So I have the luk full ceramic clutch now, this is my second one (about every year it needs replaced) and it's getting close to needing a new clutch again. Right now my 7.3 is sitting at 442hp and 864 TQ. Im Building a forged rod motor with the idea of getting 5-550 HP to the wheels out of it and hitting the 1000 TQ mark. What clutch will hold that and not chatter and try to knock my teeth out like my current clutch. The closer to a stock clutch engagement feel the better, I hate backing up or starting out with a load more than 10k (I have to start in low, or 4wd low to backup). Truck is a 01 crew cab, on 35's stock gears may be going to a 6" and 37's in the future but that's it.

 

Southbend dual disc 'street clutch'. This clutch is smoooooooth and has a very positive feel. Not the 'off or on' from older pulling or racing clutches. Rated for 650hp. I'm installing a 2nd one now. Both trucks have full engine builds with ported and polished heads, cam, hybrid injectors, T4/S369sxe (the other one is an S468), etc. They should be 550-600hp. The first one has about 2k miles on it now and has done some towing - including the dreaded backing heavy trailer up a hill slipping clutch. It is every bit as smooth as the SB Con OFE in my dually. (Con OFE is only rated for 450hp)

 

What is happening to your Luk clutches? Are you using all of the friction material? How many miles? What are you doing with it? (Towing, racing, sled pulling?)

The Con OFE is ceramic on one side and semi-metallic (I think?) on the other side. I got 125k miles or so out of mine - with lots of 'abuse'. Many passes at the drag strip and several sled pulls at just under 400hp.

 

I just DD the truck with a weekly 7-8k tow load and a once or twice a year 20k ish tow 2,000 miles round trip. But my last one the clutch disk itself was fine. It ate the flywheel and pressure plate up. I got about 30k out of it. This one is around the same milage but i will be sitting there with it in going over a speed bump or something and it will just start grabbing off and on and start making the truck jump. Almost as if one of the pucks came loose and is jumping around in there grabbing and not grabbing. Kinda weird, but Luke won't warranty the clutch (it's mention for stock HP trucks). So I am going to spend a little more money this time and get a better clutch if not I'll be throwing a auto in it. Driving it with the jumping on starts is getting really old. But that is the clutch I was going to mention on here (SB street dampened dual disk clutch rated at 650hp). Was going to ask everyone that has ran one what it acted like. But right now I just have the 38r with 238-80% injectors. But the new motor will be getting a 3series turbo and a water meth kit (mainly for egt's) and a new hpop.

 

Right now my tow tune is 400hp and 806 TQ so at a minimum the clutch needs to handle that pulling a 20k load.

 

Call Southbend and ask for their recommendation.