2008 6.4 CC 165K miles

First off, Thanks to all for adding to the site, first time Powerstroke owner I have learned A lot from the site.
Secondly, I’ve been scouring the net the past week on the topic . . and I don’t believe it’s the UCVH’s. I’m thinking I may need new PCM. I have had P0201 for quite some time (been working on it for a while because it had sat for about 6 months) and so I initially took out both UCVH’s and cleaned hoping it was a dirty connection. I did this because the front cover had a hole in it and filled the crankcase with coolant –now fixed. I thought this was a good opportunity. After reassembly and GearboxZ DPF-R I now have P0201, P0206, P0208. Runs Super Rough, have let idle for about 15 minutes to circulate the fresh oil before draining. I still see traces of coolant after that one change –could it be the moisture form the coolant messing with the connections under the valve cover? I disassembled, again, and took these readings from only the right side :
Resistance from PCM connector to injector clips, both sides + and – on 1, 3, 5, 7 came to be either .2 or .3 Ohms
I checked voltage on grounding circuit and all came to be 10.3V exactly.
I checked injector resistance:
#1 180 Ohms
#3 180 Ohms
#5 190 Ohms
#7 Hard to reach.

Checked Injector clip resistance on the UCVH Key off.
#1 491 KOhms
#3 480 KOhms
#5 490 KOhms
#7 490 KOhms

It appears, at least from my numbers that there isn’t a thing wrong with #1. I plan on pulling the Left cover this weekend to see what values I get for 2, 4, 6, 8. I also have a couple glow plug control module codes along with TCM U0101.

Any direction is appreciated, as the tires are starting to dry rot.

 

Should I look to swap injector #1 with #3 and see if the code follows, or should I lean towards an injector buzz test ?

 

if you swap injectors the fuel lines are 1 time use and have a special torque procedure.

to get my valve covers off, I had to disconnect the steering shaft, remove and reinstall all chassis bolts....then with one side loose....remove the bolts on the side I was working on ...while basically lifting the front of the chassis 1 inch and the back 2 to 3 inches or until I was able to see the bolts and connectors I was dealing with .....from the side with wheel wells removed.

big time bleed air out of the line challenge when working on the injector lines.

I would personally not waste my time play swap and check....the electrical components in the injectors are one aspect of their functionality and you should think about them as light bulbs...light bulb will work at 99.99 percent wattage and then blow out. unless you have the time to be replacing them one at a time as they fail.

you should check for indications of mechanical problems with the injectors...pull the fulfiller on the engine and if it is black...you have high wear on the injector seats...the black is blow by from the combustion process...soot getting into the fuel system.

look at your rocker tips while your are in there and if you find bad tips..then also check for bent push rods by rolling them on a large glass surface.

 

Thank you for the reply. Agreed, I have heard the lines are a one time use and would probably resort to swapping parts as a last resort. The wheel wells were removed when I got the truck to begin with.

I'm not sure I have run the truck long enough to have anything visible. It's only ran about 20 minutes at idle total after fuel filter change and yes, priming this thing was a bear. Had to make a banjo fitting eventually on the rear of fuel cooler. The only items I have not wrenched on this truck yet are the cylinder heads and HPFP.

Speakerfritz, are you suggesting a buzz test?