Driver side Exhaust Manifold
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Driver side Exhaust Manifold
Hey Guys,
Over the weekend I was going to attempt to replace my passenger side Exhaust Manifold (Cracked in half) by myself after soaking the bolts in PB blaster for a few days. Ran into some frustration when I couldn't get the wheel liner off to access the manifold. Of the bolts I could reach from the top, I was able to turn them all out with some ease (3 i could reach). Called a local exhaust shop and worked out a deal for $120 for the base install and $20 for each broken bolt that happens.
Just got off the phone with them and they claimed that 4 bolts broke during the process. I don't know which ones yet. They're giving me the bolts back (per request) so I'll see how they broke.
Anyway, I'm still kind of interested in replacing the Drivers side myself. The exhaust guy said it was leaking as well but it doesn't have a crack. I'm wondering if I run into the same wheel liner problem on the Drivers side, will I have enough space to work from the underside and topside of the truck if necessary? Anyone ever done that? Any advice is appreciated!
1992 F150 5.0 V8 btw
Over the weekend I was going to attempt to replace my passenger side Exhaust Manifold (Cracked in half) by myself after soaking the bolts in PB blaster for a few days. Ran into some frustration when I couldn't get the wheel liner off to access the manifold. Of the bolts I could reach from the top, I was able to turn them all out with some ease (3 i could reach). Called a local exhaust shop and worked out a deal for $120 for the base install and $20 for each broken bolt that happens.
Just got off the phone with them and they claimed that 4 bolts broke during the process. I don't know which ones yet. They're giving me the bolts back (per request) so I'll see how they broke.
Anyway, I'm still kind of interested in replacing the Drivers side myself. The exhaust guy said it was leaking as well but it doesn't have a crack. I'm wondering if I run into the same wheel liner problem on the Drivers side, will I have enough space to work from the underside and topside of the truck if necessary? Anyone ever done that? Any advice is appreciated!
1992 F150 5.0 V8 btw
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,970
Likes: 596
From: Greater Austin, Texas
I don't understand taking the inner fender off. There is plenty of room IMO to access the bolts. I have changed both sides of a 302 more than once and did not have to do that.
You cannot really get any penetrating oil on these due to the design, but I personally have never had a bolt break off on a Windsor. You may find it easier to get them out if you warm the motor up completely before you break them loose.
You cannot really get any penetrating oil on these due to the design, but I personally have never had a bolt break off on a Windsor. You may find it easier to get them out if you warm the motor up completely before you break them loose.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Ditto, did a header install on my '89. No issue getting to the bolts, other then the rear ones which are down under the cowl a bit and harder to reach.
I agree, never really seen a broken bolt on a SBF manifold. The holes are blind, so no rust can get to them. Only if they were rusted/damaged/over tightened at some time should they break. Luck of the draw I suppose.
I agree some heat might help. but you have to watch, the manifold will swell with heat and pull on the bolts tighter then when cold. A quick shot of a torch on the bolt head, let cool slightly then give it a gentle tug. Lots of PB blaster might help also, previous to working on it. Don't use impact or large wrench. They are only 3/8" bolts, so the torque is only 20-30 ft lbs.
I agree, never really seen a broken bolt on a SBF manifold. The holes are blind, so no rust can get to them. Only if they were rusted/damaged/over tightened at some time should they break. Luck of the draw I suppose.
I agree some heat might help. but you have to watch, the manifold will swell with heat and pull on the bolts tighter then when cold. A quick shot of a torch on the bolt head, let cool slightly then give it a gentle tug. Lots of PB blaster might help also, previous to working on it. Don't use impact or large wrench. They are only 3/8" bolts, so the torque is only 20-30 ft lbs.
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Freshman User
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Appreciate the confidence guys! I don't have access to a lift so I'm working laying on my back or laying on the engine. The Passenger side was a fairly tight fit but the drivers side looks more spacious. I've always left exhaust work to the pros.
It was a pretty big crap shoot with lubricating the 4 most inner bolts, but I definitely soaked the 4 outside ones.
It was a pretty big crap shoot with lubricating the 4 most inner bolts, but I definitely soaked the 4 outside ones.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,789
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From: Kentucky
Take the front wheels off so you can get a straight shot at the exhaust manifold bolts between the wheel well liner and frame. Use a long extension and a swivel socket. Works like a charm for the hard to reach bolts without getting under the truck.
I use the heat cycle and PB Blaster method most of the time to remove those bolts. Some swear by using an impact gun to shock them loose, but I have not resorted to that method personally.
I use the heat cycle and PB Blaster method most of the time to remove those bolts. Some swear by using an impact gun to shock them loose, but I have not resorted to that method personally.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
Take the front wheels off so you can get a straight shot at the exhaust manifold bolts between the wheel well liner and frame. Use a long extension and a swivel socket. Works like a charm for the hard to reach bolts without getting under the truck.
I use the heat cycle and PB Blaster method most of the time to remove those bolts. Some swear by using an impact gun to shock them loose, but I have not resorted to that method personally.
I use the heat cycle and PB Blaster method most of the time to remove those bolts. Some swear by using an impact gun to shock them loose, but I have not resorted to that method personally.
I also agree on removing the wheels. It makes removing the wheel well liner the easiest.
And as far as them coming loose, ughhh!! I used PB Blaster, Kroil, a torch AND also let the truck idle while I was using the impact.
I have a thread on this, so if you like, do a search for it. By far, the passenger side was the most difficult. The 1st bolt was snapped clean off from the PO and I wasn't happy. The manifold was cracked 3/4 around the 2nd and 3rd cylinder.
I also found the y-pipe had a crack right where the one side tightened up to the passenger side manifold.
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So it turns out that they didn't actually break any bolts. 4 bolts were "harder to get out" than the others. I asked how it was more difficult and they said it was because they had to heat them with a torch to get them to turn... $80 to get a torch pointed at 4 bolts 
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Lead Driver
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From: Merchantville, NJ 08109
Easiest way to replace the exhaust is to simply remove the plastic inner fender! You can even drop it down onto the tire- but full removal is pretty painless, and gives you great access... I did both of mine that way a few months back...
Scott
Scott
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Yeah. I'd say $200 was worth the stress and headache of doing it myself.
My plastic wheel liner bolts and screws are just a wreck. Most of them are frozen or stripped. I had a harder time loosening those than I did with the actual manifold bolts... I ordered the Drivers Side parts and shouldn't have too tough of a time this time with the additional space.
My plastic wheel liner bolts and screws are just a wreck. Most of them are frozen or stripped. I had a harder time loosening those than I did with the actual manifold bolts... I ordered the Drivers Side parts and shouldn't have too tough of a time this time with the additional space.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Penndel, PA
Ugh, I broke one off one time on a 92 with a 302 during a head gasket operation. Broke off nearly flush. Luckily my dad is a machinist. Took a bit of time on a milling machine but he was able to "cut" out the offending bolt.
I was rather amused when he was done machining and grabbed the bolt threads still in the hole and pulled them out with pliers. Came out like a coil spring
I was rather amused when he was done machining and grabbed the bolt threads still in the hole and pulled them out with pliers. Came out like a coil spring
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
I just paid slightly less than $400 to have both of my exhaust manifolds replaced. It was worth it to me. Too old to be doing that type of work.
Yeah. I'd say $200 was worth the stress and headache of doing it myself.
My plastic wheel liner bolts and screws are just a wreck. Most of them are frozen or stripped. I had a harder time loosening those than I did with the actual manifold bolts... I ordered the Drivers Side parts and shouldn't have too tough of a time this time with the additional space.
My plastic wheel liner bolts and screws are just a wreck. Most of them are frozen or stripped. I had a harder time loosening those than I did with the actual manifold bolts... I ordered the Drivers Side parts and shouldn't have too tough of a time this time with the additional space.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
Yes sir, this was total parts plus labor. No bolts broke though. They warned me that it would be extra if any bolts broke. I thought it was a fair price. I think the total was $399.33.
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