When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am getting ready to hitch up my travel trailer and take our first trip in the new truck. It's a 31 ft travel trailer and weighs about 9-10K loaded up. I will be using the weight distributing hitch and my truck is an F-250 with the 18 in rims and the Goodyear Wranglers on them.
What tire pressures should I run when towing? The manual only states to run the door jamb pressures of 60 front and 65 rear and doesn't specify anything different for towing. What are everyone's thoughts on here?
I put Max psi on the tire sidewall when towing or hauling any significant weight. The tires receive their Max load ratings only at that number. Lower pressures produce higher temperatures.
If you have scaled weights for your truck with the trailer attached you could use a load and inflation table like this one from Toyo https://toyotires-1524598101.netdna-...s_20170203.pdf to determine the appropriate air pressure for your tire size based on the weight it will be supporting.
So long as you are within the specs of the front and rear axle rating on the door jam, the factory specs will be fine. As you increase tire pressure, load carrying capacity increases. This is one of the reasons the F350 with the same tires will have the door jamb day 80 psi instead of 65, because of the higher RAWR. If you are under the capacity of the tires (and within the trucks capabilities, which is sounds like you are) then there is no need to run a higher pressure than factory. You will get some additional stiffness from the higher pressure, but again at those weights it would not be of much benefit.
So long as you are within the specs of the front and rear axle rating on the door jam, the factory specs will be fine. As you increase tire pressure, load carrying capacity increases. This is one of the reasons the F350 with the same tires will have the door jamb day 80 psi instead of 65, because of the higher RAWR. If you are under the capacity of the tires (and within the trucks capabilities, which is sounds like you are) then there is no need to run a higher pressure than factory. You will get some additional stiffness from the higher pressure, but again at those weights it would not be of much benefit.
YMMV
But the F250 comes with D rated tires and the F350 comes with E rated tires.
The max pressure of a D rated will be 65 psi.
The max pressure of a E rated will be 80 psi.
Just follow the pressure ratings in the door jamb and you'll be fine.
But the F250 comes with D rated tires and the F350 comes with E rated tires.
The max pressure of a D rated will be 65 psi.
The max pressure of a E rated will be 80 psi.
Just follow the pressure ratings in the door jamb and you'll be fine.
I've been around hundreds of F250's over the last 15 years heading straight to work duty from the dealership. I've never seen a D rated tire on a single one of them.
My mistake but the 250's used to only come with D rated tires, if there was a change no one notified me, sorry.
My last experience with anything less than a 350 was an '01 Excursion we bought while the kids were young and we were on the move constantly, it came with D rated tires. My wife still gets that funny look on her face whenever its mentioned, she loved it as it was her daily driver.
My mistake but the 250's used to only come with D rated tires, if there was a change no one notified me, sorry.
My last experience with anything less than a 350 was an '01 Excursion we bought while the kids were young and we were on the move constantly, it came with D rated tires. My wife still gets that funny look on her face whenever its mentioned, she loved it as it was her daily driver.
I generally run whatever psi is on the sidewalls.
250's have come with E rated tires since 1999 AFAIK. 150's get D rated tires.
From the load inflation table:
"This guide is intended to provide assistance in utilizing load and inflation tables when replacing tires with optional tire sizes including “plus sizes” that may not be listed on the vehicle's tire information placard (T.I.P.) or in the owner's manual."
A quick trip to the scales and a Google search could help you determine the appropriate pressure for any tire size you're running. Then there's the old school chalk method, if you're into that....
The door jamb information is only good if you have factory tires. If not, the max load and psi on the tire sidewall should be used.
This is wrong. ALWAYS use the door jam label pressure....it's what the manufacturer designed the suspension, handling, and safety to. You fill to the sidewall pressure and you risk skidding off the road, especially in slick conditions.
I'll continue to use the pressure that works best for the situation the truck is in at the time. Lower pressure than the door jam when roads are snow/ice covered (live in Colorado in an area that gets a lot of snow) and I'm not towing/loaded and higher pressure than the door jam up to the sidewall max when I'm towing or loaded with the truck camper and roads are clear. Combination of conditions gets a pressure somewhere in the middle depending on what I think is appropriate based on experience and feel. No engineer (and I happen to be one) can possibly determine a single pressure that is optimal for every situation including road and load conditions.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.