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Couple of things that strike me here.
Again, you are hurting on the charging side of things, unless it' cold enough and your GP's are still on, you should be at 13.5 or higher. If that is right after you fired it up then you might be ok but I would confirm it climbs up over 13.5 after a bit. If not then you will be looking at FICM issues which you don't appear to have right now.
The other thing that concerns me is you didn't have the knock before the hydrolock. It's pretty telling that is appeared after that fact.
And most likely a bent push rod. Crank it with the battery jump wire, listen to the intake for the thump, then the tailpipe again
Might be able to tell intake or exhaust valve.
I haven't paid much attention to the charging volts but I just had an electrical issue, and after that I did check it while running and it easily went to 13.5+ after the fix. I saw bumblebee04's pic and his was at 12.0 on a cold start so I thought mine was ok. I'll definitely double check it, but I don't let it run too long with it smoking like it does in my driveway.
When you say it's pretty telling that the knock appeared after the hydrolock, are you thinking a bent rod or burnt piston? I had a bore scope and looked around the best I could but I'm not real sharp with internals like that. The frequency of the knock is definitely in tune with a stroke. I may just need to pull the #8 injector and make sure it looks OK. I resealed all 8 injectors a few weeks ago, but I don't trust my torque wrench as much as I should. I may just go back through that whole side and recheck all of them, and definitely reseal them all tomorrow. It's not super hard to do and I may find an issue.
Sorry I just read these last 2 posts. Has anyone ever seen a bad FICM cause thick smoke? I know they can cause all kinds of issues including smoke, but mine is definitely what I would call thick smoke. I may be towing it to a mechanic soon it sounds like. Maybe I'm grasping at straws.
Try this. Using the starter wire (bullet connector near passenger side firewall: see pic below) crank the engine with the key OFF. While it's cranking listen carefully. It should be a smooth, consistent, & even sounding while cranking.
But if it sounds like it is skipping a beat while cranking then you have an uneven compression on a cylinder possibly from bent pushrod or valve ect...
Post your results. If unsure video the test and post link.
Sorry I just read these last 2 posts. Has anyone ever seen a bad FICM cause thick smoke? I know they can cause all kinds of issues including smoke, but mine is definitely what I would call thick smoke. I may be towing it to a mechanic soon it sounds like. Maybe I'm grasping at straws.
From your readings your FICM looks just as healthy as anyone else here, have my doubts it's the issue. A valve(s) not opening or closing/seating properly will make things interesting if that is the issue.
Sounds like your charging might be ok if you are just starting it and shutting down before the GP cycle is done.
Yeah I know the FICM numbers look good, but I've seen many posts where their numbers were fine but it was still fried. I've had this FICM in and out so many times now, and I actually replaced the board once and it didn't help my issue at the time so I put the old one back in and returned it. I know that's bad but I didn't have an extra $200 laying around. I also replaced the harnesses on it a while back and the wires are in ugly shape. I can actually push down on the center loom and kill the truck. It's ran like that for about 40,000 miles, but maybe after time it's just cooked it.
Yeah I know the FICM numbers look good, but I've seen many posts where their numbers were fine but it was still fried. I've had this FICM in and out so many times now, and I actually replaced the board once and it didn't help my issue at the time so I put the old one back in and returned it. I know that's bad but I didn't have an extra $200 laying around. I also replaced the harnesses on it a while back and the wires are in ugly shape. I can actually push down on the center loom and kill the truck. It's ran like that for about 40,000 miles, but maybe after time it's just cooked it.
O.K. Wait a minute. You have a known harness issue like that and didn't repair it? What are we doing here? Post after the repair.
If it is in fact a push rod there are worse jobs. You can pull injectors so you can likely do this job, it does take a special tool. I might be wrong but I think they actually use the same push rod as the 6.4 now, slightly shorter. Fact is I think that is all you can get from the dealer IIRC.
That ^^^ is correct. Same length as the 6.4L, .50 shorter.
I agree, you need to fix the harness issue.
As mentioned earlier... if the ICP was plugged in and reading zero, it needs replaced and could lead to the high HPOP pressure. Could need a new pigtail and if the connector is oil soaked, replace both.
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