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For best mpg shift at a relatively low rpm like 2500 and use moderate throttle, and don't use the engine to slow down when coming to a stop like all the ricers do everywhere all the time, shift into neutral and use the brakes.
For best mpg shift at a relatively low rpm like 2500 and use moderate throttle, and don't use the engine to slow down when coming to a stop like all the ricers do everywhere all the time, shift into neutral and use the brakes.
You can calculate the power band, but it's easier to feel it. You can do this by accelerating without flooring it and there is a point where the acceleration slows. To keep mpg up, shift right when you reach the point of diminishing return. Drive it enough, and you will be one with the machine. You'll be able to feel when to shift.
Or, calculate by transmission gears and rear gears and let the tach be your boss. Either way, the shift points will be pretty similar.
I'd shift it just after you scatter the crank, for an excuse to drop in a 351W ;-)
Kidding of course. I have minimal experience driving standard trans so feel free to ignore me, haha.
No 351W for me! This thing dies, it's a 300 or bust.
Originally Posted by FoxFord33
You can calculate the power band, but it's easier to feel it. You can do this by accelerating without flooring it and there is a point where the acceleration slows. To keep mpg up, shift right when you reach the point of diminishing return. Drive it enough, and you will be one with the machine. You'll be able to feel when to shift.
Or, calculate by transmission gears and rear gears and let the tach be your boss. Either way, the shift points will be pretty similar.
Is there a program to do this? I have 0 idea how it works haha.
For best mpg shift at a relatively low rpm like 2500 and use moderate throttle, and don't use the engine to slow down when coming to a stop like all the ricers do everywhere all the time, shift into neutral and use the brakes.
Ok, when does downshifting ruin gas mileage?
I downshift(gee, does that make me a ricer? Ok, whatever ), as it saves wear and tear on brakes around town. You aren't on the gas pedal so no fuel is being put into the engine. So NO affect on fuel mileage. It doesn't wear out the clutch either, if don't correctly.
Driving a stick is not difficult and if you LISTEN to the engine it tells you want it needs. Not all trucks come with a tach, so you can't rely on that every time.
This is my first manual vehicle, I'm at a loss of when to shift for the best MPG possible and not lugging motor.
Its a 1990 F150 RCSB with an M5OD, a 302 and 3.55 gears. Is there a way to decode when I should shift or anything like that?
Wish I would have seen this sooner, I would have paid attention to where I shift when I drove to work this morning. If I remember, I'll watch when I go home today and post up. Same basic drive line as you so it should be close
Someone from Montana who hasn't driven a stick enough to naturally know the feel of manual shift points...
At any rate, opinions, like rectal orifices, are universal. (Some stink more/less than others, but most everyone prefers their own )
You need to learn how to down-shift. Particularly in an emergency situation. Its not just for ricers. It helps you have the power band in the proper place should and if you need it.
If you want to know the exact place to shift, buy & install a vacuum gauge.
Fueling is dependent on rpm so yes it's still getting more fuel than an idling engine. Any yes it will put more wear on the clutch unless you "do it right" and speed match the engine which again will cost more fuel. And what's easier and less expensive to replace.. brake pads or the clutch?
Not true on Ford EFI. The injectors are shut down on decel.
A rule of thumb for best shift point for mileage is to shift at or near the torque peak RPM. On your 302 that is 2400 RPM.
Perfect, stupid me thought it was 2500, haha
Originally Posted by Conanski
Fueling is dependent on rpm so yes it's still getting more fuel than an idling engine. Any yes it will put more wear on the clutch unless you "do it right" and speed match the engine which again will cost more fuel. And what's easier and less expensive to replace.. brake pads or the clutch?
Brake pads.
Originally Posted by Scndsin
Wow.
Someone from Montana who hasn't driven a stick enough to naturally know the feel of manual shift points...
At any rate, opinions, like rectal orifices, are universal. (Some stink more/less than others, but most everyone prefers their own )
You need to learn how to down-shift. Particularly in an emergency situation. Its not just for ricers. It helps you have the power band in the proper place should and if you need it.
If you want to know the exact place to shift, buy & install a vacuum gauge.
Good luck & congrats on new purchase.
I'm actually from the awful, terrible state of "Missouruh"