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Hello. I have a problem with my B2 in which that when I come to a stop and press in the clutch it will idle down and stall. I replaced the Idle Air Control module at the top middle of the engine ($50 @ NAPA) and it helped some but it still happens about 30% of the time and I either restart it or put it in 3rd and compression start it. It is also kinda odd that it happens more when I am slowing down (braking)? I wonder if it has something to do with the gas in the tank moving forward? just a guess??
I am going to replace the sparkplugs with Autolite AP765's tomorrow and probably get a code reader. Maybe it's a sensor or something? I just registered this truck after I replaced the clutch a month ago. Do you think it could be that I need to bleed the clutch better? I'll try that also. Anyways, thanks ahead for any help you guys have.
Code 41 C=continuous: HEGO (HO2S) Sensor signal out of range/ Always lean.
Code 77 R=running: Operator error during Dynamic Response Test/ Wide Open Throttle not sensed.
ok. so I'm guessing I need to replace my O2 (oxygen) sensor on the exhaust . And, I probably messed with the code reader while it was in the middle of testing. Actually I read the codes twice and I messed up the first time probably. My reader has a memory and the 77 was just in there.
ps. I got the INNOVA Ford code reader from Shucks for $35 and I love it! FYI.
Someone please tell me just to go get a O2 sensor and put me out of my misery . heheh. thanks again guys!!!!!!!!!!!
It might just need a new O2 sensor. There are, however, other things that can set a code 41. Low fuel pressure, broken wire/loose connection between the PCM and O2 sensor, problem with the MAP sensor or IAT sensor, vacuum leak (maybe in the brake booster?).
As for the code 77, does your instruction book mention the "goose" test during KOER?
Last edited by mrshorty; Aug 28, 2003 at 05:59 PM.
man thats weird i have had the same problem but reverse when id throw in the clutch and stop my rpm's shot up to about 3 or higher .. . i changed the ideler moter and it helped some checked for vac leaks and i diddent hane any. still wonderen what caused it ..but ..im fixing the problem .... its getten some v-8 ...lol
WEll. I ordered a O2 sensor. I went below to check the old one, it is the 16" long one and when I touched it's rusty self it broke off hardcore . This truck came from Ohio and it's soooo rusty its scary.
Anyways. I'll install and write again tomorrow....
I got one question. Is the Brake booster fixable?
or do I have to buy a complete new one. When I press the brakes it's not completely hard but not as easy as my Tbird to press. It stops and all that but just stiffer than I think it needs to be.
Also. If I were to buy a new one should I get the basic brake booster (w/o mastercylinder) or the one with the complete longer metal inlet piece (mastercylinder) below the fluid reservoir. I'd rather buy the cheaper one or find a way to fix my OEM one. I think that it is robbing power from something when I press down the brake pedal??? It messes with the idle even when the vehicle is parked and idling after I press down the brake hard a couple of times in quick succession.
Thanks for the previous suggestions guys. It's helped me much!
Man. my front drivers brake practically locked up about 2 miles from home. Lucky it wasn't farther, Got home and it was smoking!!! Could a brake booster do this? or is it just a rusty caliper, (cause they are rusty). but does this explain the idle going low from the brake booster thing? man. this truck is drainin' the Ends fast......
As for code 77... I gotta read up on the code reader manual still. I just started a new job and have been slammed. will report back asap. peace.
cheack the clutch resivor it maybe leaking fliud cuaseing the clutch to not fully disengage its not the idle part if it idles fine in nuetral and dosent stall when falling from a rev in nuetral