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New VP Modification thoughts

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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 09:59 AM
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New VP Modification thoughts

Installing this new VP to my 7.3 IDI that has Banks Turbo 2nd Gen which drain into the VP grommet where the OLD CDR use to live. In the past i have experienced major oil backing up and endless mess with the OLD VP ( BTW the old VP is exactly the same design as this one if any one curious), to get around it back then i tried to put a few holes from top with ice pick style to let it drain better than backing up but i failed to do so and if i did wasn't deep enough or big enough due to limited space, angle and turbo obstructing my hand. Today its a different story since i have a new VP .


I am trying to fix this issue for Good. i believe placing a 1" hole in the bottom between the 2 existing holes ( marked by the arrow in the pic ) will tremendously improve the oil drain down and back to the oil pan. However what about the Top plate (the small distribution try under the Grommet hole) WILL placing a 1" in there right under where the Banks turbo drain tube goes will do magic ( Since was that the GO TO solution to start with).

I am basically trying to fix this for good, any thoughts/ suggestions will be greatly appreciated





 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:18 AM
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don't know if it matters much, as long as the oil drains.
but I would put several 3/8 holes in it do disperse the drainage on the cam.
many ways to skin the cat, but only 1 way to BBQ them!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by IDIoit
don't know if it matters much, as long as the oil drains.
but I would put several 3/8 holes in it do disperse the drainage on the cam.
many ways to skin the cat, but only 1 way to BBQ them!
Will the 3/8" holes go to the top and bottom or just to bottom, i feel the more is Better but i know you been deep with them IDI's
 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:35 AM
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id go through both.
all it is, is a baffle
honestly, with my ATS093,
I failed to put holes in my VP,
and I have not had 1 issue.
on either engine that's been in my truck.
just make absolutely sure you get all the shavings out.


this is why people prefer the ice pick method,
but a sharp punch on an air hammer from the top, would eliminate all metal shavings.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by IDIoit
id go through both.
all it is, is a baffle
honestly, with my ATS093,
I failed to put holes in my VP,
and I have not had 1 issue.
on either engine that's been in my truck.
just make absolutely sure you get all the shavings out.


this is why people prefer the ice pick method,
but a sharp punch on an air hammer from the top, would eliminate all metal shavings.


You Brought up an Excellent Point on the sharp Punch with air hammer, Pretty clever. I was actually wondering my self about the metal shaving. I had an awful experience with the old VP which left me with bad taste so i took it personally

I will experiment with the Old VP and test the air hammer
 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 11:34 AM
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do not do this with a uninstalled valley pan or intake!
it can distort the VP
before you even take the intake off, pull the turbo and try, altho the engine on a stand would be a lot easier.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by IDIoit
do not do this with a uninstalled valley pan or intake!
it can distort the VP
before you even take the intake off, pull the turbo and try, altho the engine on a stand would be a lot easier.
OLD VP is on the floor new in the Box. Might not get the precision with the air hammer as i will with the dril, magnet and hola lot of air and some carb cleaner to get any shaving out
 
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 07:16 PM
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I just drilled a hole through mine with a 1" bit
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 06:48 AM
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I did the same thing drilled a 1" hole from top thru the upper baffle, bored the bottom holes bigger with 5/8" bit and placed an additional one in the center.

I am certain that this will do the JOB for good, the oil should flow down like mud slide


thanks everyone for your input
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 04:10 PM
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One last thing to ask which am pretty sure that is been cover before ..

what at the RTV of choice to use

I have Permatex Black ( oil resistanc )and the ultra Gray for( high tourque ) , the felpro tube that came with the VP

Also I was considering the Permatex Right Stuff its pricey but my local diesel shop swears by it
 
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 06:16 PM
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I bought a big tube of right stuff for reasembly.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
I bought a big tube of right stuff for reasembly.

From what i been reading its the way to go. Thank you
 
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 09:02 AM
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ultra gray will harden and crack.
ultra black has worked well for me.
permatex anaerobic reminded me of curdled milk.
permatex aviation is messy, and stays tacky.
the right stuff is #2 on the list.
#1 is a tube of international T-442


of course neither of these worked for me while resealing
my timing cover 3457871 times.
but that may have been because it had a cracked block
 
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by IDIoit
ultra gray will harden and crack.
ultra black has worked well for me.
permatex anaerobic reminded me of curdled milk.
permatex aviation is messy, and stays tacky.
the right stuff is #2 on the list.
#1 is a tube of international T-442


of course neither of these worked for me while resealing
my timing cover 3457871 times.
but that may have been because it had a cracked block

The difference between ultra black and the Right stuff is that, i have the ultra black right on the bench but need to go spend $15 for the Right stuff


And oooh i forgot to Say that i have a Brand new Tube of VictorReinz that i bought last year thinking i have leaky Diesel VW oil pan



The VictorReinz tube show it expired back in 10/15 but it was never open so i am not sure if that makes any difference
 
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by R1racer
The difference between ultra black and the Right stuff is i have the ultra black but need to go spend $15 for the Right stuff
so eat ramen noodle for lunch and get the right stuff, pun intended.
 
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