Truck 2003 F-250 5.4 XLT

Codes P1151 & 1152. Just barely started to sip a little coolant.
Intake manifold gasket leak??

Replaced the MAF a while back and that helped with starting and idling, about a 1-2 months before.

Its been a pretty cold winter up north for us & it started right after the coldest part of winter. Thinking it might of been a gasket about to go & the cold finished it off?

Any pointers would be helpful.
Also I am pretty good with a wrench, just debating the time & hassle while living in an apartment complex to do it myself if that's what it is. A ford dealership nearby wanted 650ish $ !! At that price I will happily do it myself.
Edit- Found a local shop that quoted 425$
Edit 2- So at those prices, I'm just going to do this myself & take my time at the In-laws house. So can someone please point me towards any links
for the 5.4 Intake Manifold replacement? Or please give me a short list of any steps.
Edit 3- Ordered a Haynes manual for 20$.

Will be replacing coolant thermostat & lines while it drained.
Plugs replaced?

 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p1151-ford


What makes you think it's a bad intake gasket? Did you do a pressure test on the coolant system? did you find coolant in your oil or oil in your coolant? is you oil milky?

P1151 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2

 

Is it at all unusual to get a both a Lean and Rich code on the same bank?

 

The fact that my coolant overflow has started to drop a little. Oil cap was slightly milky, but that could be the condensation for us finally getting a little warmer.

 

No, not really say he has slight donut gasket leak at the bottom of his header pipe, he'd suck air causing o2 #1 to register lean but the pcm tries to adjust by sending more fuel thats where o2 is reading rich. That's just one scenario, he could have bad wire / connector, bad sensor, numerous things.

 

maybe your TStat is sticking a little and you're over flowing? I myself wouldn't pull it apart until a pressure test was done.

 

That doesn't really make sense to me because the overflow has been at the same level since buying the truck used. Its only started to drop a little recently.

At this point I think I'm just going to cave in a pay for a diagnosis charge only & go from their. They wanted 117$ Going to try calling the other dealer at the other side of town for a price. Thought it was usually right at around 100$

 

You buy a used truck. The truck is 14 years old. If you don't have maintenance records on the truck, you really don't know if it's ever been serviced properly, and because the fluid level hasn't dropped til now (and you're saying very little),"it doesn't make sense to you?"
It could be a leak in the intake, the head, the egr, it could be a sticking T-stat, or if it's using the 50/50 mix, it could be that the water is just evaporating. How long have you owned it? How many mile does it have? How many miles have you put on it since you bought it? See, there's a lot of variables that have to be considered before you just start tearing into the engine.

Yes your best bet is to take it to a shop for diagnostics, if you don't know how or can't. Ford dealers in my area labor rates are between $100 - $120hr. Most neighborhood shops will charge anywhere from $75 - $90hr. Some shops will eat the diagnostic charge if you let them fix it afterwards. Good luck to you, my 2003 F350 4x4 5.4L is running beautifully at the moment, but I have 135K on the clock and it may develop the same problem, the PO didn't do maintenance so things are catching up to the age of the truck now. Let us know what you find out.

 

Unless there's something else that you can identify specifically, contradictory codes like that are usually due the sensor being flaky.

 

I meant in relationship to the code.

Trust me I know things break.
I bought the truck with 170K on the clock. Knowing that if maintained properly the engines have the potential of going well past 300K. Usually people start dropping tyranny's at 300K, but that being said they are usually loaded at or near purchase.

Purchased used, he had previous maintenance records on it, for bigger jobs. I used a creeper & looked everything over underneath. After purchased, I changed all fluids except coolant. (plan on doing that after this winter.) Replaced my carrier bearing, fun job, sounded like a gun going off when it finally released the bearing. Lived on a really bad wash boarded road & my rear e-brake pulled through, disabled that & will replace later. Only other issue so far was a seized caliber, so I replaced both calipers & lines. Otherwise I love the truck.

Might be my aftermarket MAF sensor that I replaced a while back with a knockoff. In the past I've always had good luck with aftermarket MAF's put maybe my lucks just run out.