevated in this scenario where you are in essence priming the pump every morning after it's leaked down.
This might not even be the issue but symptoms are very similar to other cold/hard start problems, and it's an easy test to point us in the right direction.
There are ways to do an air test yes, however it might not be needed if it ends up being something else.
Should be about 60+. Mine is at 58 at an idle with no blue spring update, but a new fuel pump and filters. But I found out after I checked it that you need to check it at wide open throttle. I'm not a fan of doing any WOT tests and was told you can simulate WOT by using a 0.047" orifice plumbed in with the gauge like this:
(I'm not an artist )
I'm just being cautious tho, I have blown head gaskets and baby the truck anytime I must drive it.
Thanks for the imagery, Picasso!
Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
The amps were only for my process of documenting different alternator configurations, so you only need to do that if it's something you want to check. The voltage threasholds can be checked with a voltmeter, and if you want to do that from the cab the easiest way is to run the leads to where ever, pass batt, drivers batt, alternator, and lay the voltmeter on the open hood so you can watch it while cranking from the drivers seat. It's an easy method rather then trying to run from the seat to the front of the truck at the speed of light.
I figured knowledge is power (no pun intended), so if I have the meters, might as well. I've got a few extra sets of leads, so I mated them together and was able to get my meter in the cab, just I was also looking at the laptop (with Forscan) at the same time a lot as well.
Originally Posted by navistarnut
Moderately steep is good yes. The seal for the pump shaft on these early build pumps faces the firewall side, so parking nose down keeps less oil from draining past the seal by keeping it elevated in this scenario where you are in essence priming the pump every morning after it's leaked down.
This might not even be the issue but symptoms are very similar to other cold/hard start problems, and it's an easy test to point us in the right direction.
There are ways to do an air test yes, however it might not be needed if it ends up being something else.
Worth a try! I'll put it in the driveway with the nose down this evening and give it a whirl tomorrow.
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To everyone that's replied, I sincerely appreciate your help and time!
I just had a "Could that have done it?" moment. With BumbleBee discussing fuel pressures and such I started thinking hard about that since I [personally] feel my batteries, alternator, and FICM are good (at least now). Then this thought dawned on me:
Two Mondays ago (the 13th) I changed the fuel filters - or should I say went to change the fuel filters. Ended up getting the wrong Motorcraft part (4606 vs 4616) but I had already pulled the rail mounted filter. Frustrated I had the wrong filters, I had no choice but to stick in the old filter and seal it back up. I can only imagine this potentially, key word, could be an issue with my start problem. Doing more reading, looks like the o-rings, filter type, and the procedure to changing the fuel filters is quite important. Yes - I know, scold me for not going to get the proper filter right then and there. Unfortunately, this is the family's primary vehicle and my wife needed it the following day - parts store had already closed.
The Ford 6.0 fuel filter guide was followed, minus the "new filter" part. Other places says there is an air bleeder on the rail mounted filter - is there actually such a thing?
Perhaps the fuel system still have air trapped? I haven't been able to drive the truck much since then. Looks like a decent test to this would be a bubble test, am I right? Another forum's old thread said to key on for 30 seconds, key off 10 seconds, and repeat 3-4 times and then try cranking to see how that resulted.
There have been issues of the HFCM filter being mis installed with starting/running issues as the result. Not a bad thing to check since it's still needed to be done.
If it was fuel, it would do it all the time and an air leak would be noticeable at sustained operation.
Turn the key on and listen for the pump to shut off, should do that in 20 seconds or so. And it would most likely have a fuel leak at the source of the issue as it drains over night.
I'm with Mike, park it nose down, even park the rears on a wooden block about 6-8" or a curb. Then see what happens in the morning.
Do make sure the oil filter is dripping with oil. Pull the cap and check it, should be coated top to bottom.
Not 100% sure this solved the issue, as I haven't tested it yet... But I think it was the issue. Climbed under it to put a new filter in, again, as I just felt like it was my issue, since the problem started after I touched it. When I got under it this is what I saw.
The gasket was ripped (I got the rip part out, not in the HCFM) and my secondary filter was empty. Put a new the new rail filter in, sealed it up. Took the secondary filter out, key'd the engine on and let it fill up (it overflowed a bit), and then put the secondary filter in. Torqued them both to specs, per the little paper in the filter box, and properly oiled them. I'll give it a go when the spilled diesel evaporates a little and report back.
That certainly won't help your starting problems, so you might be on to something there.
I'm actually surprised you didn't have fuel under the truck just running out.
That would do it , make sure the little pieces are out of the housing I think I see some bottom lower left on the housing threads , , here's hoping for a fix
That certainly won't help your starting problems, so you might be on to something there.
I'm actually surprised you didn't have fuel under the truck just running out.
Originally Posted by Bumblebee04
Sweet a cheap fix! Those are the greatest stories. Probably because I'm such a cheapass I get joy out of them!
Hope that was the problem!
Originally Posted by 04badford
That would do it , make sure the little pieces are out of the housing I think I see some bottom lower left on the housing threads , , here's hoping for a fix
Winner, winner, chicken dinner! Initial start was a little longer than what I'd expect, but cranked up on the first try. Let it cool back down and settle and tried it again, and it improved even more. With all the work that's been done to it, new FICM, new glow plugs, and batteries removed and tested, I'm sure part of it is the PCM needing to relearn a little bit (at least my experience with other cars is similar).
Here's a video of the second startup, after the first run had time to settle (about 2 hours later, first time truck never even got warm). I did let it key on for a while too, just to make sure:
In regards to the o-ring failing and getting it all out, I made sure. That photo of the secondary filter (sorry, I don't know the proper term, ha) is actually a nick in the threads, not the o-ring particles.
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, right on dude , your back rockin and Rollin ,keeper out of the Ditches.