300 six interchangeability
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: douglasville
300 six interchangeability
My 300 lnline six in my 84 F150 is getting a little tired and rightfully so, it has nearly 500,000 miles on it though I personally rebuilt it in high school that was still 20 years and close to 400,000 miles ago. So I am going to have to replace it or rebuild it again and have for a while, about a year ago I bought a 1977 300 six with only 31,000 original miles on it for another project that never happened. Can I use this 77 engine in my 84 or is there some difference in the block/ head that would stop me? the major difference I have noticed is the oil pan and dipstick location, the 77 has a mid sump pan whereas my 84 is a rear sump and my oil dipstick is in a different location. Other than that I would have to use my carburetor, intake/exhaust manifold and distributor off the 84 because the 84 has the feedback carburetor and TFI distributor and all that is there and working not to mention I want to keep the truck as original as I can by keeping the feedback system intact. If anyone knows if I can use the 77 engine in the 84 truck I would appreciate the help. Thanks
Tuned
Joined: May 2013
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Does the 84 have a six in it now or setup for one? If so there are probably only minor differences between the 2 trucks and engines.
Also I would recommend transferring over the non feedback ignition and carb.
Also I would recommend transferring over the non feedback ignition and carb.
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From: Virginia
The dipstick can be a problem. I know on some of the v8 blocks they had a small hole back there with a plug in it that you can take out to move the dipstick to the rear. Look your 77 block over carefully and see if it has a spot back there.
Also on the v8's some of their rear sump pans had the disptick mounted in the pan. I do not know if the 300 six had a pan mounted dipstick but that would be a solution also.
Also on the v8's some of their rear sump pans had the disptick mounted in the pan. I do not know if the 300 six had a pan mounted dipstick but that would be a solution also.
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From: Virginia
It seems they do make a rear sump pan for a 300 with the dipstick in the pan. One of them is Dorman 264-024. In this link they say it has a dipstick port.
Dorman Products - 264-024
Now you need to find a dipstick.
Dorman Products - 264-024
Now you need to find a dipstick.
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From: Angier, NC
If he wants to use the 77 block and as he said would move the 84 intake/exh manifolds over along with the dist. as he wants to keep it stock and it all works so why cant he also swap the 84 oil pan over to the 77 block?
Only reason I can see it not working is if the front and/or the rear lips are not the same between the 2 blocks.
Dave ----
Only reason I can see it not working is if the front and/or the rear lips are not the same between the 2 blocks.
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
If he wants to use the 77 block and as he said would move the 84 intake/exh manifolds over along with the dist. as he wants to keep it stock and it all works so why cant he also swap the 84 oil pan over to the 77 block?
Only reason I can see it not working is if the front and/or the rear lips are not the same between the 2 blocks.
Dave ----
Only reason I can see it not working is if the front and/or the rear lips are not the same between the 2 blocks.
Dave ----
Either he has another spot for a rear block mounted dipstick and can move it back, or he will have to get the other pan with the dipstick in the pan.
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From: Angier, NC
Ok I think I got it now and will look over my 81 motor, the later sticks are in the rear of the block where the early blocks (77?) did not have this and may not be able to make this work so he would have to use rear sump pan that takes a stick in the side of the pan.
Dave ----
Dave ----
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: douglasville
The 300 that is in the truck has a dip stick that threads into the block just behind the distributor, the 77 engine has an "interference fit" dipstick that goes slightly in front of the distributor but I believe it has the hole behind the distributor for the thread in dipstick that is blocked by a small freeze plug but I really dont remember and it will be another week before the 77 engine is at my house to compare it. I have also considered doing an "in frame" re-ring of my current 300 since I recently replaced the cam, lifters, oil pump and pickup and rear main seal. I think the only problem is the valve guides and stem seals but I am afraid if I just get the head done then it will cause the piston rings to fail, if I were to do this I would have the head done by a machine shop, replace the rings and the pistons if necessary, hit the cylinders with a bottle brush hone just enough to break the glaze and put him back together until something else breaks. We do this at work with cat, cummins and detroit engines all the time with no issues so I couldnt imagine it being a problem with my little 300, Thoughts? Thanks for the help guys
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From: Angier, NC
On the "rebuild" I would say if the block side is with in spec then go for it and send the head out for a rebuild.
I did an AMC 360 v8 this way for my drag car,had no money or time to make a race and why it was done. Got to say it ran pretty good too.
Dave ----
I did an AMC 360 v8 this way for my drag car,had no money or time to make a race and why it was done. Got to say it ran pretty good too.
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
When you pull the head you can tell right away how bad it is by feeling the ridge on the top of the cylinders. If it catches your fingernail it probably needs bored. I have re-ringed engines that were wore out and it will last about a year before it starts using oil again. If you do re-ring it in the truck make sure to take a ridge reamer and cut the ridge off the top, one to help get the pistons out and 2, so the new rings won't come up and catch on the ridge and break. .006 wear is usually the limit for re-ringing. On a inline six, usually the front cylinder is the worst, it runs cooler since it's near the waterpump and the cooler cylinder wears faster.
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