no one has any idea on what they would build for a stroker?

 

You buy the stroker kit and install it? As far as how big, as big as your wallet will allow correct?

Here's a link. I have always been too poor to put a stroker kit in any of my engines. Ford Engine Kit - Ford 460 Stroker Kit, Big Block, 502, 514, 521, 532, 545, 557, Stroker



460 cubic inches


This is a stock style setup, featuring a 3.850" stroke and bore sizes ranging from 4.390" to 4.440". Whether the kit is intended for stock replacement or racing, various levels of compression will allow for improved performance with emphasis on top-end power and high RPM.


502/514 cubic inches


This is a mild stroker setup, featuring a 4.150" stroke and bore sizes ranging from 4.390" (502) to 4.440" (514). This kit is a good balance between top and bottom end power, making it ideal for many applications. Various levels of compression make these kits great for all types of setups - naturally aspirated or with power adders.


521/532 cubic inches


This is a bit more wild of a stroker setup, using a 4.300" stroke to produce even more displacement than the 502/514 combo. This configuration will be a bit more bottom-end heavy than the others, with less emphasis on top-end power. Great for applications where high RPM aren't as important, such as street/strip running either naturally aspirated or boosted. Bore sizes range from 4.390" (521) to 4.440" (532), with compression ratios from low to high.


545/557 cubic inches


This is the most radical Ford Big Block stroker setup, using a long 4.500" stroke to produce a huge cubic inch displacement. Due to the long stroke this combo makes monster torque, although at the expense of top-end RPM. Regardless it is still a great setup for street applications where the RPM aren't extremely high to begin with. Applications from low to high compression, making them great for any configuration. Bore sizes range between 4.390" to 4.440".

 

Given your goals I would go with a 4.3 kit and the Trick Flow heads (they DO make these in 3 or 4 different runner volumes)
Cast crank and pistons with I-beam rods will be fine for NA and under 6k.
Also keep costs down.

78cc chamber and 22cc dish will be under 10.5:1 with your .030 overbore.
Anything less and you will need a bigger cam to keep dynamic CR down for use with pump gas.
(more cam will hurt bottom end, defeating you stated objective)

Why not buy a combo from one of the guys over on 460 Ford or 429/460 and get the whole thing.
Balanced rotating assembly, assembled heads and a custom ground cam.
Scott or Lem will sell you a proven combo for far less cost in machine shop or risk on your part.
Depending or rod and piston chosen you may have to deck your block.

 

im kind of new here how do i get aholde of scott, or lem?


also after speaking with a few guys and doing a ton of research i have chosen the following.


cl34-250-4 for my cam
tfs-53410001 for my heads
EDL-7566 for my intake


now i have not bought anything yet so im still up for some discution and opinoins.
the other question i had was about compression.
-38 dish pistons 74c chamber and deck height is unkown.. will my compression be to low? i dont want it to ping but at the same time efficency is always nice.

 

What pistons are you considering? What block are you using (early or late)? I can crunch the numbers and tell you both static and dynamic compression ratio with your cam choice. The cam is probably leaving some power on the table. Many guys running big inch strokers end up going with a custom grind.

 

This thread might be better covered in the performance engines 385 subforum farther down the board.

Yes, deck height changed around '73
But with a .045 head gasket you are losing quench if your pistons are anywhere in the hole.
Pin height is just another variable with a stroker kit.

The suggestion of a custom grind is always a good one, and a large part of my suggestion for buying a 'kit' from one of the builders that have done this *many* more times than any of us as individuals would in a lifetime.

Tires, gearing, weight, headers, miles to be traveled etc all play a role in choosing a combo that will help you actually drive this on the street.
600hp is not too hard given the money you seem to be ready to sink into this, but you are always going to have problems getting it to the ground.

Breaking **** left and right gets old fast.

 

SCA-1-95105 is the rotating assembly im looking at.
weight will be what it is.. its an f250 with a big block motor.. im moving the tank to the rear bobbing the frame to make it a short bed. ladders in the rear. front end im not sure for suspention yet. tires will be wide but more of an all terain highway tread. tires will be stock high. tko 600 tranny. the rear end is a dana 60 with 3.73 gears for now.. i will change the gears if i feel the need.. maybe looking at 3.55 to get a longer run befor shifting. the motor is a d9te-ab block i belive. externaly ballanced. headers are yet to be determined. will be running long tube headers but not sure on brand. will be running 3" exhaust.. the travel can be short like 15mins to work. and then from work i could go to the river 1 hour away.. there will be short and long runs... stop light racing. country road racing. maybe hit the track for fun one an a great while. "cadunkle" the block is above. the pistons and crank assembly is above. not sure on the piton to deck clearance..

 

what kind of custom grind would i be looking at getting.. i need a good idle. im the first to love a loping cam sound when some nice mustange is sitting at the parts strore.. but im also the first to laugh when it dies and hardly starts back up.. to me hotrodding is not the most power... its about the tunning to make it usable power and user friendly.. howerver is im leaveing power in the table with a generic one size fits all grind i would love to look into a custom grind... working with mostly boosted and directly injected diesels i am new to the cam meaning so much for power.. with the diesels we build its simple.. duration and lift to get the most in without hitting the valve to the piston..

 

So, it is the 'tall' truck block (which is fine)

Shortening the truck and moving the fuel to the rear isn't going to help making it more driveable.

By distance traveled i meant how long you hope to drive it between teardowns.
At close to triple the output of a stock 460 you need to think of things like valve spring pressure -and therefore cam profiles- if you intend to put 50k on it without maintenance.

 

oh i see.. well i put about 20k a year on it so 50k would be fine with me.. i planned on a flat tappet cam and hydrolic lifts so i dont have to do the valves all the time.. planned on running the springs on the trick flos just the way they come.. my thoughts were to make the ci so large and only ask about 600 hp should help keep things together... the shorting the truck and moving the tank will help with weight transfer and traction..
when you say its a tall block what does that mean? i know the exteranly ballanced motor are better for stroking because the cyl are longer (closer to the crank center line) is the deck height taller as well? if so by how much?

 

... And this is why i suggested advice and a package from one of these guys that has been doing exactly this every day for the past 30+ years.
(You don't win Engine Masters by throwing together a few parts from the Summit catalog)

If youre just after a number then go ahead and do what ya gotta do.
If you want something that lasts and has manners then consider the knowledge available when you speak to one of these guys.

I know Scott has over a dozen cams grinds made by Delta.
Im not sure who Lem uses.

 

i 100% agree.. i would love to talk to someone with all the info thats why i made this post to begin with.. how do i get ahold of scott? i would love to see what he has to say! and thanks for all your guys help this far!

 

Im on my phone so opening websites in other tabs and insterting links is a pita.

Look up Reincarnation High Performance in Tacoma.

 

Stock Ford heads have crappy exhaust ports.
This isnt so much an issue with aftermarket heads but an assemetrical grind is still called for.
(ie a Chevy grind on a Ford billet like many cam companies do is going to suck)


He may tell you youd be better off with 500hp, a wider curve and more engine life.

 

email send! hope he has some good insite!