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Ok so my blower motor just stop working out of no place. I tested the motor an it checks out . What else could it be ? The switch? Are the switches a known problem? Plz help it's still cold out in New York
Ok so my blower motor just stop working out of no place. I tested the motor an it checks out . What else could it be ? The switch? Are the switches a known problem? Plz help it's still cold out in New York
With or without A/C makes a difference with the motor, switch and blower motor resistor.
Well I just checked the fuse an this is what I found . It was a 20amp, idk what made it melt but now that I think about it , this weekend I was driving an smelled something electrical burning , I'm guessing that was the fuse melting. Any ideas why it would melt like it did? Could the blower motor be on its way out an the windings are drawing to many amps? Thx so much for the help!
WOW!
Something else has to be wrong to melt the fuse as it should have blown before all that damage was done.
What does the box look like?
How did you check the fan to say it "checks out"?
I would start at the fuse box, unbolt it from the wall and check the back side for damage and fix as needed.
Then follow the wiring out to the fan motor to make sure it did not melt or short on anything.
Maybe pull the motor and see how hard it turns by hand.
Dave ----
I'm going to pull it in side tomorrow an check the fuse panel. An to test the blower I just put 12v to the hot side an it went. The blower spins nice an no major noise .i think I might have to dig in to the wiring. I put a new fuse in an it works , but I'm not going to just wait for this to happen again. I'll keep posted
Probably worth cleaning any crap out of the blower motor, lubricating the bearings, and cleaning the commutator and check the brushes. Good maintenance every few decades. Some have put a grease zerk on the back of the motor but if you do that don't go crazy and fill the motor with grease.
I added a relay to mine which significantly improved voltage at the blower motor and slightly but noticeably improved blower speed and airflow. The closer to battery voltage you get at the blower the less amps it will pull. If your wiring or grounds are rough and have high resistance this can make things get hot and melty.
If I were to guess, someone has used a fuse tap on that fuse to hook something else up at one time. They are great for tapping in the fuse box for power, I recommend them all the time to easily tap for power. But they have a drawback. They make the leg of the fuse you are tapping a little thicker. That's ok till you decide not to use it anymore and take it off. Being thicker is spreads the metal socket in the fuse box out a little bit, and then when you take it out and just use the fuse itself, the socket doesn't make a good tight connection, which can cause it to over heat.
Whether this was actually the problem or not, if the fuse box is not totally melted, you could get a fuse tap and put it on a new 30 amp fuse and see if it makes a better connection on the side that melted.
This came up with an OBS on one of the forums recently, and it happened to one of my OBSes. I have no idea where the blower motor resistor block is on your generation of A/C truck, but FIND it and remove it. Betcha you'll see a nice blob of random material on it. Meaning, mice have set up housekeeping there. The nest either causes the resistors to heat up more, thus heating up the circuit itself, or it shorts something between the resistor contacts. In any event, the result is that the fuse terminal heats up like that. And since the actual CURRENT going through the circuit isn't enough to blow the fuse, it, er..., doesn't blow. The way I confirmed suspicion that this was the cause, before going to look for the resistor block, I ran the fan on full speed and everything was normal. Then I ran it on a lower speed, and I could FEEL the fuse heating up (fuse box is right by your left hand on an OBS).
You'll have to clean up and possibly replace the terminal in the fuse box where that fuse plugged in.