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So, I have an 85 Class C van body with 460. I've always had horrible gas mileage(3mpg) but this year I can't get the old girl to start. I get fuel flow up to both bowls when I crank it over, and engine will kick on ether. First trying to figure out which carb is on this thing. I took pics of the tag on the carb, and numbers on side of choke which are posted in my gallery. So far when I google these I either get it is a 4180 or a 9510. In reading around some of the forums I'm torn on either rebuilding this one or getting a new one. I'm not very educated on carbs but the guy who helped me remove all emissions extensive vacuum lines (in hopes of improving mileage, wrong) had told me that this carb wasn't very user friendly in making adjustments. If it was just he not starting issue this year I would lean towards the less expensive rebuild but with mileage issue and now this I'm thinking more of replacement.
My questions to all you fine educated folks.
1. Which carb do I have?
2. Possible issue with not starting?
3. Rebuild or new?
4. Hoping for to double mileage (normal range for motor home is 6-7)
4180 is the model number. 9510 sounds like the list #. Have you done a complete tune up as pertains to the ignition ? If the ignition is out of tune, that makes it harder to start, no matter what carb is on it. Tune up on this includes new cap, rotor, wires, plugs and the timing set. Timing should be set to around 12* BTDC.
Plugs wires cap rotor yes last year but not timing set. Lyme scared of messing around with timing since my last moor home I didn't have set right and snapped front of cam shaft. But once again it does try to start on ether.
Get the timing set. Ether's bad for a motor, it makes it easier to start, but over time, it gets addicted to it.(yea that sounds crazy, but it's true) I don't see how you snapped the cam with the timing being off. More likely the timing chain jumped teeth and that put everything in a bind.
Plugs wires cap rotor yes last year but not timing set. Lyme scared of messing around with timing since my last moor home I didn't have set right and snapped front of cam shaft. But once again it does try to start on ether.
I agree with what everybody said ..but I would like to add this.... ditch the Cat ( could be plugged) and go Dual exhausts...I also reccomend buying a New Holley or edelbrock carb ...if you don't feel like rebuilding yours.....On my 460 I have the timing @ 13..but I have a Square Bore 850 Dble pump and a Performer Intake ....and I don't care about mileage since it carries heavy wieghts short distances....
Let me clarify myself. Timing set I was thinking of changing the timing chain set, not setting the timing. I replaced the timing chain on my last motor home with the 460. Not knowing the need of making sure the new one was put on exactly as the old when I went to start it the bottom gear shattered and the head of the cam shaft was still attached to the top gear but not to the motor. Lesson learned, look at chiltons before not after.
Yes I did set the timing when doing the tune up last year and being I've only put maybe 20 miles on it since I'm not looking to do it again.
In reading on the 4180 I'm seeing that it is not a very adjustable friendly carb so would I be better off replacing instead of rebuilding. I'm a cheap skate so like the cost of rebuild instead of replace. I just don't want to put money into this one to get it running now without also possibly fixing my low fuel mileage issue.
Did you install the True roller Set with the 7* Keyway...? https://www.summitracing.com/int/sea...illocation=int
Something like this ..... the 7* you can retard or Advance the cam.... advance is for HP and Retard is for Tq
I have a piece of paper that says I am a Mechanical Engineer....but I am Roofer and a Mason ....BUT I did not forget what I was taught....I took a few Engine courses for fun at a local College ....Alll it did was re-inforce what I already knew.....My 77 460 Truck is a Hot Rod...Just read my sig. It can smoke the duallys ...I left the key alone ....but I have dual exhausts and MSD Stuf and a 4:56 Dana 70 FF rear....It has 90K on it ....it is a 77......from a lincoln...
Let me clarify myself. Timing set I was thinking of changing the timing chain set, not setting the timing. I replaced the timing chain on my last motor home with the 460. Not knowing the need of making sure the new one was put on exactly as the old when I went to start it the bottom gear shattered and the head of the cam shaft was still attached to the top gear but not to the motor. Lesson learned, look at chiltons before not after.
Yes I did set the timing when doing the tune up last year and being I've only put maybe 20 miles on it since I'm not looking to do it again.
In reading on the 4180 I'm seeing that it is not a very adjustable friendly carb so would I be better off replacing instead of rebuilding. I'm a cheap skate so like the cost of rebuild instead of replace. I just don't want to put money into this one to get it running now without also possibly fixing my low fuel mileage issue.
Here's the cheapest way to go: Watch Ebay and find a little used Holley, something like an 1850 600 cfm or a 3310 750 cfm. When you get it out of the box, replace the powervalve and the accelerator pump diaphragm, these are the only two rubber parts that tend to dry out and rupture when the carb is bolted back on and run. When I say, "little used" I mean just that, a carb that looks like it hasn't been out of the box long. There are lots of these out there, these two numbers are the most popular Holleys and the most common, and thus you'll pay less for them. The 600 will give you a crisper throttle response, but to keep the secondaries from opening too soon (giving lower fuel mileage) it'll need the stiffest secondary spring. The 750 will work great on a 460, the throttle response will be a tad less crisp, but not so much that you'll miss it. I've bought two like this, paid about $100 for both and ended up with two great low buck carbs. Too many give up on them as they never take the time to learn how a carb works and how to tune them. They also ignore the ignition tune, which is half the battle in tuning a carb. 90% of the time when you think the carb is "out of tune", it's not the carb causing it, it's the ignition's fault.
Not sure if you have a 4180 on it now but if you post a picture we can get a much better idea of your set up.
I like my 4180. Once you knock the anti tamper plugs out you can adjust the idle mixture screws. The idle mixture screws are a pain to get to but once you've got the idle dialed you shouldn't have to mess with it. The float height is also adjustable Right on the vehicle.
Changing to a different carb is not a simple thing. You have to adapt the throttle linkage and tranny kick down, and the fuel plumbing.
If you've got the stock cast iron intake it's got an "ear" on it that matches the EGR plate the stock carb sits on (IMO EGR helps with gas mileage) so it's all engineered to fit together. Check and see if you have to change intakes if you go with a different carb. Probably not but best to make sure.
If it's the stock carb and otherwise complete rebuild it with a genuine holly rebuild kit.
So, I have an 85 Class C van body with 460. I've always had horrible gas mileage(3mpg) but this year I can't get the old girl to start. I get fuel flow up to both bowls when I crank it over, and engine will kick on ether. First trying to figure out which carb is on this thing. I took pics of the tag on the carb, and numbers on side of choke which are posted in my gallery. So far when I google these I either get it is a 4180 or a 9510.
9510 isn't listed in Holley's "List" numbers chart. That could be Ford's part number for a carberator. As I said before, 4180 is the model number which is unique to a Holley/Ford 4 bbl carb used in the 80's. The "list" number should be stamped into the choke horn on the carb.
Well sounds like rebuilding with replacing the power valve is the common consensus On a 460 forum I recently read a post of a guy wanting to better fuel economy and an answer was to rebuild the 4180 with replacing the jets. Once again carbs are not my Forte. What kind of adjustments due carbs normally have? I'm thinking of the kind on a chainsaw where you have idle adjustment, low and high end fuel mixtures. Are these the same? Where of I knock off the covers I should be able to dial in idle and fuel mixtures at both low and high rpm ranges? I'm hoping if I rebuild this carb and get it dialed in, replace egr, make sure vacuum is all correct that this will increase my mpg to a more normal range 6/7. Other than cam,intake manifold, exhaust is there anything else I can look at while I've got the carb off?
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