Need opinion on the pic. Looks to me like it's leaking under the dash, the leak seems small now but how long before I should replace the Hydro-Boost?

Thanks
Ed

 

Mine leaked slowly into cab. There was a moaning noise as well when turning. Got worse day by day. Replaced with cheap aftermarket one. (Not recommended) no issues yet

 

Well if I had to trade a stained carpet, or being able to steer and brake...............Guess I would sidestep both and fix it!!

Denny (Clean rig)

 

Thanks guys, I have ordered my new Hydro-Boost & new Master Cylinder just in case, pricey but its got to be fixed. I am thinking about doing a write up since I could not find one anywhere. Damn, there goes the budget!!!!!!
Ed

 

Yea a write up would help a lot of people. I never found one either. I made a mess on my truck and ground.

 

F250_(Pete) just replaced his **** same thing. Mines' leaking as well. On rockauto, not sure why they show a "drum" looking boost since mine looks to be a valve/ram type unit. Booster n M.C. around 200.00std

 

It would be greatly appreciated if you were able to do a write up. I know how much time and effort goes int getting one done correctly with all of the required information, but it will serve as a guide for years to come.

Either way, let us know how it goes.

 

Hi Sous, I am waiting on Autonation Whitebear Lake to ship. I will do a write-up on the installation but not a nice video like you did.....editing can be a pain, no time.
Ed

 

its actually very simple.
I would replace the 2 pressure lines.
I got both locally for about 60 bucks.
IIRC, the booster was 180, and a 140 dollar core.
and while youre there, and if the budget allows, changing the steering pump
would not be fround upon.
since you are gonna have the PS,PB system opened up, makes sense to do it all at once.

 

Simple is good, I like that. It will be my first time. For now I am only going to change out the Hydro-Boost and Master Cylinder and bleed both systems.
By the way, nice group of vehicles you have there.
Ed

 

First off, the brake system does not need to get opened up at all (unless you are replacing the master cylinder at the same time). The loss from removing the PS lines is minimal... like only 1-2 ounces. Obviously, if you're replacing the PS lines, there will be more fluid loss.

I briefly considered doing a write-up, but found it straight forward and simple enough to not be able to justify the time. However, since there is more interest in the process, I've put together my notes and linked (below) the PDF. I'll admit it WAS rather difficult to find the details I wanted for pre-job preparation, so perhaps my notes can help someone.


Review the PDF and please let me know if there are any necessary corrections/additions.

 

I had the high pressure line replaced the other day. I was told there is a lazy way to install it which will let it rub on something and eventually cause a problem.

 

Besides leaking, what are the other symptoms these need replacing? i.e. noise, performance/feel etc.

 

I only accidentally noticed a leak on mine right before it started dripping. From what I've seen others post and report, when the leak is really bad, you get reduced and erratic steering and braking, and as you lose too much PS fluid, the pump will obviously start to whine more.

BTW... I posted my write-up in PDF format in my previous post above.

 

F250, Great Job on the write up!!! Your prior experience is invaluable. I really liked your disclaimer. If I may sir I would like to incorporate some of your write up when I do mine.
Good job reps sent.
Ed