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Is the oil your running full synthetic? And do you think two weeks was enough time to clean up the gunk left from Dino oil if you used a synthetic oil?
If you only have 1 weak 1, I'd definitely test the waters pulling it apart. It'll at least give you an idea of how long to do all 8 would take. Although from the spool valve pics I've seen it's basically just to buy yourself some time. Once the spool valve is worn/scored it's reman time.
Have you taken a shot in the dark with archoil or rev x? Seen many peeps rave about it, although we all know once the spool valve is too far gone it's just a bandaid.
I vote for injectors. I have removed and cleaned the spool valves in my injectors when I changed the orings. It's not that hard of a job but the hardest part is getting the correct torque on the spool bolt and nut if it's to tight the clearance won't be correct and too loose you risk the nut coming off. It took care of the stiction for a couple thousand miles but has returned.
If you have the cash I would do it once and be done with it why go back in later to change them one at a time.
Should injectors go bad it's ALWAYS better to replace them with Motorcraft remans than clean the spool valves. It's a very risky practice that's cost people more injectors than they've saved.
Ask Rusty Axlerod how well cleaning the spool valves went...
Should injectors go bad it's ALWAYS better to replace them with Motorcraft remans than clean the spool valves. It's a very risky practice that's cost people more injectors than they've saved.
Ask Rusty Axlerod how well cleaning the spool valves went...
I remember a thread here over a year ago of someone who ended up taking some back out because of issues with the nuts, etc..........replacing them is the best way to go if the additives won't touch it.
I've been debating this myself, fortunately this winter my truck has not been acting badly, maybe the years of synthetic oil and winters of Rev-X or Archoil have made a permanent change... not counting on it.
Suffering from stiction is not a "too far gone" situation. Just do the chemical in the winter to get by, and your injectors are fine.
Replacing needs no discussion, you know what you get there. Except that you will have the newer style spool valves, which I am told will not develop stiction, but that is just an impression I get.
The cleaning process is something I've thought about trying, but there seems to be a lot of guessing out there as to whether and how well it works, and what kind of risk there is (assuming you don't lose or damage anything in the process). Also not sure what all you'd need to buy, surely seal kits at least.
People who claim to have done it themselves like the idea, but warnings come from people who I can't say whether they've done it or just passed on something they heard on the internet.
My reason for putting it off is laziness, I want to be able to answer the question myself.
That would be me that had to pull the injectors back out to loosen up the spool nuts...I guess I torqued them to tight and developed a random stumble and miss once I got up to operating temps. Since it only cost me my time and 8 seal kits it was worth a try to me and feel that it did help a bit but feel that a total replacement could be a longer term fix since I doubt it's only the spool valves that get tiered over time.
Another thing that really helped with my cold starts and siction was sending my ficm off to Ed for a massage and atlas 40 tune installed, and a bonus with the extra bit of power there is a grin factor to be gained by giving this a try.
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