I am doing this, but other than the headlight thread, I have yet to see any other information on this subject. Now, before you judge me, or ask why I didn't order the truck with it, I will say I didn't order this truck. The dealer located it for me. My situation required me to take delivery of the truck before the end of the year, and this was as close as we could get to what I wanted in that time frame. Now it is up to me to make the truck what I wanted. Yes, it is expensive to do afterwards, I get that.

Here is the information I have so far, mostly from FDNY136. He went about the swap a little differently, sourcing his taillights from a aftermarket body installer from a takeoff bed. Smart, as he got them fairly inexpensively. Should you source them this way there are some advantages, as they will likely be complete.

Buying the taillights from the dealer, this is what you will need:

HC3Z-13A409-C Wiring Harness
HC3Z-14D189-C Driver's Side BLIS Mounting Bracket
HC3Z-13404-C Passenger Side Taillight Housing
HC3Z-14D189-D Passenger Side BLIS Mounting Bracket
HC3Z-13410-B Qty. 2 - Electrical connector

About $1000.00 from the dealer.

Tools Needed:
Key for spare tire. Mine was inside my transponder key. YMMV
Spare tire lowering rod assembly, found somewhere in the truck. Mine was under the back seat. YMMV
Ratchet, 1/4 drive
7mm socket
8mm socket
T20 torx socket or screwdriver
Door panel removal tool or prying device for xmas tree fastenersStraight pick
Small control tip flat screw driver
Masking tape and sharpie to label wiring
Black electrical tape, or whatever color you feel like really. Mix it up, get rowdy.

1. Remove both taillight assemblies using the 8mm socket and removing two screws per light. Pull light straight out, releasing two push clip fasteners. Set light aside, you will need parts from it later.

2. Lower and remove spare tire. This will make it easier to remove the harness.

3. Remove harness. Start with the driver's side taillight and remove push fasteners and connectors until you get to the passenger side of the trailer hitch. Then do the passenger side. The connector for the bed light (if equipped) is different than all the other connectors. To remove, you must use a flat screwdriver to push the red part of the clip back towards the wire, and then push to release. Do not force it. Finish removing the harness to the two large connectors fastened to the trailer hitch.

4. Unpack new harness, and perform pinout procedure outlined in FDNY136's video below.

5. Install new harness the same way the old one came out.

6. Re-install spare tire.

7. Remove BLIS modules (if equipped) from the old taillights by removing four 7mm screws and removing the backing plate. Use the T20 torx to remove two screws from the BLIS module first, and then disconnecting the BLIS electrical connector. Pack up old taillights and store.

8. New taillight assembly - Install new electrical connector in the bracket of each new taillight. They are keyed, and only go in one way. Rotate 1/8 of a turn to lock in place. Install BLIS module my seating the electrical connector first, and reusing the T20 screws. Plug in the new taillight to the electrical connector. Install BLIS backing plate assembly to taillight reusing the four 7mm screws.

9. Install taillights by plugging in harness, seating two push fasteners, and reusing 8mm screws.

10. Test all functions.

11. Use ForScan to eliminate hyper flash on the dash. Tutorial coming.



Thanks to FDNY136 for the videos he posted.

 

Edited with some new information.

 

Updated. I just have to figure out ForScan.

 

We're you able to figure out the forscan changes? I found a set but they are equipped with BLIS and my truck is not, am I correct by assuming that will not present any problems? The ones I found are in a takeoff bed and will be using the harness off of that bed. My main concern is the BLIS causing some issues or is it a separate part of the harness that I simply won't use. I have not seen the harness in person so I'm sorry if it seems like a dumb concern.

 

Having Bliss equipped lights will not cause any problems.

 

I have done this conversion and it works great, however I have always wondered if there is an undiscovered Forscan setting that would make the pinout change to the harness unneeded.

 

I replaced our XLT's OEM incandescent taillight bulbs with Sylvania Zevo #3157R LED lamps, and I also did the FORscan "adjustments" to avoid the hyperflash.

Four bulbs (2 x two-paks) were $40 + tax at Walmart. I'm VERY pleased with the results.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

subscribed

 

I'm curious as to how this looks, I was thinking about doing the same thing. Can you post a video of how it looks? Possibly daytime and night time?

 

installed factory led tail lights but cannot figure out how to stop hyperflash tried both options listed in forscan spreadsheet. any suggestions?

 

I’ve been away for a couple of weeks and am catching up. I’ll see if I can do a video later this week. In the meantime, I think the replacement LED lamps look great!

Regards,
Jim/ crewzer

 

Here are a couple of videos I shot with my iPhone yesterday. They've been converted to wmv files.

The parking lamps and flashers are turned on in both samples, so you should see alternating regular- and bright lamps for the day- and night shots.

HTH!
Jim / crewzer

 

That looks good! I'll either give those a try, or the JDMaster ones, since they are cheaper. Thanks for the videos.

 

The diagram's I've been able to find that go along with the BLIS mounting bracket part #'s below appear to be the same in both the LED and incandescent tail light assemblies however no part #'s are listed. It's unclear if the mounting brackets are reusable; anyone have a resource or know off-hand whether the brackets can be used in either version of the taillight? I'd like to avoid buying new brackets if I can reuse the bracket from the old tail light assembly in the LED assembly. Thanks!

HC3Z-14D189-C - LH BLIS mounting bracket
HC3Z-14D189-D - RH BLIS mounting bracket

 

iirc they are the same