Another No-Start, Help :(
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New User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 10
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From: Colorado
When I replaced the IPR along the road, I then filled the HPOP reservoir with oil before trying to start.
It took a little longer than usual, but not much. You can try filling the HPOP with fresh oil.
What oil are you using? As our injectors get older and "more seasoned" (LOL), switching to something like Rotella T6 5w-40w Synthetic oil for diesels helps them out.
Do you have OBD bluetooth or wireless adapter? Most standard OBD tools will not pull the OBD codes and even fewer will pull the enhanced Ford-specific codes.
What brand IPR did you use?
IPR, CPS should definitely be Ford only OEM.
ICP is preferred to be Ford OEM, but I am using the International version/numbered part (out of Japan) with good results.
Do you have a tuner or programmed chip or programed PCM?
What is your outside temp? You can try plugging in your truck about 4 hrs or so, in case your glow plugs are not working properly.
Hope this helps.
It took a little longer than usual, but not much. You can try filling the HPOP with fresh oil.
What oil are you using? As our injectors get older and "more seasoned" (LOL), switching to something like Rotella T6 5w-40w Synthetic oil for diesels helps them out.
Do you have OBD bluetooth or wireless adapter? Most standard OBD tools will not pull the OBD codes and even fewer will pull the enhanced Ford-specific codes.
What brand IPR did you use?
IPR, CPS should definitely be Ford only OEM.
ICP is preferred to be Ford OEM, but I am using the International version/numbered part (out of Japan) with good results.
Do you have a tuner or programmed chip or programed PCM?
What is your outside temp? You can try plugging in your truck about 4 hrs or so, in case your glow plugs are not working properly.
Hope this helps.
I used a OEM IPR, damn thing was expensive and my lady stood next to me in shock lol.
It's warm here right now in Colorado, high 50's, 60's and 70's. Even when it was negative outside, the truck would start but it would take a good couple long cranks. The batteries are not good but when charged, they will throw up 10-11v under cank, I will boost them this weekend and try again.
The HPOP Res is full, only about a quarter inch from the top, maybe just a little less but id say a quarter inch.
when I crank her, it takes a solid 5-8 seconds for the oil pressure gauge to move but when it does, it goes to the normal position.
A side note, I am not cranking for more than 10 seconds or so at a time, maybe 15 seconds..
The truck use to have a chip from the previous owner but it was removed and set to a stock tune when I purchased it.
I am going to do the oil this weekend and do a 5W-40 change as the original I had put in was 15W-40.
I am just trying to think what blew while accelerating that caused a skip that would cause no ignition. I don't think its HPO due to the fact that even after the CEL, the truck did NOT go into limp mode and drove ok for another 10 minutes or so until I got to work.
The check engine light went away and so did the skip when driving, it was only present during idle.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 10
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From: Colorado
I will also try this... At this point anything is worth trying before she's towed to the shop. ha
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 32
From: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
These are the same things I have to do with the 2003 E450 7.3L box truck that won't start. But I'm now waiting for better weather next week. Ran out of time this cold week
Hope something gets it started for you
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,910
Likes: 2
From: Hat Creek Ca
I believe that you mentioned reading 10 - 11 volts while cranking. 10.5 V. is the absolute minimum required to fire the injectors. Might want to check/clean all of your battery connections, bright "silver" is clean. Anything else is an indication of oxidation = high resistance.
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