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05 Mariner no start

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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 07:37 PM
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05 Mariner no start

Hey guys, so my friends mercury Mariner died on him while driving, power steering went then power breaks followed by the rest of the acc. and wont start back up. I ran the codes and it only had 1 being camshaft position sensor, replaced that and the code went away, tried starting and it acted like it wanted to start for a brief second then nothing, same issue but no codes now. Fuel pressure is in spec at 43 psi, battery passed all tests, it has spark ( weak though ) but the plugs are needing changed soon, im not sure what else to check to get it running again, plugs have maybe 35-40% life left so they should be enough to still start the vehicle but maybe run a bit rough. Im out of ideas, Does anyone have any ideas?

2005 Mercury Mariner V6 AWD/4WD
 
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 08:02 PM
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If you crank it does the exhaust smell of unburned gasoline? If so then your problem is ignition, if not then your problem is injectors/fuel related.

If it suddenly cut out (as opposed to misfiring) then the problem is affecting all sparks or all injectors so I would be looking around the wiring harness on the engine for issues. All fuses good?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2017 | 08:44 AM
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Just as an observation, the power accessories failed because the engine stalled.

Not to cause undue consternation, but that particular vehicle is in the class that experienced a problem with the spark plugs that eventually would blow out the PCM and required a very expensive repair (PCM, COPS, plugs, PATS reprogram). Your symptoms don't match the specifics listed in the TSB (P035x DTCs), but I wouldn't rule it either in or out. If the spark plugs happen to be original, then it's a possible concern.

Check power supply to both injectors and COPS for full supply voltage.
Check injector operation.
Check spark timing.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by simonsi
If you crank it does the exhaust smell of unburned gasoline? If so then your problem is ignition, if not then your problem is injectors/fuel related.

If it suddenly cut out (as opposed to misfiring) then the problem is affecting all sparks or all injectors so I would be looking around the wiring harness on the engine for issues. All fuses good?
Thanks for those suggestions, Yes all fuses are good, first thing i checked. I will see if the exhaust is normal or smells of gas and go from there

Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Just as an observation, the power accessories failed because the engine stalled.

Not to cause undue consternation, but that particular vehicle is in the class that experienced a problem with the spark plugs that eventually would blow out the PCM and required a very expensive repair (PCM, COPS, plugs, PATS reprogram). Your symptoms don't match the specifics listed in the TSB (P035x DTCs), but I wouldn't rule it either in or out. If the spark plugs happen to be original, then it's a possible concern.

Check power supply to both injectors and COPS for full supply voltage.
Check injector operation.
Check spark timing.
Yeah I know thats why the accessories failed, I was unaware this vehicle had that problem, I just got new plugs im about to put in and check the cops and injectors, hoping it was just bad plugs but i doubt it. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 11:35 AM
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So update, exhaust has no smell at all. I checked COP power and all were the same around 5.9. Cant get to the injectors without removing the top half of the engine it seems. I tried giving it a shot of starting fluid as well and nothing changed, My thinking is if it was fuel related it should of atleast tried to start with SF
 
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 11:56 AM
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If you have less than full battery voltage on the supply side of the coils (red wire), you've identified an issue that will prevent engine operation (no or very weak spark). The coils and injectors share a common power source from BJB fuse F30 via the PCM Power Relay. That same power feed runs a whole lot of other things that are mandatory for engine operation.

As a quick test, swap the PCM Power Relay with an identical relay that isn't required for engine operation. Easy to do and only takes a minute. If that doesn't get it, it will be more difficult.

I wouldn't mess with the spark plugs at the moment.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
If you have less than full battery voltage on the supply side of the coils (red wire), you've identified an issue that will prevent engine operation (no or very weak spark). The coils and injectors share a common power source from BJB fuse F30 via the PCM Power Relay. That same power feed runs a whole lot of other things that are mandatory for engine operation.

As a quick test, swap the PCM Power Relay with an identical relay that isn't required for engine operation. Easy to do and only takes a minute. If that doesn't get it, it will be more difficult.

I wouldn't mess with the spark plugs at the moment.
Just tried swapping the relay and fuses both and no change :/ Any other ideas? This really has me stumped
 
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 01:28 PM
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Time to get the meter out and check the supply circuit. You'll need to focus on circuit 361 and its sources and feeds.

Recommended testing order:

1. BJB F8 supply and load. BJJ distribution
2. PCM Power Relay energized? BJB Fuse F5, diode, ignition switch.
3. PCM Power Relay pin 87 (output)?
4. BJB fuses F5 & 11 (downstream loads from relay).

See what your results are.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2017 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Time to get the meter out and check the supply circuit. You'll need to focus on circuit 361 and its sources and feeds.

Recommended testing order:

1. BJB F8 supply and load. BJJ distribution
2. PCM Power Relay energized? BJB Fuse F5, diode, ignition switch.
3. PCM Power Relay pin 87 (output)?
4. BJB fuses F5 & 11 (downstream loads from relay).

See what your results are.
Thanks for those diagrams, Ill work on those tonight when i get back home. I also just got done doing a quick test on the old cam sensor and the new one to find that the old one was perfectly working, same reading almost to the dot, Both functioned as should when moving the end by metal as well, leading to think something else caused that code to be thrown..I read that the starter or a weak battery can make that code come up? The onboard message system also is saying to check charging system if thats related in anyway. Battery is strong at 12.3 but ill throw it on a charger while im at work for a couple hours just to see.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 08:40 AM
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Per a charging image, 12.37 is a 70% charged battery.

In other words, it is 30% discharged(more) at 12.3 volts.

The system should provide battery voltage to the COPs and injectors. The computer will provide a ground to energize the injectors, and provide & remove a ground to operate the COPs. But, they should have battery voltage whenever the key is ON.

Have you looked at the crank position sensor?

tom
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by tomw
Per a charging image, 12.37 is a 70% charged battery.

In other words, it is 30% discharged(more) at 12.3 volts.

The system should provide battery voltage to the COPs and injectors. The computer will provide a ground to energize the injectors, and provide & remove a ground to operate the COPs. But, they should have battery voltage whenever the key is ON.

Have you looked at the crank position sensor?

tom
I have not touched the crank sensor yet, I was thinking about that this morning. Wouldn't that throw a code if it went bad? The cam sensor said it went bad and threw the code even though it wasn't bad and still good
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 11:58 AM
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The crank sensor will not cause the COP supply voltage to be less than half of what it should be, assuming the prior measurement was made correctly.

Focus on resolving the supply issue already noted. If the supply isn't correct, nothing will work correctly.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
The crank sensor will not cause the COP supply voltage to be less than half of what it should be, assuming the prior measurement was made correctly.

Focus on resolving the supply issue already noted. If the supply isn't correct, nothing will work correctly.
The COPS should show what the battery is at correct? Im not use to working on newer vehicles, im use to my old 90s ford truck that hardly has computer controlled anything, way different then this
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 02:38 PM
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Update... Removed the air intake and all hoses attached to get into the injectors and back cops, all COPS and injector connectors are showing normal supply now ( 12.63 per what the battery currently is charged at ) If anyone has the resistance specs for what the cops should be so i can check each one that would be helpful. After this I will start checking noted circuits above and report back
 
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Old Mar 19, 2017 | 03:26 PM
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The resistance of the COPs is irrelevant (and fairly useless as a diagnostic step).

all COPS and injector connectors are showing normal supply now
Sounds like you inadvertently "fixed" your issue which may be an intermittent.

Put it back together and see if it runs now. Start over with any new data, if applicable.

Your data has changed, therefore, your approach must change to collect new and valid data.
 
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