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Well it seems mine is broken or breaking from yall guys. I've had issues of running out of diesel at 1/4 tank but didn't think anything of it. As yall know I've had air intrusion issues and only getting worse. My question is ford wants $66 for replacement strainer. But I don't want it to fail again I saw people cut a upside down v shape on a fuel hose and use that or could I get a cheap aftermarket strainer and rig it up to the line with hose clamps? Which would be best? I do have the fuel filter and the smaller fuel filter with the Facet Duralift e pump
I"ve looked for those strainers. I've seen them on that national auction site for sale for only around 30-40. I may have same problem with front tank. rear tank works fine. dead at 1/4 tank
The V in the hose that you attached to the tank pickup is a great temporary fix solution. you could also theoretically install or create a pickup screen out of a large faucet head with just the screen attached to that pickup.
So what i did was i found this screen in the tank in the midst of getting all of the old shower head pick up tube out. i got a hollow screw put it in the fuel hose with the screen wrapped around it and clamped. idk if it really makes a big difference but why not i mean it was on the old one. i also cut a v in the fuel hose.
just an idea its been working fine ever since its been about 2 yrs too.. i keep telling myself im going to put on the right pick up shower head units but then i gotta pull the bed again...........
Very Nice Patch work. That's what I"m talking about. Even better with the hose clamp. Great example. I just can't believe how bad the original shower head disintegrated. There should be a recall for faulty design/defective material.
Gives me a better idea when I work on mine. I don't think you have any reason to change that until is possibly gets clogged and you have fuel supply issues, but a dab of fuel additive should keep the tank clean. I am a believer in diesel additives for assuring additional lubrication for the lack of sulpher and prevention of sediment that can form from as a result of the modern refining process and subsequent reaction with moisture in the air and in your tank.
I"m sure the large shower pickup was to allow for minimal resistance in fluid pickup over a long period of time with minor buildup. Now the bypass was a great indicator to tell you when you ran out at 1/4 tank you have a problem with a clogged or broken pickup. And maybe that's why they gave us two tanks knowing this would eventually happen. Never drive with one tank empty or low or both tanks below half.
Thanks for the info and pics. I'm going to do this exact same thing but with stainless steel mesh. Only question is what should I put in the hose to make it strong enough for a clamp to latch on it without crushing the hose
Now I was reading and someone said use submersible furl line. I found some at oreilly auto but is $30 for a foot..if I use regular gates fuel line how long would it hold up?
How long is a piece of string? That underrated fuel line may last the life of the truck, or being submerged in diesel all the time, it may fail in months. But not using submersible-grade hose is defeating the whole purpose of doing this mod, which is to supposedly last longer than the stock showerhead that's available for $30-ish on Amazon.
I have to wonder how long that worm gear clamp is gonna last, and how long it will stay tight on the hose and screen before working loose from vibration.
Yeah, I'd definitely go for the more expensive stuff. The cheaper stuff seems to get hard and brittle after a few years if it gets exposed to oil/atf/diesel. On the other hand, if it's not exposed to such, I've got a piece of 10+ year old fuel line that's still flexible and 'good', despite being in service and exposed to diesel on the /inside/ constantly.
Ford has strainer for 66. Oreilly special order for 37....but if i get the strainer it would just fail again at some point. Why not fix the issue permanently
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