Not sure where you are but I got my rebuilt booster from Cascade Friction Materials Inc in Tacoma Wa. It was sitting on the shelf.

Brake & Clutch Supply

There's probably a LOT of places all over the country that do this. I think I bought my (new) front single piston wheel cyls from NAPA. I was able to rebuild the back ones (2 per wheel)

Cascade said they send "core" boosters to Portland Or to a place does a LOT of them.
This was back in 2004 but I think they still do it. There's still a LOT of trucks into the 60's that use them. I seem to remember there was an F-600 model in the 60's that was the first year for the split manual type master cyl that actually used 2 hydrovac boosters (one for the front and one for the back) THis is my second choice for split-system brakes if I cannot make a newer Superduty split hydraulic booster MC work.

 

Update: chained the spare I had for the truck in three spots and placed it under our skidsteer bucket. Let the air out of the tire and popped the rim down. It indeed is split. Due to the limited budget I am hoping to find something that will work at the truck shop I work at. No popping, no injuries (most important).

 

I had a Les Schwab Tire center ( https://www.lesschwab.com/ ) break down 6 wheels and tires. They told they could not give me the wheels back because they were widow makers.

They were able to find me 6, 3-piece "snap-ring" wheels from a company in Pasco Wa for about $200 each. (blasting, powder-coating and shipping included) They also sold me 2 new Toyo 9.00-20 radials for the front and 4 recapped 9.00-20 radials for the back. The whole deal wasn't cheap, but I got complete set of (6) good, safe, wheels and tires.

I would probably go to Rickson Wheel now though. I would want them to custom make 5-lug 19.5" wheels so I could use modern 19.5" radials available anywhere! Rickson Wheel Manufacturing

 

Finding the 20" locking side ring wheels cheap anymore is getting harder and harder. And living in Michigan, as the member does, makes rust an issue to guard against on any found in salvage yards. The factory new 19.5" or 22.5" wheels from Wheels Now, Rickson, Schwab, etc. won't look exactly like old wheels but would be an easy fix. I've gotta think, though, that finding an old motor home in a yard wearing a set of Budd 89340s and 8R19.5s is the cheapest fix for a part time use vehicle. Over the years I've found many like this with old but useable tires. I don't have any sets right now. They also come up on CL regularly. Stu

 

Checked at work today, we have 10 bolt rims that would have temporarily worked, however International uses a larger hub that what is on my truck. Was given a suggestion of maybe something off of a ford superduty? Would probably have to drill out the lug holes...

 

If you try to redrill lug holes please know that the Budd mounting has a "ball seat" with a .875" spherical radius of the seat. Not easily replicated. And attempting to use a straight hole such as would exist on a hub piloted wheel would provide no centering mechanism for wheels on hubs. We've seen some talented guys make centering collars or full adapters to permit adapting modern wheels to old hubs. Stu

 

If there had been a "Wheels Now" 89340 when I was looking, I would have bought them!

They don't list a price but I have to assume that they're somewhere around $250 or more each?

 

Yeah, that's the price range. Their 22.5s are slightly more, but not a lot more. Tickles me that they've adopted the old Budd 89340 number for the new 19.5s. Stu

 

My 22.5 American Wheels were $295 (not counting the new tire).

 

Thanks Bob. I'm thinking that as close to original as those look, they are out of budget at this time. I will definitely save up and hope to purchase them in the near future. I have a couple tire shops near me looking for cheaper alternatives. Truckdog, our equipment dealer has tapered locks to put on under nuts and/or bolts to center wheels. Will have to see if I can find a tire that it would work with. Hopefully my tire stores call back with a decent alternative.

 

Yeah those TOYO's aren't cheep! I have two of those in 9.00-20 on the front of my F-600. The diameter is such that it just fits without rubbing!

Do you know what the overall diameter is for the 22.5's? Are they bigger than 9.00-20's?

I wish I had gotten 8.25-20's but Schwab couldn't get new TOYO's in that size.

 

The 9-22.5's are the same diameter, rolling radius, and width as the 8.25 x 20's (don't remember what it is right offhand). I got all my tires and wheels through Schwab.

 

The 8.25-20s and 9R22.5s are spec'd at about 38" depending on tread design. The 9.00-20s and 10R22.5s are 42" iirc. Stu.

Edit - I knew I shoulda looked it up first. The 10R22.5 and 9.00-20" spec between 40.1" and 40.85" depending on tread pattern. Stu

 

I actually measured mine with a tape and got 40" (unloaded) which results in a 504 rear wheel RPM @60mph,

I wonder why these wheel manufacturers can't put more "handholds" in these wheels. 2 just doesn't "look" right!!

 

I suppose it just depends on what you are used to seeing, and what you are most familiar with. What I found convenient with the two "hand hole" design is that the air valves are in the same hole. I will speculate also that the reason for the larger raised centerpiece is to allow for more fitment options from a single stamping, and possibly better brake heat dissipation.