Front suspension issue, 2005 4x4
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Earth, (land portion)
Front suspension issue, 2005 4x4
I had the front springs replaced awhile ago (W code, ford parts), and I would get some rubbing on the front right tire to the rear fender well liner when turning all the way to the right. If you backed off an couple of inches on the steering wheel, it would usually go away.
I just checked the front to back wheel gap between the fender and the wheel and the right hand side is ~3/4" further back than the front. The truck has not been wrecked. I did not think you could mis-place the axle on the springs. Is there not a hole for the location of the mount that sits between the axle and the spring has a little pin sticking out of it? Have I remembered incorrectly?
Can I or should I have the axle re-positioned on the spring? Other options?
Thanks.
I just checked the front to back wheel gap between the fender and the wheel and the right hand side is ~3/4" further back than the front. The truck has not been wrecked. I did not think you could mis-place the axle on the springs. Is there not a hole for the location of the mount that sits between the axle and the spring has a little pin sticking out of it? Have I remembered incorrectly?
Can I or should I have the axle re-positioned on the spring? Other options?
Thanks.
Last edited by Stewart_H; Feb 17, 2017 at 07:06 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Measure from the center of the bolt of the front spring eye to the Front of the shock mount and the rear bolt to the back of the shock mount. Do this on the drivers side and passenger side.
Me thinks somebody put one of your springs in backwards. The center pin is not in the middle of the leafs length.
Me thinks somebody put one of your springs in backwards. The center pin is not in the middle of the leafs length.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Depends on your tools and resources. If you can put it on a lift and have air tool then I'd think flipping 1 spring would be a fairly simple task, if you have a crescent wrench and a bottle jack it's gonna be a bitch. ( and dangerous )
New User
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Conroe, TX
I actually have the same issue on my 01 7.3. My driver side has always rubbed when I make a hard left turn. I thought it was due to the lower joint, but that didn't fix anything. Then when I lifted it, I thought it would go away, but still there. I know the springs are on right. My only guess is that I'm out of alignment, but not by much if any. I need to measure mine to see if I have another issue.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
I actually have the same issue on my 01 7.3. My driver side has always rubbed when I make a hard left turn. I thought it was due to the lower joint, but that didn't fix anything. Then when I lifted it, I thought it would go away, but still there. I know the springs are on right. My only guess is that I'm out of alignment, but not by much if any. I need to measure mine to see if I have another issue.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Earth, (land portion)
Well, I got some time this afternoon to get under the truck and measure up some points. At first, I thought it was going to be obvious like Pirate said since the wear marks of the bump stops were obviously off to each other.
Measuring from the front spring eye bolt to the top half of the casting that clamps on the springs though, was a solid 1/16" difference.
Confused, I measured the distance from the eye bolt of the spring to the front mounting bolt of the bump stop and there was a 3/4" difference. Position of some holes must not be too critical in position....
Could the front eye bolt be drilled off by the 3/4" and with the original smaller tires, no one would ever care? I'm on 285/75r16 duratrac's vs the 265/70r16's that the orignal BFGs were, but the new tires are a lot wider (more ballon shape vs the straightness of the BGFs.)
While underneath there, I notices the body bushings were all cracked and bulged. Can that be where some of the problem is?
I'm not sure how the track bar would effect the front to rear setting, since that should be controlled by the spring perch location.
Ideas? Thanks.
Measuring from the front spring eye bolt to the top half of the casting that clamps on the springs though, was a solid 1/16" difference.
Confused, I measured the distance from the eye bolt of the spring to the front mounting bolt of the bump stop and there was a 3/4" difference. Position of some holes must not be too critical in position....
Could the front eye bolt be drilled off by the 3/4" and with the original smaller tires, no one would ever care? I'm on 285/75r16 duratrac's vs the 265/70r16's that the orignal BFGs were, but the new tires are a lot wider (more ballon shape vs the straightness of the BGFs.)
While underneath there, I notices the body bushings were all cracked and bulged. Can that be where some of the problem is?
I'm not sure how the track bar would effect the front to rear setting, since that should be controlled by the spring perch location.
Ideas? Thanks.
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Some pics would help
Specifically of the front mounts on both sides
The ubolt/shock mount to leaf area on both sides
The rear shackles both sides.
Have you had it aligned recently ?
Body mounts. From your description it sounds possible the body mounts are so rotten/blown out that the body is sitting crooked on the frame. If this was so I would expect to see the rear wheel openings also off by a similar amount as well as possible clearance issues with the radiator and fan as well as the steering column.
Specifically of the front mounts on both sides
The ubolt/shock mount to leaf area on both sides
The rear shackles both sides.
Have you had it aligned recently ?
Body mounts. From your description it sounds possible the body mounts are so rotten/blown out that the body is sitting crooked on the frame. If this was so I would expect to see the rear wheel openings also off by a similar amount as well as possible clearance issues with the radiator and fan as well as the steering column.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Earth, (land portion)
Bringing this thread back from the dead.... Finally had some time to look at it (while changing brake pads) and re-took some measurements. From the center line of the front spring bolt to the center line of hte shock mount. Drivers side 28.0 inches. Pass side 28 3/8". Pass side is the side that is rubbing.
Body mounts show cracks but they are not missing large chunks. Just lots of vertical stress cracks.....waiting to fall off at some future point.
Tires are 285/75r16 duratracs which are a 33" tire. The rear inner fenders at the bottom where the tires rub, are not held back by any brackets or such, so over time, I'm sure they have curled inward towards the tire. Maybe the best option is to add a block between the axle and springs? At least during normal usage, there would be no rubbing.
Pirate, I see in your pic a set of bars to lift the front end. any driving issues after the install? Should I add a caster wedge to help return the steering wheel to center?
Thanks.
Body mounts show cracks but they are not missing large chunks. Just lots of vertical stress cracks.....waiting to fall off at some future point.
Tires are 285/75r16 duratracs which are a 33" tire. The rear inner fenders at the bottom where the tires rub, are not held back by any brackets or such, so over time, I'm sure they have curled inward towards the tire. Maybe the best option is to add a block between the axle and springs? At least during normal usage, there would be no rubbing.
Pirate, I see in your pic a set of bars to lift the front end. any driving issues after the install? Should I add a caster wedge to help return the steering wheel to center?
Thanks.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 63
Likes: 1
From: Earth, (land portion)
There is nothing to pull the fender liner back against without making a bracket. Tom, your on 35s according to your details, what lift do you have in the front? Or, what is the fender to centerline of the axle length. Thanks. Tom.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,052
Likes: 1,550
From: Media PA
I'm not by my EX right now, but I found something under there to cable tie the plastic liners back to.
I only needed to move them a fraction of an inch to avoid any rub there.I am running OEM X codes with the top B code overload leaf added to the X codes, that combo gives me 3 7/8" of lift over my stock ride height. My tires are Nitto Duras in 305/70R18E and are 35.28" tall. I just checked this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...easurents.html and in post #9 my front measured LF=26 3/4" and RF=26 1/4".
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
93F150&69Stang
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
9
Nov 28, 2015 01:31 PM
dots
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Feb 28, 2005 11:05 AM