Pinion Nut
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Well you don't say on what your working on those have a high torque on them I had to use a cheater bar on my 3/4" breaker bar dana 60 rear pinon nut.
The TQ is like on Dana 60 torque spec on the pinion nut is 250 to 270 ft. lbs
Do a search for your axle type 44 or a 60 dana
Orich
The TQ is like on Dana 60 torque spec on the pinion nut is 250 to 270 ft. lbs
Do a search for your axle type 44 or a 60 dana
Orich
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 753
Likes: 133
From: Phoenix
What are you doing with the diff? If you are replacing the pinion seal, make sure you mark the nut in relation to the shaft so you can re-torque the nut without changing the preset on the pinion bearing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 31
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Got the nut off, and now the yoke won't come off! It's been soaking on PB blaster and already busted a 2 finger pulled, this thing is not budging. What's the next step, pull the assembly??
Thanks
Thanks
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Brett Foote
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Removing the 3rd member won't gain you anything --no access to the companion flange from the back.
It'll have to come off from the front. You'll need a stronger puller if it's on tight enough to break the puller you had.
It'll have to come off from the front. You'll need a stronger puller if it's on tight enough to break the puller you had.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
Likes: 14
From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
Use the BFH and alternate your hits. Hit the yoke on one side then the other. Pretend that it's Hillery related, and you're in Bengozi, when you hit it. I found that a 50/50 mix of automatic trans fluid and acetone makes a better rust buster.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 376
Attach a puller to it and crank until the puller is real tight. Then give it sharp taps on each side. I prefer a smallish hammer (just over a pound). Overnight soak with some type of bond breaker will help... along with some patience.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 306
From: Kenner,La.
Companion flange
In addition to the previous posts add this. First thread the nut back on where it is flush with the end of the shaft, tighten the good quality puller as much as you can then strike the head of the puller bolt and try to tighten the bolt and alternate. Use safety glasses of course and heavy gloves. High quality puller bolts have a rounded head that can take some hard hits.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,209
Likes: 12
From: Black Hills of SD
Somewhere I have a 65 truck service manual that outlines how to put a used 9 inch back together. Bearing preload is the critical adjustment. It's less on used bearings if I remember correctly. Indexing everything is ok but you'll likely just be putting it back too loose. I never liked the crush sleeve design and always switched to a shim set up on new ones, like a Dana uses.
Bearing preload is set without the seal and measured with an inch/pound torque wrench on how much torque to turn the pinion. Then you index mark the nut so you get it back in the same place after you install the seal. It can only be done accurately with the pinion carrier out of the differential. Did I do this in my shop when replacing the seal? Not usually but then we are getting into the "feel" for tightening it right, hard to explain that. But 9 out of 10 times the seal was leaking, the bearings were worn and sloppy too so it was pretty much a punt to replace just the seal and leave other worn out stuff to soldier on.
Bearing preload is set without the seal and measured with an inch/pound torque wrench on how much torque to turn the pinion. Then you index mark the nut so you get it back in the same place after you install the seal. It can only be done accurately with the pinion carrier out of the differential. Did I do this in my shop when replacing the seal? Not usually but then we are getting into the "feel" for tightening it right, hard to explain that. But 9 out of 10 times the seal was leaking, the bearings were worn and sloppy too so it was pretty much a punt to replace just the seal and leave other worn out stuff to soldier on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Usually a couple "taps" with my 1/2" impact was about right for putting a pinion nut back on. As long as you redimpled the locking portion and a touch of silicone on the nut so it doesn't seep.
Those "taps" didn't crush the sleeve anymore so it didn't affect bearing preload. Just tight enough to stay tight.
Those "taps" didn't crush the sleeve anymore so it didn't affect bearing preload. Just tight enough to stay tight.