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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Gauges vs Idiot Lights?

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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 07:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
It was actually just an example, but I hadn't thought about needing a ground. So, good point. Thanks!
Actually, you will be hooking one side of your lights to key-on power, and the other side will be hooked to the wire that goes to the switch on the engine. You might want to look at the diagrams, they may have had a "test the bulb when starting" feature, I know some of these dash lights did, but I have never studied how they did it.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 09:59 PM
  #17  
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Yeah, I'm obviously not thinking through this very well. You are right, both bulbs get power in Run. But, the diagrams don't show a "test the bulb when starting" feature. I've clipped both the oil pressure and charge indicator schematics to show that they just get power in Run and there's no other way to turn them on. (I wish IB had a way to insert a gallery, meaning thumbnails of pics, instead of full-blown pics.)

But, since I'll be going to a 3G then I'll wire it as shown in the pic at the bottom.









 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 07:28 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I would not use that particular socket you have pictured. It only has one wire coming off it and requires it be mounted in something metal for the ground to the light. I would try to find something with two wires.

Grote Pigtail, Twist-In Socket Pigtail 68380: Advance Auto Parts



My answer to have the stock brake & park lights working.
BTW each gauge has a warning light so if not normal will come on.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 07:57 AM
  #19  
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Your gauges look good!

And thanks for the socket idea. Do they snap in, or do the openings have to be slotted?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 10:19 AM
  #20  
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They don't snap or push in they twist-n-lock, think side marker light.


I drilled a hole in the plate a little smaller than the socket then filed it square like a side marker light. You push the socket in the square then turn it to lock it in in the corners.
It was not hard in the alum. plate I used and should be easier in plastic.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 11:06 AM
  #21  
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Ok, thanks.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 12:06 PM
  #22  
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I have a nibbler for this sort of thing.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 12:14 PM
  #23  
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I, too, have a nibbler, although I'm not sure it'll handle the thickness of the plastic. Or, that it'll nibble plastic w/o cracking it. But, you probably meant for aluminum like Dave used.

Now, as for how I got the nibbler: A week ago tonight a friend came to me at church and told me that the new pawn shop had "metal working bits". So, I went in to see. And I walked out with over 100 reamers, end-mills, drill bits, taps, die, and one nibbler.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 01:20 PM
  #24  
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That alum. panel is too thick for my nibbler so it was drill bit and hand files.

Now I was able to use the nibbler on the silver carbon fiber for the center lights and for the odd shape of the head & wiper switches to the left.

I also had to use the nibbler on a door for the door glass adjustment slot as the "shoe" was not glued on in the right place.
That has been to only time I have used it.


On the plastic I would use drill & files as it is soft and easy to work with.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 01:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
That alum. panel is too thick for my nibbler so it was drill bit and hand files.

Now I was able to use the nibbler on the silver carbon fiber for the center lights and for the odd shape of the head & wiper switches to the left.

I also had to use the nibbler on a door for the door glass adjustment slot as the "shoe" was not glued on in the right place.
That has been to only time I have used it.


On the plastic I would use drill & files as it is soft and easy to work with.
Dave ----
Dremel Tool ?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 02:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by WhatsAChevy?
Dremel Tool ?
Milling machine.

Seriously, if I do this I'll have the part strapped down to the table to mill off the cross and bosses for the gauge studs. So, why not then drill the holes for the socket and at least rough out the slots? Then clean the slots up with a file. Or Dremel.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 05:14 PM
  #27  
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Curiosity got the better of me, so I looked at how they did this warning bulb test.

Look at page 16 in this link. On the ignition switch all the way to the right, the pink/white 977 wire. I never realized till now, that part of the ignition switch is a GROUND with the wiper grounded.
Charge & Power Distribution - Gasoline Engines - ???Gary's Garagemahal

Here is page 88. Warning Indicators - ???Gary's Garagemahal

Look at the bottom of the diagram, there is a small picture of the ignition switch, that one wiper is a ground and it sweeps by the brake warning indicator wire to briefly turn it on. Looks like they only used this for the brake warning indicators.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 05:32 PM
  #28  
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Interesting! In Start they bring the brake light on. Wait...........BRB

Yep, Big Blue won't crank, but the Brake light comes on while the key is in Start. So, that suggests that the ignition switch is physically turning to Start, although it is a 4-gang switch so it is possible one gang gets there and another doesn't.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 06:26 PM
  #29  
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Nibblers work quite well on most plastics.
Acrylic is a little too brittle, but if the bite is deep enough it will chomp through that panel like butter.


​​​​​​​I don't have much advice on your cluster because my '87 has very different gauges.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 07:25 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Nibblers work quite well on most plastics.
Acrylic is a little too brittle, but if the bite is deep enough it will chomp through that panel like butter.


​​​​​​​I don't have much advice on your cluster because my '87 has very different gauges.
If it was fresh new plastic then I might use a nibbler but we are talking 30+ year old heated and cooled plastic and could turn brittle and lead to cracking the unit.
Dave ----
 
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