I posted this in the Super Duty forum and received a recommendation to post it in the 6.7L forum for additional feedback.

I have a 2011 F-250 6.7L I purchased used in 2013 with 17k miles. Now the vehicles has approx. 75k miles without any issues.

I purchased the 6.7L because we were planning to purchase a 5th wheel and I wanted to have plenty of power to pull. Unfortunately, the plan for a 5th wheel has changed, so the need for a diesel is really gone.

Because the mileage is reasonable and we have not had any issues with the truck, my thoughts are to sell/trade it. Resale value would be good right now and I am honestly concerned about something going out and costing a fortune to fix.

I really like the truck and the way it runs, but I know repairs/maintenance are costly. I hear all kinds of horror stories about the 2011 6.7L's and large repair costs. I know this does not apply to all of the 2011's, but I also know if it happens, it's not cheap. Not to mention the fuel issue....

My thoughts are to sell/trade it and purchase a used 6.2L gasser. The truck is nearly paid for and I don't want to get into a big vehicle payment, so I could use some objective thoughts/recommendations from the experts. I am not pulling much with it anymore, so I could honestly get away with a 1/2 ton, but I prefer the 3/4 ton.

Keep the 6.7L and drive it till it dies or unload it now while the getting is good and get a gasser?

Thanks!

 

Get out of that 2011, even if it is a late 2010 or later build date.

get a gasser if you do not pull heavy or drive a lot of miles in a year or preferably both. Just too expensive of a risk otherwise.

 

I buy a truck about every 5 years. I bought a very early 2011 truck, Built in July 2010 and ran it 145,000 miles with very minor problems. I bought a 2015 truck, Not because I was worried my 2011 would fail, But more for the business tax reasons.

But to give you a rough idea of what kind of repairs I put into my truck
And these will be rough mileage numbers, I'm not going to dig thru my records for exact mileage

60,000 miles New Shocks $300
80,000 miles New Batteries $220
80,000 miles New front brake rotors and calipers with pads. $600-$700 Had a frozen caliper on the slide pin that ruined the rotor
100,000 miles New steering dampener $200 Death wobble showed up, So swapped out dampener to try and fix it
105,000 miles New Front Hubs/Bearings $800-$900 Wobble persisted and fix was to replace hubs that were going bad
120,000 miles Coolant Inlet on turbo failed $600 Normal maintenance
About that same time I flush Coolant and tranny $300-$400
125,000 EGT sensor 2 went bad $40 I had spares under seat, But it shut truck down
140,000 Oil inlet on Turbo failed (parts only I did the work) $220
145,000 EGT sensor 4 failed $40

I'm not sure they didn't damage the Turbo Oil inlet when they swapped out my Turbo Coolant inlet. If one fails, I'd probably swap out both while I had the turbo off the engine and everything was easy to get at.

So you can see there are a few things you can expect to work on as these trucks age. A lot of them ( Brakes, Hubs, Steering etc) will be the same problem diesel or gas. The EGT sensor issue seems to be fixed, I'm not hearing folks having problems with them since Ford reprogrammed the trucks. Most of these repairs are cheaper than a new truck payment.

 

Thank you for the replies. The truck was built in 2010. I cant remember the month, but it was built in 2010. Does that really make a big difference? Were the ones built in 2010 better or worse than those built in 2011?

 

Help! I have. 2016 f250 super duty I purchased in June with only about 30k miles. Monday I had my tires rotated and the tire guy said he adjusted my tire pressure for towing ( I told him we would be towing this weekend) My sons says he filled them 60 front 80 back. I complained about low tire pressure light not turning off, was told it would rotate itself off after a few miles. Then I experienced the death wobble for the first time ever at about 50-55 mph!! Truck is fairly new and never had this issue before! What is wrong?

 

There is a valve breakage issue on trucks built before April 2011. If you made it this far, yours might not break.

 

Two things; you took it to an idiot for the tire rotation, and you may have a bad tire causing the wobble.

 

Check the lug nuts, if this came up after a rotation, the wheel may be loose, this has happened to me.

 

as far as I know the tpms sensor goes off at 68psi and resets above 70 or so. with your tires being at 60 they should not reset. Also does it tell you somewhere to set your tire pressures like that? I've not heard that before.

 

I have a February built 2011. I had the EGR code set and had to have my cooler replaced and my right side quick connect before the one that connects to the engine mounted fuel filter let go. Both were repaired under the ESP warranty. Everything else I consider normal wear i.e. tires and brakes. I love my truck but with that being said I've been waiting for the turbo to fail because of the ceramic bearings and for the number 8 cylinder t drop its exhaust valves. They may never happen. I don't know so I don't go nuts over it. I just realize everything is going to be more expensive on a 6.7. If I wasn't willing or able to do my own mechanical work I would not own one out of warranty unless you were independently wealthy. But like I said I love it.

 

To the original question. If you trade it in you will be hit hard most likely. Dealerships are in business to make money and need to make a profit from your truck.
It doesn't look like you are in a hurry and don't NEED to sell. Find a price that you think is fair and post if for sale with possible trade for a gas truck. Lots of online options for selling a truck, craigslist, Facebook and many others.
There is no need to take a $5,000 or $10,000 loss to save a few grand.
I would agree you might be better off with a gas truck, but again, no need to loose money in the deal.

 

update: Ford found the tire was more worn then the other 3 and should have never been rotated to the front, also my suspension stabilizer had a crack in it. Tire is being moved to the back until replaced ( Farely new tire) and the suspension stabilizer is being fixed. This should correct the issue. Tire pressure and a worn tire apparently are very dangerous issues with ford trucks!

 

I am not sure what is going on with this thread...?? Seems like someone's post got merged with my thread.

 

Yes, it did go out into the weeds at post #5. Strange.

Anyway, I am coming from a 2002 7.3L (traded my '99 5.4L up to the 2002 when it was around 10 years old) to a 2015 6.7L, so my opinion of gas vs.diesel is probably weighted toward keeping the diesel for those times when you do want to tow.

We started camping in RVs by renting bumper pull 24-31' travel trailers when we had the '99 truck. We pulled from Texas to Ohio a few times, around a 1000 mile trip. That truck was always shifting from OD to 3rd, and a few times to 2nd!

Then we got interested in bigger RVs. You can't really rent 5ers because the hitches are so expensive to install. At any rate after having to trade up because we wanted a 5th wheel, just having the power of a diesel for towing a utility trailer to get soil or mulch, pulling a friend home with a broken down car, etc. has made me really appreciate having the extra torque.

It seemed like I was periodically having to do things to the '02, but I think over the 6 years I owned it I might have put a few $1000 in it, but nothing major.

I am in tune to the fact you are asking about a 6.7L, but your post also seemed to ponder about the diesel vs. gas thing. I would have a hard time giving up the power after having it. You never know, maybe your plans could change back?

 

I decided to trade the 6.7L and downsized to a new F-150. Overall I am happy with the truck and the deal I received.

I purchased the 5.0L engine and while it's not the 6.7L, it is very responsive and I am pleasantly surprised.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions and information.