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I'm in the middle of doing the job on my truck right now, among several other projects.
You need the Timken hub bearing assemblies. The hub bearing is not serviceable. You'll find that there are course and fine thread versions for the wheel studs. Mine needed coarse threads but I think yours may be fine thread. It does go by the year but I don't remember the cutoff.
There aren't any plain bearings for the front. I don't know what rockauto is selling but I noticed them when I was picking my parts out too.
Some people do service the hub bearings, but you have to make a special doo-dad to squirt grease into the ABS fitting. There is also a smaller needle bearing that the axle shaft rides on that is supposed to be serviced every 60k. If that bearing isn't serviced (it rarely is), then it can dry out and grind against the stub shaft. If the shaft is scored at all, it will need to be replaced or it will chew up the new bearing quickly. Because of the design of the hub, that bearing is always in contact with the shaft and moving even when you're in 2wd.
There are also axle seals (aka vacuum seal, aka two-piece seal) that fits in the knuckle and a dust seal that fits into the end of the axle housing. There are also differential seals for each axle shaft where they fit into the center section. Just make sure you get the right seals.
I would recommend using ONLY Timken or Spicer parts unless you want to revisit the fun in the near future. Also make sure your axle u-joints are in good shape while you have it apart. If there is any question, they are only about $40 a side to change.
Some people do service the hub bearings, but you have to make a special doo-dad to squirt grease into the ABS fitting. .
this is only a feel good practice....there are 4 seals in the bearing system and the cold crease would have to get thru to seals before it got to the bearing.
either truck hub oil, or 250wt tractor manual tranny gear oil would work better since it would seep past the seals....BUT....if you have leaking auto hub components...the oil will leak onto the ground. so between the work auto hub leaks and the worn bearings...you are better off replacing as an assemble since the bearings are sealed and lubed for life.
If the front bearings are meant to be a lifetime of the vehicle, would I be wasting money replacing the assemblies when the vehicle has 200k miles and visible sign of leakage?
If the front bearings are meant to be a lifetime of the vehicle, would I be wasting money replacing the assemblies when the vehicle has 200k miles and visible sign of leakage?
Bearing Hub assemblies, $180 - $250 per side, Seal kit, through my local ford dealer, $125 per side find seal kits cheaper on ebay. Seal installer about $80,
But, you have up to $750 in parts, 4 to 8 hours worth of labor if you're doing it yourself and have all the tools. It'll cost you, $1100 - $1800 at a shop (Dealer).
If the truck is solid and has had good maintenance on the drive train, I don't see why you wouldn't invest, but it's totally your decision.
Oh don't forget to check your ujoints on the driveshaft while you're down there.
The front bearings are not designed to last the life of the vehicle. I think you're reading too much into the post that said "the bearings are sealed and lubed for life." That refers to the life of the bearing, not the vehicle.
Life of a wheel bearing is all dependent on how the truck is used and maintained. If you have heavy loads, drive around corners fast and heavy, run oversized tires, this all affects the bearings. Preventative maintenance is the key to any component lasting. I just did mine at 135,000, The PO didn't do a lick of service and the were were completely shot along with upper and lower ball joints. I replaced a tie rod that was bad also, but really need to go over the whole steering system this spring. I'm lucky because I only use the truck to haul about 3000 miles a year, if that, other than that, it'll sit parked.
The bearings alone are for 2wd trucks. The 4wd trucks use the unit bearings which are not serviceable. You can force grease in through the ABS hole (I do it) but with 200k miles on the clock I'd just replace them. Timken and SKF are good units.
I believe only the earlier trucks (99' and maybe some 2000) used the fine threads on the wheel studs. If the unit bearings don't come with new mounting studs (4 per unit bearing) I'd get new ones also, along with new nuts. I replace the hardware while I'm in there. With 200k and 12+ years on the clock the old studs and nuts don't owe you anything anymore. Saves time removing the old studs and the nuts may get damaged upon removal.
The bearings alone are for 2wd trucks. The 4wd trucks use the unit bearings which are not serviceable. You can force grease in through the ABS hole (I do it) but with 200k miles on the clock I'd just replace them. Timken and SKF are good units.
I believe only the earlier trucks (99' and maybe some 2000) used the fine threads on the wheel studs. If the unit bearings don't come with new mounting studs (4 per unit bearing) I'd get new ones also, along with new nuts. I replace the hardware while I'm in there. With 200k and 12+ years on the clock the old studs and nuts don't owe you anything anymore. Saves time removing the old studs and the nuts may get damaged upon removal.
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