Rescuing another Ex from the junkyard: 2002 V10
#31
#33
I honestly wouldn't know if they're rated for that much. They were given to me years ago. I hand welded the supports on with a cheap 110 welder a couple of years ago, seem to be holding fine despite how sorry they look.
#35
I recommend the plastic rhino ramps. The set I have are rated at 3000 each, and don't scetch me out near as much as the steel ramps.
#36
#37
#38
Putting off major work ahead of me, this weekend is one of yet another small victories, and I DO mean victories.
A 2002 Ford Explorer/Mountaineer electrochroamatic rear view mirror swaps right on to the EX. Got one from eBay and was surprised at how easy it was to install, didn't even need to cut/splice any wires. Just snipped one of the guides off of the stock pigtail and she slid right on, all pinouts match up too. Success for $20!
Pics for reference, just be sure to remove the OEM mirror CAREFULLY and not crack your windshield.
Wiring lines right up as well as the pinout.
Snip off the right side of the factory pigtail for clearance onto the Explorer mirror.
Old v. New. Much better.
#39
Well photobucket ransomed my images so now I'll have to find another way to host em, poop...
In other news I sold my white Ex and started driving this truck. Shortly after the rear left tire blew on the highway and murdered my OEM Ford mudflap and inner mud flap as well. Sucks..
Thankfully the vintage Pirelli Scorpion A/T spare was brand new and got me home.
Also picked up some Limited style wheels for the truck with decent 265 75 16 Firestone Transforce ATs on them.
This Saturday the bodywork starts.
In other news I sold my white Ex and started driving this truck. Shortly after the rear left tire blew on the highway and murdered my OEM Ford mudflap and inner mud flap as well. Sucks..
Thankfully the vintage Pirelli Scorpion A/T spare was brand new and got me home.
Also picked up some Limited style wheels for the truck with decent 265 75 16 Firestone Transforce ATs on them.
This Saturday the bodywork starts.
#42
Not too much in the way of updates:
Started taking off the running boards and sizing up the level of work to be done. Funny enough the rocker panels/inner rockers/supports are all fine from the back doors forward, even the rocker seam is good... Go figure. Will be making a patch panel for the dogleg area behind the doors and probably welding in angle iron to the inner rocker panel for running board mounts. Since the old boards are rusted to hell, I picked up some black tubular Smittybilt nerf bars to put on.
photos:
#43
I feel your pain on the rust. In the year I've been in CT, I've welded up and removed rust/rot from 2 trucks. This X will be my 3rd project now
My current X has the exact same rust on the rear pass door. it's not blown through yet like your pic above, but pinholes for sure. I hate beet juice and salt!
Love that color. Glad to see someone saving her
My current X has the exact same rust on the rear pass door. it's not blown through yet like your pic above, but pinholes for sure. I hate beet juice and salt!
Love that color. Glad to see someone saving her
#44
Great progress!! I also was glad to see how an Ex looked without the running boards. I've had a interest in the. PowerSteps for a long time...just haven't done it....so the pic without boards is a help. Anxious to see the new tubes...
I too found some slight rust beginnning on my hitch. Maybe over the winter I can remove it for paint or powder coating. How tough to just pull-replace the hitch?
I too found some slight rust beginnning on my hitch. Maybe over the winter I can remove it for paint or powder coating. How tough to just pull-replace the hitch?
#45
Great progress!! I also was glad to see how an Ex looked without the running boards. I've had a interest in the. PowerSteps for a long time...just haven't done it....so the pic without boards is a help. Anxious to see the new tubes...
I too found some slight rust beginnning on my hitch. Maybe over the winter I can remove it for paint or powder coating. How tough to just pull-replace the hitch?
I too found some slight rust beginnning on my hitch. Maybe over the winter I can remove it for paint or powder coating. How tough to just pull-replace the hitch?
Just pulling the hitch is a pain Matt, mainly due to the two round headed bolts they used to help prevent folks from taking them off and leaving them off. You will need to drill out the round heads and replace them with hex heads for reassembly. Additionally the factory used blue thread locker that softens up with heat, using a torch right next to the gas tank is not a good idea. I would drop the tank, it pretty easy to do, 4 skid plate bolts, 2 hose clamps on the fill and vent then drop it right down on a floor jack. Once all the way down you will have two quick connects on the fuel lines to pop loose and the pump power and level sender electrical plug to undo. All of the wires and fuel lines have enough slack to drop the tank all the before undoing them. Once the tank is out of the way using heat on the thread locker is much safer and makes the hitch bolts spin so much easier. And you can now use a pipe wrench on the round heads to spin then out vs drilling them. It's a good opportunity to clean up that underbody area while you are there.