My 2016, F250, diesel, 6.7L, LB, 4x4, Crew Cab coolant overheats on long desert hills when towing a 10600lb Montana 5th wheel. I probably add another 1400lbs in supplies, cats, and the wife for a total of 1200lbs. The truck is rated for 15.1KLbs. The blower is only at 20 PSI, the trany temp is fine and I don't feel I am pushing it hard. When I see the temp gage rising from about the normal 12:00 position I slow down to about 40 MPH, gear down and turn the AC off when I get 2/3 of the way up the hill. I don't let the coolant gage get above the 1:00 position (2:00 would be in the red zone). I drove the system X-country putting on 8K miles and only had problems in the desert. The temps ranged from 80F to 115F. I understand some challenges at 115F and thin air but not at 80F. The dealer says there is no problem but offers no help. I am guessing that the cooling system is under designed and there are a couple of radiators in from of the main radiator pre-warming the air. Anyone else with this problem? Any good aftermarket solutions? The cats get really angry when the AC is turned off.

 

Ok, not sure of where 12 noon is or the others. I am not understanding.


Normally mine will set just left of center on the guage. Sometimes on a long grade it will get to just right of center and normally will cool down.


I have gotten it to 3/4 on the guage a number of times without issue and it keeps it in check.


So have you ever checked the oil temp guage to see what it is reading?


Heres the thing, as soon as the needle on the coolant begins to move to the right of center you should start to hear the clutch fan. Should sound like an airplane under the hood.


Also before you start the truck in the morning, have you ever checked the degas bottle for the coolant level?


In my mind you are worried about because a lot of times it does not move. Remember when working hard you are creating heat. It is different than a gas motor.

 

Something doesn't sound right about your turbo. You say its only pushing 2psi, which is really nothing when going up hill towing... Towing my 5er just on the level highway at highway speeds, I'm pushing 10psi or more. When I had a turbo CAC failure I had no turbo pressure, and my engine temps went way up.


How does your power feel? Without a turbo, it would be pretty anemic....

 

I am wondering if he is indicated 2 but it is actually 20 psi.


The guage is X10 multiplier.

 

Yea, I was wondering that too. Hopefully he will come back and clarify.

 

anti-freeze level
clutch fan
stuff between the radiators. leaves/grass/stuff.


Take it IN... warranty..

 

First and foremost, these motor are completely computer controlled and there is very valuable information available to you. Step into the 6.7L Diesel section and ask around.

As an example, you can see exact temperatures for EOT and ECT as well as the transmission, as well as the turbo boost. All of the information helps to tell the story of what is and is not going on.

Then, you can also see any codes that are set by the engine management and the transmission.

For iPhone I use ODBLINK MX Wifi to monitor my truck. Others use an Android device with an app call Torgue or ForScan, connected with simple ODB dongles you can buy with Prime shipping.

At a minimum, it helps to understand what a dealer is going to have to diagnose to solve any real problems.

 

Thanks for the reply. The coolant level is good. 12:00 position would be straight up. I use the clock-dial reference so I can describe the other needle positions I saw. I definitely have not heard the "fan clutch kick in just right of center" up to about the 1:00 position. Perhaps I should just let the heat build and hope that the clutch kicks in to save the day. I just didn't want to get stranded in the desert with the wife and cats. I did try to push it near home on I-15 between Barstow and San Diego, but there were no issues with the steeper but shorter hills and probably denser air. My recent troubles were on I-40 in AZ at 85F and long grades.

 

I believe I am reading the gage incorrectly. It gets to the straight-up position which is 20 PSI.

 

I would take the truck and trailer out by yourself locally and work it till your temp guage gets going to the right, you should eventually hear the clutch fan come on.


Alternatively since the clutch fan is electronic the service dept can command it to come on to verify it works.

 

Thanks for the clarification. Your original post says 2psi.

 

So does the truck actually overheat? To me it doesn't sound like it is.

The ECT needle moving upwards means nothing. The needle is supposed to move! your working the truck, yes its going to get warm! thats ok! As long as it doesn't hit the H on the gauge, its not overheating.

These are Dummy guages in a way - there is computer logic to how the needle moves, but at least in these trucks it DOES MOVE. Many it doesn't.

In my truck the normal position on the gauge is between about 190 and 210F ECT. It then starts ascending after 215F ECT, and only ends up on H at like 240F. EOT plays a part too - I have seen the Engine Temp gauge in different places depending on the EOT even with the same ECT. If EOT goes over 250, no matter the ECT, it goes to H.

I've overheated it a few times outside of Vegas, at that point the needle goes to H, the DTC lights up and says to pull over and cool down and starts dinging at you.

You really need to get a real set of gauges or Torque with a Bluetooth ODB adapter to get a good idea on temps. My guess is your overreacting to the needle moving, and the truck is within operating temps.

 

I suggest a ScanGauge II which is available on Amazon or at Auto Zone or even from an FTE vender, FICMrepair.com. They carry Ford parts at one heck of a discount too. There is an option to buy the ScanGauge fully programmed too is you aren't a computer nerd. I like the ScanGauge because it is easier to read than my phone.

 

Nice advice Copper.Farm. I have an Iphone, which of the two ODBLINK apps do you prefer?

 

I have to drive 2 hours to get to a hill that will overheat it, but it is probably worth the effort. Thanks for the heads up about the service department's ability to command the fan clutch "ON'. I was unaware it was electronic.