Help please!
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Help please!
2003 f250 5.4 v8, did plugs and coils this weekend, now the o2 censor went out, all I could get on my code reader and the one at autozone was its the bank one side, didn't specify 1 or 2 censor, it was running to lean, so I bought a censor for it and the tool needed to remove it, I located the first censor right under passanger door, currently waiting for truck to cool down so I can get in there and replace it, ACCORDING TO AUTOZONE both censors have THE SAME PART NUMBER, I would just like someone with knowledge of these trucks to confirm this and perhaps shed some light on my issue, truck has 283k on it, and I've only owned diesels for the past 5 years so I'm feeling a little out of my element with this issue, just trying to save some cash and do it myself since I'm not rich with my first child on the way! Thanks all and have a great day!
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What I forgot
I also checked for vacuum leaks, couldn't find one, replacing the fuel filter aswell today, and I cleaned the throttle body when I did the plugs, when I start the truck it drops to 400-500 rpms then sky rockets to 2000 and back down for 1-2 minutes until truck gets warmer, then when driving it's very laggy until it's at operating temp but agai still a little laggy for a few seconds then it's okay until I stop, idled in normal range atleast I believe 500-800 rpms but when I get on the gas it's laggy for a second or two again, autozone also suggested seafoam to help the injectors get cleaned up, is there something I can be missing here? Could a CAT monitor sensor cause this type of issue?
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From: Bozeman MT
O2 sensors go out and need to be replaced, normal.
RPM jumping until the truck gets warmer is something else, not the O2 sensors. It could be the idle solenoid on the back of the throttle body, there is also a ground strap back there that needs to be connected, or it is a crack on the intake manifold which is very common on that motor, or remotely possible that your MAF sensor is failing as it does heat up during motor start. None of which would throw a code until the component completely failed.
RPM jumping until the truck gets warmer is something else, not the O2 sensors. It could be the idle solenoid on the back of the throttle body, there is also a ground strap back there that needs to be connected, or it is a crack on the intake manifold which is very common on that motor, or remotely possible that your MAF sensor is failing as it does heat up during motor start. None of which would throw a code until the component completely failed.
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I replaced the o2 censor, went to autozone because my code reader decided to die and 10 min of idling in the lot n truck died, bought that idle control valve, but would that affect my sluggish acceleration? Also replaced the pcv valve since I couldn't hear anything moving internally on it, so am I basically down to idle control valve or MAF? First few moments of acceleration are basically like driving a 6.0 powerstroke with bad stiction issues, that's what it reminds me of
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Air filter is K&N and it is clean, and I got some of that crc MAF cleaner, and that stupid idle valve behind the body, do I just spray the little wire that runs across in the censor itself? And spray lightly is what I've been reading
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Air filter is not the intake system by K&N just their version of the oem filter in the stock box
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From: Bozeman MT
Why do you think the intake manifold is fairly new?
First do a search on youtube as there are tons of videos on this situation, look for the common failure points on the intake manifold.
You can test the intake manifold in a couple ways, start the motor and immediately do the following before the motor has come up to operating temperature:
- spray MAF or Carb Cleaner onto the mating surfaces between the intake manifold and head, as well as the intake manifold runners, if there is a leak then the Carb Cleaner will draw down the motor RPM as it is sucked into the intake
- do the same twenty minutes late when the motor is warmed up
Not an exacting approach but it could highlight a problem, though Carb cleaner will take debris with it. There are other chemicals you could use, Carb cleaner won't increase the RPMs.
First do a search on youtube as there are tons of videos on this situation, look for the common failure points on the intake manifold.
You can test the intake manifold in a couple ways, start the motor and immediately do the following before the motor has come up to operating temperature:
- spray MAF or Carb Cleaner onto the mating surfaces between the intake manifold and head, as well as the intake manifold runners, if there is a leak then the Carb Cleaner will draw down the motor RPM as it is sucked into the intake
- do the same twenty minutes late when the motor is warmed up
Not an exacting approach but it could highlight a problem, though Carb cleaner will take debris with it. There are other chemicals you could use, Carb cleaner won't increase the RPMs.
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So I go out there and the one thing I didn't check was how it is with MAF unplugged, so I unplug it and guess what, it acted like it should, stabled out idle, I'm gonna give a a little drive and see how it works, no leaks or cracks in manifold thank god haha
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