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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

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Old Aug 30, 2003 | 01:24 PM
  #1  
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

Hi, all -

I was trying to loosen a hold-down screw in my exhaust system, but the screwhead stripped out (probably not the right term, but I hope you know what I mean) with very little encouragement. I tried an EZ-out, but the biting edges wouldn't catch within the screw.

Any suggestions on where to go from here? Vise grips on the head? A slightly bigger pilot hole and a re-attempt from the EZ-out? Carbolic acid?? Any ideas are welcomed. Thanks...
 
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Old Aug 30, 2003 | 01:42 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

Most Easy Outs work by drilling a hole in the screw, inserting the EZ out, and using a reverse electric drill to remove the screw.

What I have done is drill a pilot hole, drill out the screw until it is paper thin, use a needle nose to pull the rest of the screw away from the threads, and chase it with a tap just to clean the threads.

Where exactly the screw is, how vital it is, and how big it is, will determine how much effort and time you want to put into it. Sometimes I just drill something out, put a 1/4 inch grade 5 or 8 bolt and nut on it and call it a day.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2003 | 02:47 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

you might also want to try heating the area around the bolt with a torch that seems to help break loose some tough fasteners I have fought with.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2003 | 02:53 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

There are several threads here with ideas on freeing rusty bolts and broken fasteners so you might want to try the search function.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2003 | 08:43 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

Get the BLUE TIPPED WRENCH!
hehe j/k
I hate EZ outs, they work but are a PITA
All the ideas listed here work also.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2003 | 08:59 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

Andys got the easy answer. Use the "gas axe"!! Not sure what rebocardo means when he says, " use reverse elec. drill to remove the screw." On using an easy out you first drill the broken fastener with proper drill size for easy out required. Then tap easy out into drilled hole with hammer. Then using "open end adjustable wrench" (cresent), adjust wrench to fit flat portion of easy out and turn counter-clockwise (on right handed threads) until removed. If you do have left handed drills you can often use a punch to get a center point of broken fastener then carefully drill. The heat and friction will often remove the "frustraton causer" by itself.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2003 | 02:02 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

If there's still a head on the fastener, you could use a dremel to slot the head and then use a flat blade screw driver to remove.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2003 | 03:10 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

Originally posted by 76supercab2
If there's still a head on the fastener, you could use a dremel to slot the head and then use a flat blade screw driver to remove.
Thank God for the Dremel guys :P
I used to do this act w/ a hacksaw or something of that nature.
Hope you get it out.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 12:12 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

use some penetrating oil and try again tommorrow with the easy out but go easy if you break the easy out off in it your screwed,I always strike the head of the bolt with a sharp blow from a ball pein hammer if possible before I attempt to loosen it if possible
 
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Old Sep 8, 2003 | 03:31 AM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

When I snap a head off I just spot weld a nut or bolt to it and then just unscrew it out.
I used to drill and tap but after I learned to weld it is so easy.

twinbulls
 
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Old Sep 13, 2003 | 01:58 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

...try a set of left twist drill bits
 
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Old Sep 13, 2003 | 10:21 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

I use a dremel on screws and a MIG on bolts. Welding a nut on also shocks the bolt looser.

(funny, the word shocks created a link)
 

Last edited by terryr; Sep 13, 2003 at 10:25 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2003 | 03:21 AM
  #13  
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

For an easy out, I found it's best if you drill all the way through the bolt, and drill as big a hole as you can.
And for exhaust manafold bolts, I was taught to always run the engine to warm the block and bolt.
On an old FE head, like on the 390's, it's mandatory or not only will you break the bolt head off, but you might even break the thin part of the head where it's threaded through, and I know from personal, "expensive" experience.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2003 | 10:05 PM
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

every heard ot PB blaster they sell it at oreilly's is amazing the only thing the directions on the can don't say have patience and go slow can make a 20 min job a 2 hour or more job.
also just look the type of easeout your using is it a spiral, flat or fluted. over all the fluted type work the best in my book, spiral bite is distributed to evenly and seemed just to round out the wall and stick harder, flats work good onsome metals but you only get 4 sides to dig and their all in line, fluted easeouts wrinkle the bolt making pockets between threads allowing the oil to work it magic and then heat is a wonderful thing to. unless what your trying to get out is bigger than a1/2 bolt and propane torch works the best too much heat and hurt more than help
 
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Old Sep 19, 2003 | 02:00 AM
  #15  
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When an EZ-out doesn't work?

PB Blaster has been mentioned a lot of times in this forum and others here. There is a whole thread here on different types of oils and other methods of loosening bolts. You can use the search function to find them. I usually use the candle trick when PB fails, candle wax has not failed me yet. You are right about the various types of easy outs. The main problem with easy outs is if they break off but there is a nice thread here on how to take care of that problem also.
 
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